338 RUM problems

Got a look at my barrel today with gunsmith's bore scope. There is some copper fouling, some throat errosion with heat signs that weren't there the last time this barrel was scoped. The rest of the barrel still shows tooling marks, that I thought would have been removed by the tubbs system. Gunsmith told be to try some more lapping with JB bore cleaner. I cleaned the bore thoroughly with Montana extreme copper remover and lapped the bore numerous times. I will go back tomorrow and have another look see with the bore scope. At this point I want a new barrel. This barrel has never shot right and has always copper fouled very badly. I think I would rather have a factory take off than this *** Douglas premium. I am leaning very seriously towards either a Krieger or Mike rock stainless barrel.

I also learned today that the gunsmith used green loctite to secure my muzzle brake. Has anyone ever had any luck getting green loctite to release? If it releases with heat, how much?

I am just a little depressed to think that I have almost shot out a barrel just trying to make it shoot.
 
Got a look at my barrel today with gunsmith's bore scope. There is some copper fouling, some throat errosion with heat signs that weren't there the last time this barrel was scoped. The rest of the barrel still shows tooling marks, that I thought would have been removed by the tubbs system. Gunsmith told be to try some more lapping with JB bore cleaner. I cleaned the bore thoroughly with Montana extreme copper remover and lapped the bore numerous times. I will go back tomorrow and have another look see with the bore scope. At this point I want a new barrel. This barrel has never shot right and has always copper fouled very badly. I think I would rather have a factory take off than this *** Douglas premium. I am leaning very seriously towards either a Krieger or Mike rock stainless barrel.

I also learned today that the gunsmith used green loctite to secure my muzzle brake. Has anyone ever had any luck getting green loctite to release? If it releases with heat, how much?

I am just a little depressed to think that I have almost shot out a barrel just trying to make it shoot.

You know the barrel is bad. If it monkeyed around and shot good or marginal a little bit and then would not shoot for whatever reason, that would drive you crazy. Now you know the barrel is suspect and needs replacing.

My big question is why did the gunsmith not notice this (tooling marks) prior to him chambering the barrel and thus preventing a return for a replacement barrel?

I have had good luck with both K & P as well as Hart in the 338 tubes. The one that I did not particularly like was the Douglas as it was very finnicky and I had to go to Moly to get the barrel to shoot. However, when it was finally tuned, it shot well. Douglas just gave too many problems. I understand your pain.

Chawslton
 
Got another look at the inside of the barrel today after cleaning it very well and lapping it with JB bore cleaner. Still a slight amount of copper in the corner of one land for several inches. Heat checking very evident in the first 5 inches past the throat. Machining marks are still evident in the rest of the barrel. I told my gunsmith that I am very frustrated that this barrel has never performed the way I wanted and that it has copper fouled since day one and nothing I have done has changed that. He told me that if I pick out another barrel, my choice, he will install it for me. I will have to pay for the barrel however.

So who makes a consistantly good barrel in .338? I am thinking of Krieger, Mike Rock or Broughton. Any thoughts? This is a hunting gun and I don't think I want the extra weight of a 27 inch barrel this time nor do I want the extra weight of a #5. I am thinking of a #4 stainless finished at 26".

Am I on the right track?
 
I have had very good luck with Rock 5R barrels. The folks at RockCreek Barrels are first class and their 338 barrels are great. You will find the 5R rifling form ( \_/ ) does not foul as much with high velocity rounds, additionally the cut-rifling process and stress relieving allow you to contour or flute them, something that shouldn't be done to button rifled
barrels. Next, make sure you smith used a floating pilot reamer from Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Guage, they will not give you excessive freebore!
Good Luck
Randy
P.S. try a fluted #5 Rock
 
Last edited:
Thanks!

Anyone have any experience with Broughton barrels? There is another smith around here that builds guns for the best of the west that is using them and has very good luck with them. On their web site, they guareentee 1/2" MOA and state most will shoot 1/4.
 
Thanks!

Anyone have any experience with Broughton barrels? There is another smith around here that builds guns for the best of the west that is using them and has very good luck with them. On their web site, they guareentee 1/2" MOA and state most will shoot 1/4.

Yes. They will work. But, the barrel will only perform to the level of shooter competence.

Chawlston
 
338 ultra mag

I have a Weatherby 338-378 accumark.It loves Reloader 25 and 250 gr nosler partitions.I have shot .25 inch groups with it at 100 yards.I have to totally remove all the copper and powder fouling before every 60 rounds are fired.Its a pain in the but but it turns into a shotgun unless I do.I shot 275 gr swift and 250 gr bt serrias and 300 gr serris smk all shot well.My gun didnt like the factory stuff with 200 gr bullets.I would stick with the partitions 250 gr they are awesome.I can get 3150 out of my rifle.I wish I had a 30: barrel.I like Kriger barrels they are very accurate and reasonable.I think the Weatherby accumark is alot more gun and way more accurate than any remington or winchester I ever shot.I only paid $1000 for each of my 338-378s.I love shooting them .I usually try not to shot out my barrels.I like the sendero alot better in the 338 ultra mag than the regular model 700 remington.Its a shame they quit making them.The 338 ultra is on its way out.I would be suprised if Remington chambers it again next year.I heard they were going to bring out the 338 lapula in the model 700 as a factory chambering.
 
.338!

A floating pilot will not have anyting to do with excessive freebore,I would plan on using a different smith and send him a dummy round with your favorite hunting bullet seated to fit in your magazine so the smith can throat it to your dummy round and you will be a lot better off than you are now,Kreiger and Rock creek will be better than you have,and make sure the smith true's your action and I'm sure you will be happy!
 
dgr416,

Have you looked at your 338-378 barrel with a bore scope? Have you measured your throat errosion to see how it is wearing? I am currious to see if different barrels are showing more/less errosion in these large capacity cartridges. What is the expected barrel life with a quality barrel when shooting max. loads? I don't buy into the idea of down loading a big magnum to make the barrel last longer. If I wanted to shoot the bullet slower, I would use a smaller cartridge. I have also just learned about several local shooters shooting 338 lapua mags that have shot out their barrels in 150 rounds. Is this normal or are we getting some inferior barrel materials?
 
I have heard that all things being equal that more rough bores and throats actually erode sooner than those with the better finishes. It makes sense that barrels with larger pre-existing flaws will erode sooner than those with smaller pre-existing flaws. Some barrel maker or materials guy might want to comment on this.

Chawlston
 
I have a .338 RUM being built right now on a 700 action and a lilja 1 in 10 twist #4 finished at 26 inches and a gentry quiet brake installed. I had the action trued, tubb oversize recoil lug, bedded and floated.

I'll let you know soon, but I have high hopes for the lilja barrel. I need it to be right, I'm hunting a Griz with it in May!
 
any of the barrels you mentioned will probably shoot very well. in terms of accuracy potential,the smith putting the whole thing together is much more important than which barrel you put on it.
 
I am checking my piggy bank to see if I can afford my new barrel right now. The dilema is whether to allow my current smith to install the barrel or pay someone else. My mind still isn't made up. I am leaning towards a Broughton barrel at this point however. I just wish I went with a better grade barrel to begin with. Live and learn, but one thing is for sure, I love my 338, it kills with authority.
 
Well, I ordered a Broughton barrel in a #4 contour stainless that will finish at 26". I have decided that packing a #5 contour in the mountains takes some of the fun out. I sure hope this barrel shoots the way I want. Take it from me, if you need a new barrel, spend the money for a good one.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 17 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top