Reloading Pistol Tips

[Vamike9]

I'm very used to reloading precision rifle but need some tips with pistol.
Recently reloaded some 45acp exactly as the handbook/manual describes. All performed excellent in my 1911.
However, when I reload I notice I'm feeling the lip around the case mouth more than factory ammo.
I don't over expand and I'm making sure I'm following the directions exactly. They feed well but I don't like this.
It's evenly seated with no gap around case mouth.
Also would like some tips on 44 magnum as I plan to start reloading soon.

 

[hollywood63]

Well being I'm in the same boat as you except just the opposite I'm new to the rifle scene but been reloading hand guns for a while now. Sounds like the crimp die needs some tweaking. Set it to taper crimp a bit more "flatten out the lip". Then pull the bullet and measure to see if it's getting swagged by the crimp. I'm guessing not and you just need a bit more crimp. I've found that most brands of dies need the adjustments tweaked a bit as all presses are not the same. The 44 if your gonna load full house mag loads your gonna want a good roll crimp to keep the bullets from jumping and locking up the cylinder. All the stuff about what powder, bullet etc you already know find what works. If your loading cast try http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forum.php they are huge J word fans but a bunch of good guys just like the folks here.
Being a newbie here hope this helps a bit.

 

[Laelkhunter]

You definitely want to expand the mouth of the case enough to allow the bullet to enter the case during the seating process. This will prevent it from shaving some of the bullet base, or cause the case wall to collapse. On revolver cartridges, you want a "roll crimp", and crimp into the cannelure if the bullet has one. If it doesn't, trying to crimp the case too much will cause the case to bulge, and it won't chamber in the weapon.
On auto pistol cartridges, it is best to "taper crimp", Lee & RCBS make a Taper Crimp die. It is best to adjust the seating die out until it doesn't crimp the case, then screw it in a little at a time, while raising the ram pushing the cartridge into the crimp die. A little at a time until you don't feel the "lip" as you put it. You don't want to over crimp (crush) the case mouth, because the pistol round seats (headspaces) on the mouth of the case when it chambers. Too much crimp could cause the round to enter too far into the chamber, and might cause misfires (although the extractor will probably hold the case against the face of the slide).

 

[Vamike9]

Here's how I adjusted the crimp.
First, I took a factory Remington cartridge and placed it into the seater with seater backed out.
Then lowered arm and slowly tightened the seater down until it was tight against the already factory crimped ammo. This allowed me to get the crimp very close quickly.
After that I placed a charged case in the shell holder and placed bullet and began seating it. I slowly adjusted the crimp in 1/8 turn increments. Still, no matter how I played with the setting I never got it quite like I wanted.
Also prior to that I made sure the expander was just enough for me to place the bullet in without being too tight or loose in case.

Thanks guys for all the help

 

[iowaelkbum]

I use a lee crimp die on my .44 loads. Its great for $12. I wouldn't go back to roll crimping after using the Lee die. I also use one for my 9mm ammo, its a carbide die that sets the crimp. These dies require an extra step in reloading, but are worth it to me.

 

[DocDoc]

I use a lee crimp die on my .44 loads. Its great for $12. I wouldn't go back to roll crimping after using the Lee die. I also use one for my 9mm ammo, its a carbide die that sets the crimp. These dies require an extra step in reloading, but are worth it to me.

For a .45 auto you want to be sure the cases are all the same length. Same for 9 mm auto. With the same length, the taper crimp will be the same for all and the crimp, when set right, will not cause feeding problems.

 

[hunternhunter]

 

[just country]

morning, I use a carbide die for resizing my 44 mag. cases.
I have a crimp die setup for the 44. the belling of the mouth is the
last operation I do before powder and bullet.
all of these functions have their separate dies I have purchased
and numbered for no fault operation. W-296 powder, CCI mag.
pistol primers. Winchester brass if possible. I like to 200gr. Barnes HP
bullet. I clean each case looking for cracks at the case mouth.
I load the 44mag. brass to the velocities of the 44 SP.
easier on the hand, less recoil. I use the 44 for doe. I do not
shoot bucks. doe meat taste better. I have boiled the horns.
not edible. GBOT TUM

 

[RT2506]

I have been loading both pistol and rifle for over 40 years so here are a couple tips I will offer that you should pay attention to. Always seat your bullet first then in a separate function crimp. If you don't you stand the chance of crushing the case, messing up bullets and getting inconsistent crimps. For round like your 45 ACP GET A LEE FACTOCY CRIMP DIE. It does wonders.

 

[Vamike9]

Thanks for the tips guys. I probably should've mentioned this earlier but the die set I use is the (45acp) RCBS carbide tapered crimp.
I've been using Hornady 185-200gr XTP HP bullets.
When I start reloading 44mag I'll be using Hornady 3 piece titanium die set.

 

[Doc88]

I've loaded thousands of rounds of 45ACP, 40SW, and 9mm for USPSA competition. Reliable feeding is a must. A good rule of thumb, similar to loading rifle, is measure the average case wall thickness at the mouth of your pistol brass plus the diameter of your bullet. Be sure to measure the actual bullets you are loading as there may be some variations in bullet brands. Twice the case wall thickness plus the diameter of the bullet is your maximum crimp. Use your barrel removed and unloaded from your pistol as a case guage. The bullets should drop free into the chamber of the barrel. If not, tighten your crimp 001-.002 at the time until they do. Most of my competition bullet crimps measure .002-.004 smaller than the above equation. Every bullet gets case guaged before competition although I now have 100 round case guages that make the process much faster. However, your actual barrel chamber is a very reliable case guage.

On the subject of case mouth expansion prior to seating the bullet, you need a little bell on the case mouth so that the jacket or coating of the bullet is not shaved off during the seating process. The bell will be ironed out during the crimping process.

Go to the Dillon Reloading website and download an owners manual to any of their machines...550,650 or 1050. This whole process is explained in the manuals very well with pictures. I started on the 550 so that manual may be your best resource.

I hope this helps some. I have no experience with the 44 mag though. Good luck.

 

[Vamike9]

Ok thanks