Reloading 6.5 Creed Brass???

Autorotate19

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Hi I am about to start reloading for my 6.5 Creedmoor. I was thinking about buying new Lapua brass but I already have a bunch of once fired Hornady brass so Im tempted to just use it. What are your guys experience with the Hornady?

Thanks
 
While I have never been s fan of Hornady brass, the 6.5CM brass is pretty good. I have loads that use both, Lapua for my PRC competition load, and Hornady brass for my hunting load. While the Lapua Brass is more consistent in weight, the Hornady brass has about 1gr additional case capacity then the Lapua and uses LR primers which provides an extra measure of cold weather ignition insurance(although I have not experienced issues with the SR primers in cold temps). I get good accuracy, and ES with both. While the case life isn't bad with the Hornady (6-8), the Lapua is over 10 and still going.

Top photo Hornady brass, Hunting load. Bottom Lapua PRC load

F8B7356B-E362-48EC-9DB4-10749ADABFBF.jpeg
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I think the Lapua 6.5 Creed is a small primer, Hornady is a large primer pocket. Do you have a small or standard firing pin? If you run the Lapua Brass with a standard pin you could run into pressure issues.

Jay
 
I think the Lapua 6.5 Creed is a small primer, Hornady is a large primer pocket. Do you have a small or standard firing pin? If you run the Lapua Brass with a standard pin you could run into pressure issues.

Jay
How does a standard diameter pin cause pressure issues when used with a small primer?
 
I'm using perterson lr primer. @ $36.50/50 in a nice box it is a bargin. I could not run rl 26 in the small primer brass to my satisfaction. I'm running it hard and will start shooting 3-4 times a week as we get ready for some prs and local shoots. I will say that accuracy wise it is very uniform. I have 4 different bullets shooting into 1/2 moa or better in a stock out of the box model 10 savage.
https://petersoncartridge.ecwid.com/Click-the-Image-above-c25406025
 
When I started my load development with the Lapua brass I started a little under my load with Hornady brass. Ended up with the same load for both. 41,7 H 4350 Hornadady 140 ELD MV 2811 ES-14. I thought it would have been different, but not so
 
While I have never been s fan of Hornady brass, the 6.5CM brass is pretty good. I have loads that use both, Lapua for my PRC competition load, and Hornady brass for my hunting load. While the Lapua Brass is more consistent in weight, the Hornady brass has about 1gr additional case capacity then the Lapua and uses LR primers which provides an extra measure of cold weather ignition insurance(although I have not experienced issues with the SR primers in cold temps). I get good accuracy, and ES with both. While the case life isn't bad with the Hornady (6-8), the Lapua is over 10 and still going.

Top photo Hornady brass, Hunting load. Bottom Lapua PRC load

View attachment 89561 View attachment 89562

Are you sure you don't have your references to your pictures reversed? Top group looks smaller than bottom group. Both of course are outstanding. I don't know how the heck you get SDs of 4. I am meticulous in my reloading procedures and rarely get into single digits according to my Pro Chrony. I use the same basically components including the .289 bushing.
 
I have reloaded both the Hornady and Lapua brass. Measured both. Weight variation in Hornady is 3 grains over 20 rounds, Lapua .1 - .2 grains. I've only gotten up to 3 reloads on each, so no info on longevity it seems but for sure those Lapua pockets will last longer. I found that at 42.5gr of H4350 with 130gr VLD Hunting, both have the same POI, even with the different primers they take. It must be an OCW. It is an accurate node too.
 
Are you sure you don't have your references to your pictures reversed? Top group looks smaller than bottom group. Both of course are outstanding. I don't know how the heck you get SDs of 4. I am meticulous in my reloading procedures and rarely get into single digits according to my Pro Chrony. I use the same basically components including the .289 bushing.

No, they are not reversed. Since I tape my targets into a record book, if you look close, you can see a hole center in the group is closed(flattened) from the tape, making the group appear smaller. However, I should give a disclaimer with my group measurements as I just use a ruler/calculator. It's hard to tell about your SD's without understanding the details of your reloading process. Having owned a Pro Chrony, this could be a possible source of high SD's. Mine produced low velocities and I rarely had SD's lower then 10 with mine. I saw a notable improvement in both accuracy of my velocities, and SD's(confirmed on LR targets) when I switched to the Magnetospeed several years ago. I also own a Lab Radar which gives results that closely match the MS.
 
No, they are not reversed. Since I tape my targets into a record book, if you look close, you can see a hole center in the group is closed(flattened) from the tape, making the group appear smaller. However, I should give a disclaimer with my group measurements as I just use a ruler/calculator. It's hard to tell about your SD's without understanding the details of your reloading process. Having owned a Pro Chrony, this could be a possible source of high SD's. Mine produced low velocities and I rarely had SD's lower then 10 with mine. I saw a notable improvement in both accuracy of my velocities, and SD's(confirmed on LR targets) when I switched to the Magnetospeed several years ago. I also own a Lab Radar which gives results that closely match the MS.
Thanks for the feedback. I have been considering that it is my Pro Chrony. I recently bought a Magnetospeed V3 but haven't had a chance to hit the range with it yet. We shall see.
 
Im shooting a Ruger Precision. I would assume it has a normal firing pin. Do you guys think its required that I weight sort the hornady brass? Also does anyone know of any factory ammo that uses lapua brass?
 
Benchrest reloading practices will buy you a little in accuracy with a factory barrel. Common sense reloading will buy you some improvement. The powder burning rate is more important than how much a case weights. You can go thru a 100 cases and pick the 10 lowest weight and the 10 highest weight load them up and shoot across the screens and see how much it really matters. The worst quality brass will still get the job done.
 
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