Need help ffp or sfp

I run both FFP and SFP my favourite is my IOR 3.5-18 x50 FFP it's what ever spins your wheels.

I actually looked really long and hard at your scope. Valdada has some beautiful glass... But when I stumbled across that HDMR with the larue 111 and a level for 1200 and change... Well that made up my mind pretty darn quick... That put the scope at a bit less than 1k...which then separated it from the ior by about $700.

Looked for a long time and I was really struggling trying to make up my mind... But the money difference tipped me to the bushnell. Had I to go retail prices on all if it... I was leaning towards the Valdada.
 
Here is a instant that happened to me this elk season. I acquired a 4-16 Vortex HSLR a couple seasons ago but had never taken any game with it. It's a great scope with the XLR reticle and have shot with it a lot.

Hunting elk just breaking daylight raining lightly with fog and am down in a deep canyon. Spotted some elk including a good bull moving down the opposite ridge through the timber. Ranged an opening in the timber (400 yard's)right below them knowing they would pass through. Dialed 5.5 and when I saw the lead cow hit the clearing brought the rifle up. The bull was fifth and stopped just as I spotted him in the scope.

That's when I realize I could not see the reticle. I had the scope on 4 power. Dropped the rifle down cranked the zoom to around 8 or so brought the rifle back up in time to see his rump disappear into the timber but the reticle was quite clear. The bummer is I know better but had just simply forgot to up the power for the bad light. With the old 2nd focal plane Leupold on that rifle would have busted that bull.

Building another rifle and I'm now looking at the 2nd focal plane Nightforce SHV mainly to avoid what happened above. What's that saying KISS 'keep it simple stupid" So in my opinion it just boils down to your style of hunting but my next scope will be in the second focal plane.
 
Here is a instant that happened to me this elk season. I acquired a 4-16 Vortex HSLR a couple seasons ago but had never taken any game with it. It's a great scope with the XLR reticle and have shot with it a lot.

Hunting elk just breaking daylight raining lightly with fog and am down in a deep canyon. Spotted some elk including a good bull moving down the opposite ridge through the timber. Ranged an opening in the timber (400 yard's)right below them knowing they would pass through. Dialed 5.5 and when I saw the lead cow hit the clearing brought the rifle up. The bull was fifth and stopped just as I spotted him in the scope.

That's when I realize I could not see the reticle. I had the scope on 4 power. Dropped the rifle down cranked the zoom to around 8 or so brought the rifle back up in time to see his rump disappear into the timber but the reticle was quite clear. The bummer is I know better but had just simply forgot to up the power for the bad light. With the old 2nd focal plane Leupold on that rifle would have busted that bull.

Building another rifle and I'm now looking at the 2nd focal plane Nightforce SHV mainly to avoid what happened above. What's that saying KISS 'keep it simple stupid" So in my opinion it just boils down to your style of hunting but my next scope will be in the second focal plane.

I hear ya Jim. That's why my long distance scope has illumination.. And I would really have preferred it for my yote scope, but for $700 more... No dice. I'll find a way to make it work and besides... If I've got it cranked down low... Chances are I won't need any hold over because we are calling in the mutts, so they are coming to us. If not, We generally get plenty of time to dial up if one is holding back. Sorry to hear about the bull... That's a bad feeling.
 
Here is a instant that happened to me this elk season. I acquired a 4-16 Vortex HSLR a couple seasons ago but had never taken any game with it. It's a great scope with the XLR reticle and have shot with it a lot.

Hunting elk just breaking daylight raining lightly with fog and am down in a deep canyon. Spotted some elk including a good bull moving down the opposite ridge through the timber. Ranged an opening in the timber (400 yard's)right below them knowing they would pass through. Dialed 5.5 and when I saw the lead cow hit the clearing brought the rifle up. The bull was fifth and stopped just as I spotted him in the scope.

That's when I realize I could not see the reticle. I had the scope on 4 power. Dropped the rifle down cranked the zoom to around 8 or so brought the rifle back up in time to see his rump disappear into the timber but the reticle was quite clear. The bummer is I know better but had just simply forgot to up the power for the bad light. With the old 2nd focal plane Leupold on that rifle would have busted that bull.

Building another rifle and I'm now looking at the 2nd focal plane Nightforce SHV mainly to avoid what happened above. What's that saying KISS 'keep it simple stupid" So in my opinion it just boils down to your style of hunting but my next scope will be in the second focal plane.

