First reloader setup to last

K

kgarrett

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Joined
May 22, 2022
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230
Location
Canada
Good morning,

I have decided to get into reloading and am looking to get equipment that will last me for life. My goal is to produce high quality ammo for hunting and long-distance shooting practice. I plan to reload for bolt actions only in a limited number of calibers. 6.5 CM, 6.5 PRC, 300 PRC +\- 243 or 223.

What do you think of something like the intermediate setup from this article? https://backfire.tv/reloading-kit/

Any additions/changes/substitutions? My BIL handloads but I've decided he lives too far away for me to share his setup. For what it's worth, I'm not looking for the the cheapest setup or the 'best' setup but am willing to pay a bit more to get good equipment that will last for life. In vehicle terms, I am looking for a Toyota/ford/Chevy/ram not a BMW or Mercedes.
 
precisionshooter said:
You have to specify what is your goal with the ammunition. If you are looking for hunting vs Benchrest grade of accuracy.

In general, I would say, use Redding as your central manufacturer. They make very good products.
Click to expand...
Goal is for hunting. Practicing at the range is to make me a better rifleman for hunting (and because it's enjoyable). I do not compete and do not plan to unless NRL hunter takes off here in Canada. Might shoot in some club 'F Class' or 'PRS' style casual matches for the training opportunity but don't care about being competitive, only becoming a better shooter.
 
This is on sale right now https://www.cabelas.ca/product/102285/lyman-ultimate-reloading-system, but I like the idea of a sonic cleaner for brass I can also use for firearms parts (I do have pistols and semi autos) as well as a digital powder trickler like the Hornady Auto Charge or RCBS charge master.

To some extent, my choices will be based on what local gun shops have in stock. Cabelas and Amazon.ca will be used as necessary but I would prefer to support local Canadian or online dealers who actually advocate for firearms rights here in Canada. I don't give money to the firearms owners suck and we hate you crowd when I can avoid it.
 
Okay. I am going to go all hunting. If you want to go PRS or F-Class, you don't need a Ferrari but you DO need a BMW. If I may add, a really nice one. Here are my suggestions:

Press: Go with a single stage Redding Big Boss II press. Stay away from Arbor press and Whidden/LE Wilson dies. They are very nice and dead accurate, but it is simply not needed.
Dies: Redding type S dies, both for resizing and seating. Do not go neck sizing way. Full length sizing is what I would strongly recommend.
Powder measure: Bite the bullet and but a A&D FX 120i
Trickler: you can get a Redding manual trickler.
Decapping stuff: I like to remove the spent primer in a different setup. Go with the cheapest single stage press you can find. I found my Lee 35$ press. Buy any decapping die. A very nice one is available from Redding. Buy lots of replacement pins.
Cleaning: Go for a Frankford Arsenal rotary tumbler. The big one with steel pins. Corn cob is dusty.
Funnel: I like to buy one and cry once. Go with Area 419 funnel with interchangeable drops. They are expensive, but well worth the damage to wallet in my opinion.
Supplies: Again Redding imperial wax, such and such.
Trimming: This one is tricky. If you are looking for volume and crazy accuracy, I would recommend Giraud case trimmer. If you are looking for crazy accuracy, go with LE Wilson case trimmer. If you are going with; hmm, that is pretty accurate, go with Redding.
Measuring stuff: Mitutoyo or Starrett, all the way. Buy once, cry quite some amount, but once.
Annealing: Not needed, but if you want to, go with AMP annealing. Again, buy once, cry a pretty good amount, but once.
Storage: MTM case
Loading block: Area 419 makes really nice loading blocks. They are completely unnecessary. You will do just fine with MTM loading blocks. But it is plastic.
MOST IMPORTANT: Loading Manual: Get one. Speer makes a nice one. Lyman is always there. You can use something that you find on a manufacturer website. But whatever you do, please please please do not use load information found on a random forum.
 
Last edited:
kgarrett said:
This is on sale right now https://www.cabelas.ca/product/102285/lyman-ultimate-reloading-system, but I like the idea of a sonic cleaner for brass I can also use for firearms parts (I do have pistols and semi autos) as well as a digital powder trickler like the Hornady Auto Charge or RCBS charge master.
Click to expand...
Sonic cleaner is cool. But in my opinion (based on using both), if you could have only one cleaner, get the steel pins. If you want sonic cleaner, get an Elmasonic. Again, expensive enough to almost blow a gasket, but they are the best of the best, industrial grade and will last till the time the steel tank ruptures. Also, their cleaning solutions are way better than the typical dish soap, citric acid stuff they gets rehashed time and again.
 
