Savage bottom bolt release conversion

[TAZMAN]

I have researched this to death and there are some variables that I am hoping someone can assist with. I am building a second custom rifle on a Savage 10/110 action with a Bell and Carlson stock. This one has the bottom bolt release and will need converted. I have located the sear to do this, but I have a question on if I need to order the accu/target trigger or is my current trigger already an accu/target trigger. I can't find the answer.

The second question is the stock? The gun is at the gunsmith right now having a Kreiger diamond fluted 6mm Creedmoor barrel installed as a direct fit and no barrel nut. I want this rifle to be the twin to the 308 I just built so I am trying to figure out the Savage action set up. They show two different part numbers for the stock as it relates to the bolt release as seen below. All work will be done by my gunsmith, and I understand I will have as much money in it as if I just used a custom action but no one wanted to buy it so I am using it. Does anyone know what the stock differences are and if the stock will work with the side bolt release or do I need to contact Bell and Carlson?

 

[TAZMAN]

This is the sear and possibly the trigger I will need?

 

[FEENIX]

I have researched this to death and there are some variables that I am hoping someone can assist with. I am building a second custom rifle on a Savage 10/110 action with a Bell and Carlson stock. This one has the bottom bolt release and will need converted. I have located the sear to do this, but I have a question on if I need to order the accu/target trigger or is my current trigger already an accu/target trigger. I can't find the answer.

The second question is the stock? The gun is at the gunsmith right now having a Kreiger diamond fluted 6mm Creedmoor barrel installed as a direct fit and no barrel nut. I want this rifle to be the twin to the 308 I just built so I am trying to figure out the Savage action set up. They show two different part numbers for the stock as it relates to the bolt release as seen below. All work will be done by my gunsmith, and I understand I will have as much money in it as if I just used a custom action but no one wanted to buy it so I am using it. Does anyone know what the stock differences are and if the stock will work with the side bolt release or do I need to contact Bell and Carlson?



View attachment 555723View attachment 555723

I am interested in your conversion process from the bottom bolt release to the top configuration. I saw the thread at Savage Shooters but did not try it on my last project build. All of my Savage action builds are top bolt releases except for one. My .257 WBY is a bottom release. For stocks that I wanted that are budget-friendly, I was limited to Boyd's and Oryx MDT chassis. I ended up going with Oryx. The bottom release is in a PIA if you have to take the bolt out, especially during barrel break-in. Other than that it is not too bad. Good luck!

ADDED:

 

[sedancowboy]

If you convert the action to top bolt release you want to order the stock with top bolt release.
There is a relief cut for the top bolt release on the right side of the action inlet that you will need.
I went with a Jard trigger and did away with the accu-trigger.

 

[TAZMAN]

Well, it looks like I will be the guinea pig...lol I have ordered all the parts and talked with the gun smith. He thinks it will be straight forward, but I had to buy the trigger with the sear because no one could tell me for sure if the new sear with work with the current trigger assy. I'm sure the stock will need clearanced but that's not a big deal.

 

[TAZMAN]

My wife knows what actions cost and she is questioning my sanity for putting this much money in a Savage action. I ordered the PTG straight fluted bolt shroud and bolt head from Midway to make it identical to my other rifle. I am changing out the large tactical bolt to the tear drop one. Hopefully it all works out.

 

[wldcat]

The action needs milled , on top bolt release there is a flat milled into right side at back of action, bottom bolt release doesn't have this. I converted one this last year with a jard trigger, was 100% drop in except milling action to make room for bolt release

 

[chav0_12]

If I was doing what you're doing, I would've just used the AICS bottom metal from PTG for the bottom bolt release. That's what I did on my 28 Nosler. Granted I wasn't trying to make it match another rifle.

If you want to get rid of that tactical bolt handle I could use one, I might be holding a 6mm Creedmoor or Dasher too.

 

[brant89]

Easiest way to do this is to have your smith mill out the recessed clearance for the top release and buy a Jard trigger. Done.

 

[brant89]

The action needs milled , on top bolt release there is a flat milled into right side at back of action, bottom bolt release doesn't have this. I converted one this last year with a jard trigger, was 100% drop in except milling action to make room for bolt release

Didn't see this response before I posted, but this is what I did as well. It's extremely easy to do with some pretty basic machining equipment.

 

[TAZMAN]

Trigger and sear are ordered. I have had terrible luck with dealing directly with PTG. If I can't find it "in stock" somewhere I won't order it. PTG will tell you it's in stock and then not deliver. I don't care to do that again. All parts are ordered, and it will take some time to build. My gunsmith has some 5 axis machines and does a lot of specialty work. He said he can make the action cut look factory. Probably won't do another one but this one will be as close to perfect as it can be!

 

[TAZMAN]

The stock is already clearanced but the action will need machined.

 

[Barrelnut]

Not sure about all aspects of converting from bottom to top release. But do know the regular and target sears are different. The target sear has a bit longer arm, I believe.
One tip I can give you is to get a set of trigger shims for the target trigger or any Accutrigger. This about the only way to achieve a reliable below 1 lb. pull weight on the trigger. The housing and sear for the Savage Accutrigger are stamped metal, so tolerances aren't tight. You can get a set of small washers (shims) that allow you to take out the slop on the sides of the trigger inside the housing. You can also use the shims to better align the sear and trigger engagement. They work great and are inexpensive.
You can order them here:
https://www.triggershims.com/savage.php#SavAccuShim-K

 

[TAZMAN]

I will order some shims just to have. I ordered the sear and trigger from Gun Shack as a set. There are worse things to spend money on I guess?