ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I know nothing about Axis', but if the barrel threads are the same then could you use an aftermarket Savage recoil lug on one?
Another budget build: 22 Creedmoor
- Thread starter DJ Fergus
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So tell us about your paint job, if you would! I kind of like it! Great job on the build.
rsbhunter
Well-Known Member
Yeah, like your paint jobs ! I'm building a 6mm Norma Dasher now on a new target action, Krieger barrel, and hopefully a factory 12 F Class stock. Not cheap, but with what I will end up with, will do (for me) what some of the 3-5k custom rigs do, and I'll be into it for about $1400.00 , less optics. I love Savage builds, have 5 plus the new build. I saw something today that I honestly couldn't believe, a tactical rifle, case, magazines,scope, everything......for $39,999.00 ! ! ! Now I don't doubt that it is an incredible piece of engineering marvel, but really? I'll stick with my $300.00 to $500 builds...rsbhunter
You could probably use a standard Savage small shank recoil lug but it wouldn't sit in same place as where the axis recoil lug does. The standard recoil lug would end up being just in front of where the axis lug is because the bottom face of the axis action is slotted for it's lug. But you could pull the original lug from the stock and open up forward of it's opening and bed for the standard Savage lug.
Base coat is kryon fusion ultra flat camo khaki. With additional colors of fusion. Then cleared with krylon colormaster flat clear. Then webbed with Montana cans webbing paint. I do the webbing over the clear because if you clear over the webbing, it will take the textured feel away from the webbing and leave it less rough and grippy. When you do the webbing last it leaves a more rough finish and extra grip. I know rattle can paint jobs are considered amateur, but krylon fusion is pretty dang tough. It's the toughest rattle can paint I have found for stocks when cured for about 12 days. I've tried many types of rattle can paint and I'm staying with the fusion. It is actually as good or tougher than the factory paint on one of my B&C stocks. Paint schemes like this are extremely easy to touch up as well due to it's random pattern. Fusion is has worked really good for me on fiberglass, factory synthetic, & wood stocks. It is not the best on metal. I use two part epoxy paint (2k) on barrel, action or bottom metal.
Don't touch it up?! Leave it weathered AF!
Yeah, I kinda like em roughed up a little.
Respect the rifleman/rifle with wear on it...he might know what he's doin'!
My son's truck/ 4 wheeler / dedicated to abuse rifle that I painted. Just a factory 22" heavy barred axis. I did bed it, stiffen the fore arm with epoxy, and added a bolt knob. Paint has held up on the stock alot better than the factory paint on the bolt knob as you can see it's polished thru to the metal.
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