up comming review; 2 rifles in 6.5 creed

Its ok to use the finer grit on newer barrels but still won't remove all the imperfections and I'd only use the coarser on really worn barrels. Then follow up with a very thorough cleaning.
 
I thought major difference between factory vs custom, is that custom are polished, bore lapped to remove those imperfections, so theoretically JB should perform some of the polishing...
 
You are correct for the most part but there is still no such thing as a perfect barrel, Clay Spencer is top notch and that's as close as you will get.
 
I thought major difference between factory vs custom, is that custom are polished, bore lapped to remove those imperfections, so theoretically JB should perform some of the polishing...

Right on: I know someone that for years figured his Heart barrels had something wrong with them if he wasn't shearing lots of copper off the bullets the first 50 rounds or so.

Personally I have been shooting Benchmark barrels for some years now and to date I have yet to find copper in the bore. In speaking with Ron @ Benchmark I think they feel that with their system the barrel being glass smooth is pretty much broke in when the consumer gets it. Put a Nice hard Nitride finish on that bore and one is going to be very hard pressed to shear copper.

However this is about Jim's research on factory barrels and personally If I spend money on a new gun the gun/barrel better not require my attention regardless of who's factory it came from. I did not make the purchase to spend days wondering or using special tools or lapping compounds to fix something that should have been right from the factory.

Neal
 
From preliminary experience, this Savage LRP 260 REM does shoot good, my main purpose yesterday was to break-in new barrel, sight scope and fire-form brass which hand-stamped Lapua 308. So I set bullets 0.010 off the lands loaded with 4 different powders and drove to the range. The wind was gusting 25+ mph and my worst group at 100 yards was 1.4" 5 shots, the best 5 shot group measured 0.59". So even with no load development this riffle very capable to shoot long range. The only complain is the copper buildup, which I believe can effect accuracy, specially from cold barrel. I think bore lapping with KG-2 which I mentioned in my previous reply, seems like most effective and time-efficient solution.
 
I would avoid abrasive paste, or use very sparingly. You can over do it and ruin a barrel with excessive use.

A custom barrel is hand lapped with 120-150 abrasive on a lead lap, so that it works evenly along the entire bore. Creating a dimensionally uniform bore.

Pushing patches with 800-1000 grit is not going to dimensionally uniform anything. It will create a highly polished surface that will gall more copper off the bullets.
 
I'm not going to polish it with the patch, but apply 1200-1400grit polish on the surface of the barrel using a patch, then shoot bullets through it, it could work...
 
Coyboy, can you check if in your HS Precision stock aluminum block made for target action. On mine it looks like it grips action only on the side and has no contact on the bottom, I have a theory this bedding block was never designed for target action... It needs to be widen a bit, or maybe I just got a dud as usual :cool:
 
Jinx,
Usually the hs block makes side contact first this acts like a wedge if it made bottom contact first and no or light side contact it could rock/wobble.

So I don't think there is anything wrong with your stock, other than it is an hs and still needs a good skim bedding job so all the stress is gone.

I just pulled mine apart today, loosened the front screw first and as is typical with a savage in an hs the barrel climbed in the channel from the stress of the system.

The barrel got lapped with a poured lead lap, it was tight for about 6" just in front of the throat.
The nut jb welded on.
It was then punched out to 6.5x284 after being indicated in, the rear of the Creedmore chamber was .010"TIR out from the throat/bore.
Fit to a small shank varmit action. I'm going to put on a muscle brake next week.
Now it is my modified factory gun.
 
Coyboy, I thought target action use large shank and you saying its using small?
Can you explain welded on part, I'm thinking to get new barrel and I thought I need large shank barrel. By the way I took my rifle for a spin today at 300 yards groups really opened up, but I need to measure it.

Coyboy, do you think replacing recoil lug would serve anything? I'm looking for gunsmith to get throat extended so I thought why not replace recoil lug so I can then skin bed the action.
 
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yes it was a large shank, I made it a small and fit it to a different action,
sold the LRP action and stock for parts to a buddy who had to have it.

Sorry my gun has only one purpose. To shoot in the VHJ factory mod class. I'm only interested in having a factory action and barrel, modified to shoot little ballons at 500 yards in hellish winds.

In factory form this 6.5 CM was not where I wanted it to be so let the cutting begin.
Thus the lapping, rechamber, and soon restocking.
 
Here are my measurements, 300 yards 5 shots, no wind about 80F, sorry to say 4.156" was my best and another group measured 4.726" this is clasical 1 - 1.5 MOA riffle, just don't get it where Target part and Precision with Long Range, I had my SPS Varmint in 223 it shot 1.3" 5 shot group. I thought varmint rifles are great, but target should be even better... I was hopping to see groups like 0.9" - 1" from this. My previous TC Icon PH shot 2.8" at 600 yards, that some accuracy... Just hope team Savage is not using anything like what I have out the box...
 
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