I've been reloading since 1980 and only 2 items from way back that remain in use today. My rock chucker, and an MTM case guard reloading tray (was red but now faded orange). I weighed charges on a 505 balance scale for bolt action and used a powder throw for speed powder charging with pistol and AR15 cartridges exclusively till the RCBS Chargemaster came out about 10yrs ago. Wow that speeded up my process immensely! so much so I invested in a V3 auto trickler and then most recently I upgraded to the Super Trickler.
I have many of the items listed on the top tiers of his preferred items and I can't knock any of the items he selected as they are all good choices but Forster and even the custom micrometer hornady bushing dies make good ammo.
I will knock one item on the list due to your lifelong use requirement and that's a hand primer. Trust me when i say you don't want one. I've worn out 3 and the 4th one wore me out. I'm 65 and arthritis in my hands made me toss the hand primer. Get something like the RCBS bench prime. Your hands will thank you for it some day.
 
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I is a pipeline dream to finish with what you start with!! There is that next new idea that sits on the horizon of ingenuity, of yourself and others.
I have my original Hornady press, also added a lock and load version, moved to a Redding T25 Turret, still use them all, had various primer seaters, use the benchtop RCBS unit now, Use Redding powder measures, Redding dies, still use my first case lube tray, use Redding lube,
Some things stay some go. Enjoy the journey.
 
Rock Chucker will fill needs of most low volume reloaders. Redding Type S Competition dies are pricey, but buy once and cry once. Depending on how anal you are, you can spend a fortune on scales, Annealers and other cool tools. Get started and then decide where you want to take it. We love spending other people's money. Read, read, and measure, measure again. The most used items in my reloading room are my manuals and micrometer.
 
I concur with the Rock Chucker. I started reloading a year ago, and I suspect it will be the only thing I started with that will still be in use in another year.😂 I don't know enough about them to recommend anything specific, but I DEFINITELY recommend you start with an electronic powder thrower and good digital scale! I started with scoops and a trickler, now I'm on a Lee deluxe perfect powder measure and trickler, but I wish I'd just bought a Chargemaster or such.
 
precisionshooter said:
Okay. I am going to go all hunting. If you want to go PRS or F-Class, you don't need a Ferrari but you DO need a BMW. If I may add, a really nice one. Here are my suggestions:

Press: Go with a single stage Redding Big Boss II press. Stay away from Arbor press and Whidden/LE Wilson dies. They are very nice and dead accurate, but it is simply not needed.
Dies: Redding type S dies, both for resizing and seating. Do not go neck sizing way. Full length sizing is what I would strongly recommend.
Powder measure: Bite the bullet and but a A&D FX 120i
Trickler: you can get a Redding manual trickler.
Decapping stuff: I like to remove the spent primer in a different setup. Go with the cheapest single stage press you can find. I found my Lee 35$ press. Buy any decapping die. A very nice one is available from Redding. Buy lots of replacement pins.
Cleaning: Go for a Frankford Arsenal rotary tumbler. The big one with steel pins. Corn cob is dusty.
Funnel: I like to buy one and cry once. Go with Area 419 funnel with interchangeable drops. They are expensive, but well worth the damage to wallet in my opinion.
Supplies: Again Redding imperial wax, such and such.
Trimming: This one is tricky. If you are looking for volume and crazy accuracy, I would recommend Giraud case trimmer. If you are looking for crazy accuracy, go with LE Wilson case trimmer. If you are going with; hmm, that is pretty accurate, go with Redding.
Measuring stuff: Mitutoyo or Starrett, all the way. Buy once, cry quite some amount, but once.
Annealing: Not needed, but if you want to, go with AMP annealing. Again, buy once, cry a pretty good amount, but once.
Storage: MTM case
Loading block: Area 419 makes really nice loading blocks. They are completely unnecessary. You will do just fine with MTM loading blocks. But it is plastic.
MOST IMPORTANT: Loading Manual: Get one. Speer makes a nice one. Lyman is always there. You can use something that you find on a manufacturer website. But whatever you do, please please please do not use load information found on a random forum.
Click to expand...
Good list. I would go with Forster dies. I like them better than Redding and they are cheaper. They also have a really neat case trimmer that will turn necks as well as trim them. Called their original Trimmer.
 
Co-Ax press ( use for priming too)
Lee 4 set dies
AMP
Henderson trimmer
Chargemaster 1500 or FX120 V4 pwdr dispenser
Calipers 2x
Hornady comparator set for brass and bullets
several reloading manuals ( Lee, Nosler, Lyman)
Lee Hand held chamfer/debur
Frankford arsenal SS media tumbler (lrg)
 
Yep.....Toyota /Chevy/BMW....(buy more warranty).....
I've a newer Mec Metalic reloader...
No problems at all....rcbs and Redding dies all work fine on it....
 

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