375 Ruger from Lapua/Peterson/ADG 300 PRC Brass?

[martinakl]

Looking at a short handy rifle in 375 Ruger. Just because...

Rifle: Savage Bear Hunter or Ruger M77 Guide/Alaskan.

I already know people have made 300 PRC from 375 Ruger brass. The 300-375 Ruger and 338-375 Ruger have been around well before the 300 PRC.

Seems like I should be able to do the reverse pretty easy? Neck up and fireform 100 pieces of Lapua/ADG/Petersons during barrel break-in and probably have a life-time supply of brass.

There's one measurement that concerns me (per SAAMI).

• Base to shoulder on 300 PRC brass is: 2.1217"
• Base to shoulder on 375 Ruger brass is: 2.1749"
• Base to shoulder would be short .0532"

 

[Seabeeken]

Neck up to 416 and back down to form a false shoulder might make it work

 

[yorke-1]

I'd just track down some Hornady 375 Ruger brass. Your formed cases are going to finish up a little short in the neck after fire forming and you'll probably split a few in the process. Forming from 8x68s cases would give the proper case length, but a slightly undersized rim that won't work in some actions.

The Hornady 375 Ruger brass is very good quality. Most of the brass used in my 375 Ruger has 7-8 firings with full power loads. If you find 100 pieces of the Hornady brass, you'd have enough brass to keep you shooting for a very long time.

I'll also add that I'm not convinced that the Lapua brass I use in the 300 PRC is any stronger than the Hornady 375 Ruger brass I use in the 338/375 or 375 Ruger. The Lapua PRC brass is still showing pressure signs at the same velocity as PRC brass I formed from 375 Ruger cases.

 

[martinakl]

I'd just track down some Hornady 375 Ruger brass. Your formed cases are going to finish up a little short in the neck after fire forming and you'll probably split a few in the process. Forming from 8x68s cases would give the proper case length, but a slightly undersized rim that won't work in some actions.

The Hornady 375 Ruger brass is very good quality. Most of the brass used in my 375 Ruger has 7-8 firings with full power loads. If you find 100 pieces of the Hornady brass, you'd have enough brass to keep you shooting for a very long time.

I'll also add that I'm not convinced that the Lapua brass I use in the 300 PRC is any stronger than the Hornady 375 Ruger brass I use in the 338/375 or 375 Ruger. The Lapua PRC brass is still showing pressure signs at the same velocity as PRC brass I formed from 375 Ruger cases.

Excellent feedback. Thank you.

 

[Salmonhead]

If you decide to give it a go with 300 PRC brass, I have a pile of ADG.

 

[CHAGA50]

I'd just track down some Hornady 375 Ruger brass. Your formed cases are going to finish up a little short in the neck after fire forming and you'll probably split a few in the process. Forming from 8x68s cases would give the proper case length, but a slightly undersized rim that won't work in some actions.

The Hornady 375 Ruger brass is very good quality. Most of the brass used in my 375 Ruger has 7-8 firings with full power loads. If you find 100 pieces of the Hornady brass, you'd have enough brass to keep you shooting for a very long time.

I'll also add that I'm not convinced that the Lapua brass I use in the 300 PRC is any stronger than the Hornady 375 Ruger brass I use in the 338/375 or 375 Ruger. The Lapua PRC brass is still showing pressure signs at the same velocity as PRC brass I formed from 375 Ruger cases.

How do you like the .338 x 375 RUGER ?
I built mine but have not shot it yet .

 

[yorke-1]

How do you like the .338 x 375 RUGER ?
I built mine but have not shot it yet .

I've had 3 since around 2012 and they've all been great. I've had 22" and 26" rifle barrels, as well as an 18" specialty pistol barrel. I still have and shoot the 18" specialty pistol as often as possible. I put about 600 rounds through each of the rifle barrels before selling them and moving on to other projects.

These days it makes more sense to go with the 33 Nosler in most circumstances. The 338/375 and 33 Nosler are ballistic twins, so whichever has more available brass would be the best choice. A 338/30 Nosler might have a very slight capacity advantage over the 338/375, but not enough to make a difference. They're all in the same performance category as the 330 Dakota and 340 Weatherby, and about 100 fps behind the 338 RUM/Edge/Lapua level chamberings.

 

[CHAGA50]

I've had 3 since around 2012 and they've all been great. I've had 22" and 26" rifle barrels, as well as an 18" specialty pistol barrel. I still have and shoot the 18" specialty pistol as often as possible. I put about 600 rounds through each of the rifle barrels before selling them and moving on to other projects.

These days it makes more sense to go with the 33 Nosler in most circumstances. The 338/375 and 33 Nosler are ballistic twins, so whichever has more available brass would be the best choice. A 338/30 Nosler might have a very slight capacity advantage over the 338/375, but not enough to make a difference. They're all in the same performance category as the 330 Dakota and 340 Weatherby, and about 100 fps behind the 338 RUM/Edge/Lapua level chamberings.

Thank you for the input . Mine has a 34" barrel it's just for 600 yard shots on game .
Do you have load data with 250 , 285 and 300 grain bullets ?