Right on, and illumination takes time to adjust intensity as sometimes it is just a red glare and not good for precise placement on a long shot. I found the same thing you just described in dark timber while stalking elk. Pull up and no visable reticle, let alone able to use the subtensions for a hold. But FFP is calibrated on all power, you just cant see it at times. Some you cant see those calibrated subtensions below 10 x even in full day lite. :rolleyes: No more FFP for this cat. I'm got over that quick for my needs.

Jeff
 
Right on, and illumination takes time to adjust intensity as sometimes it is just a red glare and not good for precise placement on a long shot. I found the same thing you just described in dark timber while stalking elk. Pull up and no visable reticle, let alone able to use the subtensions for a hold. But FFP is calibrated on all power, you just cant see it at times. Some you cant see those calibrated subtensions below 10 x even in full day lite. :rolleyes: No more FFP for this cat. I'm got over that quick for my needs.

Jeff

Hold on Jeff! Lol... My illumination is a simple click left or right ... As it has on/off engagement every 2 clicks. So... I set it where I want it to be intensity wise, turn back one click and it's set. In the field, a simple click forward puts me at a lower intensity... An back gives me a higher intensity... In the light range which is comfortable for the shooting conditions... No back wash of light or glare.

Takes so little time that someone adjusting his elevation knob is going to spend way more time than me using mil hash holdovers at any magnification and a single click forward or back for illumination. Go speed racer... Go!

But here's the real catch... I generally set my illumination intensity in the evening about 30 minutes after sunset... Then turn it back a single click to turn it off. When we get out to hunt in the morning... I just turn my illumination on and leave it on until the sun is up a good hour or so. Then I just dial it off. Of course... Like all prepping for a hunt.. I toss in a new battery and have another on standby in my jacket... Though they last for many many hours, it's still nice to have backup.

But this is why they offer ffp & sfp. Each appeals for different users for different reasons.

Will admit... On the new hdmr... Really curious if at low 3.5-4 magnification with no illumination... If I'll be able to pick out the crosshairs for close distance morning yote shooting. I'll find out Sunday as the new scope should be here Saturday... I'll get it sighted that evening... And be out for mutts the following morning.

Will post back aye or nay!
 
At 4x or 6x the outermost bars of the FFP reticle are pretty thick and form a duplex type reticle.. But about the only time my scope is dialed that low is when I am expecting something at 50-75 yards.

Reticle at min magnification
ret_pst_f_4-16x50_ebr1_moa-t.jpg


Highest magnification
sub_pst_f_4-16x50_ebr1_moa-t.jpg
 
It's not a one size fits all world ... I'm just glad we have choices. As previously noted by others, it's a matter of preference for the intended use.

Having said that, I'm having a very positive experience with my 1st FFP scope. :cool:
 
I think the choice is personal preference and understand the benefits of the FFP for tactical shooting having taken advantage of the constant reticle calibration when shooting competitively. Having tried both, for hunting, I prefer the SFP. When I am using low power, usually in low light or heavier cover a heavier reticle helps, the FFP gets thinner. When I am shooting at long range I prefer a finer reticle for precision. The FFP gets thicker. Overall, the effects are opposite of what I desire. For my style of hunting I like myG7 NF 5.5x22 (SFP) with a 600 yard velocity reticle. For long range shots I generally use my turret for precise shot placement. For tighter work at closer ranges(under 600 yards but still requiring elevation adjustsments) my velocity reticle calibrates with the scope set at 10x, my prefered closer range power, and still maintains the constant reticle thickness. This set up has proven very fast and versatile for me. As an added benefit I can save the added cost of a FFP feature and get other desired options like zero stop with the savings.IMO
 
Yak si mash Panchik ! Some Okhotniks over here like FFP , and go to War with Elk , Antelope , and Mountain Goats . Some guys like Vodka , but some prefer Beer . Whatever floats your Boat ..... it's all good .
 
Found this at NF website ...

The U.S. military asked for a scope that is exceptionally fast and applicable to a wide range of targets at various distances. The 3.5-15 x 50 F1 NXS™ is the answer. The reticle is located in the first focal plane, which has distinct advantages in high-stress situations and when the user might encounter targets from up-close to 1000 yards or more. A first focal plane reticle remains in the same visual proportion to the target across the scope's entire magnification range, making it especially appropriate with rangefinding reticles. Combined with Nightforce highly tactile and intuitive adjustments, it makes for a scope that is extremely quick, accurate, responsive and utterly reliable.
 
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