TAC 15i questions

[skidkid]

I recently made a trade with a friend and ended up with a TAC 15i. I remember drooling over them when they were just a rumor with it's own web page. I got about a dozen of the TAC arrows from PSE with it. It has the optimizer on it already and still has the whisker biscuit.

When I first started shooting it was grouping real well but you had to start using the mil dots for hold off as it was going left the further you shot with it. After finding this great forum I realized the biscuit wasn't centered properly and instead of screwing around with it I ordered the Quad drop away rest (from LRH). It also needed new string and cables so I did that also. I no more than got it grouping and the it started shooting erratic. Back to the forum and what I found was most that had this had a limb issue. So I checked her out good and found a splinter started under the front of the bottom left limb.

I called LRH and spoke to Andy (I think) and after some discussion he told me give PSE a call and let him know what the outcome was. I called PSE and in 15 minutes or less I had the serial number transferred to my name and a return authorization number. It was $149.00 round trip. I thought that was a very reasonable price and the customer service was fast, polite, and efficient. I also found out that this TAC was a 2010 model.

While I had the TAC broke down I took it down to nothing and cleaned everything. I modified the rail, replaced the cocking cord, and installed the outdoor adhesive tape with GT-5000 grip tape to the hammer. Thanks again to all the great information on this forum including photos.

I got the bow back from PSE and they replaced my new string and cables with new ones (I was not going to ship them, should have went with my gut) and I think the cams are new also. I thought my cams had a 5 in the number on them ( I was going to take a pic but didn't) and the ones on it now have no 5, my memory is not what it used to be so I can't be positive. The string was not completely over where it hooks on the cam and the right cam was definitely not over the timing mark and the left cam was.

I marked the limb bolts and backed them out one turn at a time alternating sides, I backed them each out a total of twelve turns to get the string completely over its hook and I put two twists into the cable string of the right cam. I then proceeded to tighten the limb bolts back down one turn at time alternating sides for twelve turns stopping where my marks were. The cams are now lined up exactly the same and the string and cable ends are completely over the studs.

All this info above is getting me to a couple of questions I have. When I look at the limb bolts I can still see threads between the limb and the riser. Is this normal or should it be tightened down completely. The amount of threads I can see appears to be the same side to side. I do not want to fire this thing until I can get this answered.

The other question is about my arrows. I want to refletch them with three vanes instead of four and I want to no for sure about setting them straight or offset (seems like I have read both ways). They have four vanes right now and they look offset. I will be putting duravanes back on. I have read all about the aerobolts and all the arrow threads I could find. For the time being until I get this thing back to shooting I just want to reflech the original TAC arrows. Maybe for next hunting season I will make the step to Aerobolts.

I know this was long and I appreciate you reading it all if you did. Again I want to thank all you guys for the great info you have shared.

 

[OkieBowie]

I want to refletch them with three vanes instead of four and I want to no for sure about setting them straight or offset (seems like I have read both ways). They have four vanes right now and they look offset. I will be putting duravanes back on.

Using three vanes will require modifying the TAC15i's upper rail (where scope mounts). Either cutting rail down in length or cutting a slot down middle long enough to allow cock vane.

You might consider using three Aerovanes fletched straight and at 120-degree positions. The Aerovanes induce Spin on arrow, once it leaves string.

If you are going to Re-fletch your arrows, make sure you find strong vs. weak side of arrows spine, then mark strong side (or weak side) but be consistent. From there insure what will be your cock vane (unique color) is always on chosen side.

A small dab of Glue at front edge of vanes, seems to help (in my experience) hold vanes on when arrows blow through targets.

Sorry, I can't help with arm bolts. My TAC15i is elsewhere.

 

[skidkid]

Thanks Okie, I have already modified the rail so I could shoot three fletch. I was going to order the Aerovanes but from reading it sounded like you needed a special clamp to put them on. My bow shop has never even heard of them so I know they would not have the clamp. After I get this thing going and the fun money builds back up I will probably invest in some of Dorge's tools for fletching and some Aerobolts.

So with the duravanes I should install them straight?

Thanks again.

 

[OkieBowie]

Aerovanes but from reading it sounded like you needed a special clamp to put them on.

I think you can use a regular clamp if you modify it. The Aerovanes are not flat like a regular vane. Aerovanes have a raised curve, forming an airfoil, which induces the spin. To properly clamp Aerovanes, you need a small brass bar strip glued on to inside of clamp right along edge. The brass strip goes on same side as raised curve. This allows clamp's edges to grip Aerovanes at their base.

So with the duravanes I should install them straight?

Take this with knowledge, it has been some time since I used Duravanes. I think you want Duravanes at slight angle to help induce spin on arrows. However, to much angle, and Duravanes may drag edges or hit the rest arms.

 

[OkieBowie]

Just found the write up on "Aerovane Tool" (brass bar).

"Most metal straight clamp type jigs with the Aerovane tool installed would be usable to fletch the Aerovane effectively. Please note that although the Arizona Easy Fletch straight clamp claims to be straight, it is actually has a 1 degree offset, thus it is not suitable for fletching Aerovanes for high speed."

"Aerovanes are based on airfoil design, this design resembles the profile of the frontal portion of an owl's wing. With this design, the vane is no longer flat which makes a standard straight clamp close to impossible to clamp it straight. To overcome this design difficulty, our Patent Pending wind channel solves the problem by utilizing the 1/16" square brass bar as a spacer inside the wind channel. The thickness of the bar will allow the clamp to clamp the fletching straight at its feet on both sides. In other words, if you want to fletch Aerovanes correctly, it is essential to use the Aerovane tool on the clamp as indicated in the manual."

 

[skidkid]

I called PSE tech support and they said that the limbs should be all the way against the riser with no gap. Crank the limb bolts all the way down.

 

[OkieBowie]

Crank the limb bolts all the way down.

When I get back, I will have to check mine. Been a while since I looked whole TAC15i over.