Kimber Mountain Ascent 6.5CM Help

Kimbers seem to be hit or miss for some reason. I've got a buddy who has one in 308 and it shoots lights out, 0.5" MOA with factory ammo.
 
I have a newer Kimber MA in 280ai. I would not do any recrown or lapping of anything...I would start with trigger, then check the magazine contact on the bottom of the mag well. Those typically are a little tight and mine was as well. If you google kimber montana fixes, this issue pops up but is easily fixed. I also bedded it because I bed every single rifle I own. I did all of this before shooting it for a total of less than 20 bucks. The rifle shot around 1 moa when I first started shooting it.....then I learned the proper way to shoot the ultralights and now it's under 3/8" moa. I really think a lot of the "accuracy issues" with these are with the technique, not the rifle....it was for me anyway. Congrats on your win.
 
I have a newer Kimber MA in 280ai. I would not do any recrown or lapping of anything...I would start with trigger, then check the magazine contact on the bottom of the mag well. Those typically are a little tight and mine was as well. If you google kimber montana fixes, this issue pops up but is easily fixed. I also bedded it because I bed every single rifle I own. I did all of this before shooting it for a total of less than 20 bucks. The rifle shot around 1 moa when I first started shooting it.....then I learned the proper way to shoot the ultralights and now it's under 3/8" moa. I really think a lot of the "accuracy issues" with these are with the technique, not the rifle....it was for me anyway. Congrats on your win.

I agree about the shooters technique. What did you change to facilitate better accuracy with an ultra light gun?
 
Couple of things - first was the off-hand placement. I started putting it with slight down pressure on top of my scope. Not pulling, just putting it on top...it helped with the free recoil as I don't use the muzzle brake. Second thing (and i think this was the biggest difference) was I concentrated on getting into the gun rather than pulling the gun into my shoulder and cheek. One way that worked for me in checking that this was correct was I would lift my cheek off the stock but still keep my eye thru the scope - if my line of sight moved more than a few inches at 200 yards I would adjust the rifle slightly and do the cheek on/cheek off thing until I knew I wasn't putting any sort of angled pressure on the stock. Once I figured this stuff out (off hand on top, firm butt contact but don't pull hard into your shoulder, and a lighter cheek weld with no angular pressure) my groups really tightened up. And the more I practiced this, the faster I became at doing it the first time every time. If I can't get comfortable in other positions with my offhand on the scope, I just grab the stock to hold for recoil. I'm in no way any sort of precision shooter (average at best), but that's the stuff that made a big difference for me.
 
Couple of things - first was the off-hand placement. I started putting it with slight down pressure on top of my scope. Not pulling, just putting it on top...it helped with the free recoil as I don't use the muzzle brake. Second thing (and i think this was the biggest difference) was I concentrated on getting into the gun rather than pulling the gun into my shoulder and cheek. One way that worked for me in checking that this was correct was I would lift my cheek off the stock but still keep my eye thru the scope - if my line of sight moved more than a few inches at 200 yards I would adjust the rifle slightly and do the cheek on/cheek off thing until I knew I wasn't putting any sort of angled pressure on the stock. Once I figured this stuff out (off hand on top, firm butt contact but don't pull hard into your shoulder, and a lighter cheek weld with no angular pressure) my groups really tightened up. And the more I practiced this, the faster I became at doing it the first time every time. If I can't get comfortable in other positions with my offhand on the scope, I just grab the stock to hold for recoil. I'm in no way any sort of precision shooter (average at best), but that's the stuff that made a big difference for me.

So you preload your bipods. I've found that too, by uncoiling my back and pushing into the gun, keeps a person much more consistent. I've actually bent a set of champion bipods from preloading them, lol. Got a little carried away
 
I don't actually use a bipod. I use my pack since I hunt that way - so i practice the same way. I think it would be same principal either way, I wonder if POI would change at all with/without bipod
 
I don't actually use a bipod. I use my pack since I hunt that way - so i practice the same way. I think it would be same principal either way, I wonder if POI would change at all with/without bipod

As long as the stock is free floated it shouldn't
 
Different pressure point on the stock and the way the rifle recoils. You may not notice that much of a difference at close ranges, but at long range there will be a difference. Gunwerks has a YouTube video describing the difference of POI.
 
Different pressure point on the stock and the way the rifle recoils. You may not notice that much of a difference at close ranges, but at long range there will be a difference. Gunwerks has a YouTube video describing the difference of POI.

So still a difference in shooting technique. I will have to take a pack and do some experimenting. I pretty much always use bipods if I'm prone
 
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