A question about anealing?
- Thread starter WildBillG
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Don A Parsons
Well-Known Member
And find a stainless steel brush to knock out the carbon and annealing residue to...
Keep the expanded ball high up in the die and carbon powder dip... You'll end up will nill for run-out if you do your part...
Cheers from the North
Keep the expanded ball high up in the die and carbon powder dip... You'll end up will nill for run-out if you do your part...
Cheers from the North
What colors does the brass go through as we heat it. Dark plum preffered I am reading what is before that and after.
With the help of all here I have learned that time will be critical with my Aneal Eez machine. I imagine the larger the case the more the time needed to aneal. I asked before but never got an answer how much more time will I need if I can only get 650 Templac.
With the help of all here I have learned that time will be critical with my Aneal Eez machine. I imagine the larger the case the more the time needed to aneal. I asked before but never got an answer how much more time will I need if I can only get 650 Templac.
All brass will require slightly different times. What I do is save brass I was going throw out and use it to set up the next run in that caliber and adjust the speed comes out correctly a good starting point is 7 or 8 sec
No idea on color change for brass, just know the anneal table says dark plum. As for tempilaq, 650f is too low unless you plan to run the machine or SBA long enough to get temp to >800f. That's the tougher part with torches. The time window is very small to anneal properly. Check the amp times. I think they are in tenth of seconds.
bushmotornv
Well-Known Member
I purchased the SBA kit from Ballistic Recreations,and from what I have read,the Lee pot has a pretty crude temp control. I have ordered a PID controller,along with a solid state relay. I'll report when I get it all set up. Seems to me,it's all about time. I downloaded a metronome app for my phone,and it will be about getting a rhythm down. The SBA kit insert covers the entire top of the pot,so that should minimize the risk of splashes.However,safety should be applied as always. Almost all brass produced during WWII was annealed using salt bath,so I believe that debunks the theory about salt being detrimental to the brass case. And,FWIW the standard case insert will hold the Ultra Mag cases just fine. The photo shows a 338RUM case in the standard case holder.
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aushunter1
Well-Known Member
Totally agree & people need to know just working off colour is to inconsistent & to hard to judge by the eye.
I have noticed that different brands of brass will glow a different colour after the same time under the flame which is most likely due to the different thickness but also brass composition, even unpolished brass compared to clean brass shows a different colour for the same time which is why its so important to get a temp indicator like tempelaq.
People who free ball it are really taking their safety into their own hands, Ive seen some horror sights on youtube of people way over heating their brass which will make it far to soft & possibly explode the case in the chamber.
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aushunter1
Well-Known Member
Not sure what source you are getting 940*F from but its incorrect.
The most general consensus out there is 750*F to 800*F is the mark you need to be & its also about time at that temp as well.
The longer & hotter the brass neck/shoulder gets residual heat will start to travel to towards the case head which is what you don't want.
What are the specifics?
Brass is annealed by heating it to a certain temperature for a certain amount of time. The higher the annealing temperature, the shorter the time required to anneal. The grain structure of the brass begins to change - indicating the start of annealing - at just under 500 degrees Fahrenheit. At 600 degrees F, brass will anneal in one hour. At 800 degrees F, brass will take only a few seconds to anneal.
Only the case necks should be annealed. If the case body or head is allowed to overheat, the case will be completely and irrevocably ruined for reloading. Also, no portion of the case should ever be allowed to reach 950 degrees F. At this temperature, over-annealing will occur, rendering the brass too soft and weak to reload.
As you can see, annealing is a balancing act - the neck must be heated (but not overheated) to the appropriate temperature for the appropriate time, while ensuring that the rest of the case does not reach a temperature that will cause it to soften as well. In addition, your process needs to be very consistent from case-to-case in order to preserve accuracy.
http://www.massreloading.com/annealing.html
People have been accepting the old practice of torch tip into a pan of water for so long they think 800f for 5-8 seconds isn't enough. Heat transfer thru a ~.015" neck doesn't take long. Also, too much is made of temp control for SBA. If you are +/- 20c, that is plenty close and much more accurate than a flame. Be interesting to see what the temp range a flame has.
@aushunter1 In the BR video Garry states that annelling is done in a temp of 500-550 C in 5 seconds. 500 C is 932 F. This is where I got this from. Also here
http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/?p=2882
The salt Step #2
Not sure if this also applies to sand.
http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/?p=2882
The salt Step #2
Not sure if this also applies to sand.
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Well, I finally tried out my new salt bath annealer. Pot, salt and temp monitor all worked as supposed to. Heated salt to ~500°C. Applied Tempilac as instructed on junk brass. It only took 4 seconds to reach 650F. Did 150 pcs of brass in just a few minutes. Dunked brass in a bucket of water as instructed. Swished them around to remove salt residue.
Biggest pia was segregating them according to box. I keep up with how many times each box has been reloaded. Kept them segregated so they went in the right box. All are on different trays in my jerkey oven drying out right now. When dry they'll go back in the right box.
Brass came out beautiful. Looks like brand new Lapua again!
Biggest pia was segregating them according to box. I keep up with how many times each box has been reloaded. Kept them segregated so they went in the right box. All are on different trays in my jerkey oven drying out right now. When dry they'll go back in the right box.
Brass came out beautiful. Looks like brand new Lapua again!
What temp were you aiming for on the brass? How long did you end up dipping the brass. Just did 150 of wsm and ultra today. Love SBA
I used 650°F Tempilac. Salt bath was kept at ~515°C. I dipped 8 pcs of junk brass and timed the Tempilac color change for each. It was 4 seconds on each piece. Once I got the time duration down I dipped my hunting brass. It's so fast I only dipped one at a time!
Only pia is having to rinse, then dry them. I used my jerky dehydrator and went to do something else for an hour. So far I am well pleased and now feel I have good control of the process.
Only pia is having to rinse, then dry them. I used my jerky dehydrator and went to do something else for an hour. So far I am well pleased and now feel I have good control of the process.
I have had my Anneal Eez for about a week now but have no Tempilac 750. I have been figuring out the time on the wheels and playing with old brass a bit. Finally got brave and did some 280 brass. When it was done the color change mark is about 3/8 of an inch down the case. Did I go to long or is that about right? The machine works great and is fairly simple to get set up.
