Scope Help.

friendlyfireisnt

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May 5, 2006
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Just picked up a Remington Sendero in .270 Winchester, which I am going to use for some long range target shooting, and possibly some hunting a bit later on.

My budget is limited right now, $360 including mounts/rings.

I figure I have a few choices:

SuperSniper 10x or 16x and Talley one piece mounts
Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x Talley mounts
Nikon Monarch 2.5-10x (Refurb) and Talley mounts

I have a VXII w/ M1 turrets on my other rifle.

Any advice?
 
i am in the same boat with the same rifle!i wish u would try the super sniper in the 16x and tell me how it goes!good luck
 
i am in the same boat with the same rifle!i wish u would try the super sniper in the 16x and tell me how it goes!good luck

I actually ordered the 10x SS, but they are out of stock, so I have a few days to change my mind.

I am thinking that the 16x might be a bit too limiting.
 
i feel you.my dad has a 10x and it seems to track good but i don't like the feeling of the knobs.the dials aren't as definate as i would like.i was biting my nails trying to figure out what to do.i ended up gettin a 4200 tactical and love it but i can get two ss's for the price of one of those.i have a savage fclass rifle ordered that im really considering going with the 20x ss since it will mainly be used for paper.i wish scopes were free.if anybody has one that needs a good home i will gladly take it in.do you know what bullets you are going to try?
 
Couple comments

1. I would go with a variable for sure. Fixed powers are too limiting for close up shots. Plus you want something with either a BDC type reticle or target turrets that are easy to adjust if you plan on working out LR.

I do like the Nikon scopes though and with a little work, the ones with the BDC will work out to 600-800 on deer size game, particularily with a 270. You just need a ballistics program ($70) to figure actual drops for each circle at 2 or 3 powers and make a credit card size laminated card to carry or put on side of stock or scope. Go with a 200 yard zero at the X and you will find each circle at max power will be about another 100 yds plus or minus 25-50 yds.

I have a 3-9X Kahles TDS reticle with my 300 WSM that can go from 317-840 yds by using 6, 7, 8 and 9X and the first crosshairs below with a 200 yd zero. I have about 40 yd increments by switching power and lower crosshairs.

2. IF you are going to shoot LR the scope either has to have lot of elevation or you use a tapered base. Just because a scope says it has 40MOA of elevation, that does not mean it will automatically center. You might find it is way to the top to zero.

Recommend you look at a double dovetail base with burris signature rings that allow you to add inserts if you need the MOA. The double dovetail is solid weight is not an issue here anyway. Talley rings are noted for lightweight guns, which is not what you have. IMO the double dovetail with burris signature rings are a solid, cost effective setup that you will not regret.

BH
 
i dont understand what the big deal with the bdc reticle is?i dont want to be guessing at the center of the dang circle.i wouldnt have one for free....well maybe free.i know u can get close but that little bit will magnify a bunch at LR.just my thinkin...its right though!
 
Thanks everyone. I have decided to go with the Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 with mil-dots, and I am probably going to go with the Burris signature rings in a dual dovetail mount, so that I can get a little extra elevation for longer shots.
 
I suggest getting the extended bases. Otherwise you may run into mounting trouble with that scope and a long action.
 
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