I'm thinking about having a rifle finished in camo or another color. I know you guys have experience with this. Any recommendations on where to get it done? I really don't care about protecting the rifle, just want a different finish.
rifle finishing
- Thread starter timl
- Start date
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A different finish? why not have the exterior gold plated? No? how about chrome? Mix it up and have the stock done in chrome and the metalwork in gold!
The idea that shiny is bad is one of those absurdities that amuse me to no end. Almost none of the animals we hunt have much eyesite to speak of. Hearing and smell they have all over us, but eyes? if it aint moving, it hasn't drawn any attention yet!
The idea that shiny is bad is one of those absurdities that amuse me to no end. Almost none of the animals we hunt have much eyesite to speak of. Hearing and smell they have all over us, but eyes? if it aint moving, it hasn't drawn any attention yet!
SamSpade
Well-Known Member
Dzaw--sorry I asked that stupid question. Next time I decide to have something done to one of MY rifles, I'll check with you first. If I wanted someone to question the necessity of spending more money on a rifle, I would have asked my wife. If you don't have a helpful answer to someone's question, don't answer.
Dead Beat
Well-Known Member
tim duracoat is good alumahyde is another brownell's sell's it some use krylon camo . as for drawz well i use to come here alot an asked about a tactical scope and guy with 1700 + post's with the initials BB went off about why did i want a scope like that. Afghanistan and the jungle canopy of Vietnam i guess i should of said long range
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
timl & deadbeat,
Sometimes some folks mean the right thing in the right way but is goes awry in the typing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I like my colors as loud and wild as I can get. For LRH there ain't no animal aware that I'm in the area.
Duracoat is super as is krylon etc. I put a base coat of p/u truck bed coating as a base cost. Nice and rough but not too rough. Leave it that way for black or cover it w/air brush or krylon can.
Sometimes some folks mean the right thing in the right way but is goes awry in the typing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I like my colors as loud and wild as I can get. For LRH there ain't no animal aware that I'm in the area.
Duracoat is super as is krylon etc. I put a base coat of p/u truck bed coating as a base cost. Nice and rough but not too rough. Leave it that way for black or cover it w/air brush or krylon can.
Apoligies
Kind Sirs,
The somment above about non shiny finished and my opinion of the reasons most often cited were not then and are not now intended as personal slights towards yourselves or anyone in particular. For the record, I have no problem if you like your gun matte black, camo, or any other color and finish.
The comment was aimed mostly at factory riflemakers, who figured out that not polishing their metal parts would save a significant amount of money per unit, and then found a way to foist off this lazy, money grubbing poor practice as a feature, and charge MORE for it!
Do whatever the heck you want with your gun, as you so aptly pointed out it IS your rifle! Considering I'll not ever likely meet you in person, it makes no real difference to me!
I was simply trying to be humorous, with the gold and nickel thing. If my sense of humor is lacking, or my delivery is less than graceful, the fault lies entirely with me, and I am sorry I so offended you.
For what it's worth (which I fear may not be much, I suppose), here is the official apology. I never meant anything by it, and I am sorry.
Kind Sirs,
The somment above about non shiny finished and my opinion of the reasons most often cited were not then and are not now intended as personal slights towards yourselves or anyone in particular. For the record, I have no problem if you like your gun matte black, camo, or any other color and finish.
The comment was aimed mostly at factory riflemakers, who figured out that not polishing their metal parts would save a significant amount of money per unit, and then found a way to foist off this lazy, money grubbing poor practice as a feature, and charge MORE for it!
Do whatever the heck you want with your gun, as you so aptly pointed out it IS your rifle! Considering I'll not ever likely meet you in person, it makes no real difference to me!
I was simply trying to be humorous, with the gold and nickel thing. If my sense of humor is lacking, or my delivery is less than graceful, the fault lies entirely with me, and I am sorry I so offended you.
For what it's worth (which I fear may not be much, I suppose), here is the official apology. I never meant anything by it, and I am sorry.
Re: Apoligies
Dzaw-- I guess I took what you said the wrong way. You didn't need to apologize, but I appreciate it anyway.
Dzaw-- I guess I took what you said the wrong way. You didn't need to apologize, but I appreciate it anyway.
IChaseCoues
Well-Known Member
Re: Apoligies
Dzaw,
The loping goats of the open prairies walk around with about 8X binos for eyes! And yes I have shiny guns to chase them with.
All joking aside, most of the animals I hunt have better vision than I think. In contrast, I believe movement is what will give you away quicker than a stainless barrel.
timl,
Theres some info around here on the various coatings, from bake on teflon, to krylon. I think I'm going to try Duracoat on my current project. It seems to be user friendly and tough. I have been warned to wait 2 to 3 weeks before any rough handling though. Run a search on each and you should come up with a couple days of reading material!
Good luck.
Dzaw,
The loping goats of the open prairies walk around with about 8X binos for eyes! And yes I have shiny guns to chase them with.
All joking aside, most of the animals I hunt have better vision than I think. In contrast, I believe movement is what will give you away quicker than a stainless barrel.
timl,
Theres some info around here on the various coatings, from bake on teflon, to krylon. I think I'm going to try Duracoat on my current project. It seems to be user friendly and tough. I have been warned to wait 2 to 3 weeks before any rough handling though. Run a search on each and you should come up with a couple days of reading material!
Good luck.
Black Diamond 408
Well-Known Member
Tim,
Like others has stated, check out the Duracoat. You can do it yourself and save some $$ if your handy. KG Gunkote is very good also, but it takes a little more work. Sandblasting, oven baking the parts. These two are very durable, simple Krylon paint works well, you will have to touch it up as needed. I like to use products that have built in abrasion resistance. I use KG Gunkote the most. Brownells has some new bake on teflon-moly coatings. Either one of these are not cheap, you can get the Duracoat system in kit form, you have to use an air brush. No baking is needed, but it can be force cured in 110 deg oven. Duracoat can be applied to the entire rifle, even scopes. KG gun coat cannot, baked on only, 300 deg oven temp. Use your emagination, camo jobs is to make the owner happy, the game dont care..LOL.
Dave
Like others has stated, check out the Duracoat. You can do it yourself and save some $$ if your handy. KG Gunkote is very good also, but it takes a little more work. Sandblasting, oven baking the parts. These two are very durable, simple Krylon paint works well, you will have to touch it up as needed. I like to use products that have built in abrasion resistance. I use KG Gunkote the most. Brownells has some new bake on teflon-moly coatings. Either one of these are not cheap, you can get the Duracoat system in kit form, you have to use an air brush. No baking is needed, but it can be force cured in 110 deg oven. Duracoat can be applied to the entire rifle, even scopes. KG gun coat cannot, baked on only, 300 deg oven temp. Use your emagination, camo jobs is to make the owner happy, the game dont care..LOL.
Dave
smack
Well-Known Member
Don't mess around send it here and have peace of mind.....Randy does TOP NOTCH work..
http://www.rdprecision.net/index.html
Also I feel the Moly coating is much better than the DuraCoat with the Moly once out of the over your good to go DuraCoat takes 4-6 weeks to completely cure...No solvents can touch it during the cure time.A real pain in the hindend....
http://www.rdprecision.net/index.html
Also I feel the Moly coating is much better than the DuraCoat with the Moly once out of the over your good to go DuraCoat takes 4-6 weeks to completely cure...No solvents can touch it during the cure time.A real pain in the hindend....
