Viper Barrel Vice

[jackthebear]

Need some advice here. Have the above vice. Kreiger #4 in it right now with the nuts cranked down, wedged in between two pieces of leather so my cerakote doesn't come off and can't get my action off the barrel. Whole unit spins. Help!

BeU

 

[jackthebear]

Thanks in advance, Beau

 

[1000yards]

Thanks in advance, Beau

Use of rosin helps and have always had better luck with oak blocks. Never tried leather.

 

[shortgrass]

If it did spin, the coating is probably already messed up. Got no help for ya' , except ya' need a better vise. I'm using a steel, 4 bolt vise similar to Brownells vise that uses steel or aluminum bushings (I've used the same vise for over 30yrs. We were required to make the vise and action wrench while in gunsmith school). I couldn't count on an aluminum vise with V-block to work 100% of the time. The only actions that give me trouble are the Weatherby Vanguard/Howa and the occasional M1917 or P14 "Enfield".

 

[jackthebear]

HUGE shout out to Bob "THE VIPER" Pastor who exemplified what customer service is all about! Not only did he walk me through some methods but he completely stood behind his vice and replaced it no questions asked!

 

[ShtrRdy]

What did you end up doing to get the barrel off without marring the finish?

 

[jackthebear]

I never did get it off yet. Bob sent me a new vice made by Grizzly that is more suited to sporter contoured barrels. I haven't mounted the vice yet to give it a go but After getting some feedback from Bigngreen, I believe The problem lies in the fact that the barrelled action was cerakoted together rather than separately.

 

[tobnpr]

I don't see the Cerakoting being an issue (I always Cerakote barreled actions and not components separately when possible- too much risk of marring the finish doing them separately and then assembling after for me). There's absolutely no "gap" or clearance between the barrel and receiver shoulders on a correctly built rifle and I don't see how .001 of Cerakote on the outside could "adhere" the two parts together.

Anyway... if you still have a problem with clamping force with the new vice, use Rosin as mentioned; I will sometimes use a "slurry" of aluminum oxide from the blast cabinet mixed with a little machine oil. The leather is likely a mistake and is what's causing the action to spin- I wouldn't use it.

 

[Boe]

Get yourself the cardboard tube that comes with a roll of toilet paper or paper towels, cut the tube length wise. Apply a moderate amount of rosin to the inside of the tube and wrap it as tight as you can around your barrel then secure it with tape. This will enable you to freely position the barrel in your vise without everything coming loose. ( very important step) Torque barrel in vise and remove receiver.

Clamping pressure is very important to eliminate the possibility of spinning the barrel in the vise.
I've removed countless factory sporter taper barrels using this method and never damaged the finish whether it be factory bluing, Cerakote or other spray on finishes. Over the years I've used this method on 3 different barrel vises I have in my shop, Davidson, Brownells, and a Viper that Bob Pastor makes.

Richard Hilts
Hilts Accuracy Custom Rifles
www.hiltscustomrifles.com

 

[jrock]

I use a double layer of business cards and it won't mar the finish as long as it doesn't spin.

 

[TRexF16]

Vise.