I haven't reloaded in many years and have decided to get back into it because factory ammo is costing me way too much because I'm really shooting a lot these days. When I did reload, I had an old rock chucker press and it was slow go. I want something that I can crank out some volume but also make some really accurate match ammo. I'm building a 6.5 creedmoor so I'm going to need to do some load development. I shoot 9mm in my handguns, have an AR and a bolt gun in .223, a bolt gun and an Fal in .308 and now the 6.5. I want to be able to load some of the stuff like 9mm in quantity and the other stuff more towards accuracy. There are so many different options out there in presses and it's driving me nuts to which one to get. Started looking at the turret presses like the redding t-7 or lee classic turret and now looking at the progressive the the dillon 550 or hornaby lock n load ap progressive. I like the ideal of the turrets as you can buy extra turrets and keep everything set up when you get it the way you want it but it seems the lock n load is quick to set up when you get everything dialed in and may be more productive. I'm not sure what will make the most precise ammo though. I'm hoping to get precision and production if it's possible. What do you guy suggest?
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Recommendation for a new press
- Thread starter giannid
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Hey mate,
Having had a single stage Lock and Load equivalent in the Lee Breechlock system, I can say that I'm not happy with the accuracy of the quick change bushings. You can get about 0.005"+ difference with Cartridge Base to Ogive (CBTO) measurements with seating as there is so much slop in the bushing to press interface. In my case, I had to super tighten the bushing into the press to get consistent CBTO (+/- 0.0005") etc which you still need tools to achieve. These presses are purely for convenience and certainly not for accuracy.
I have just bought a Redding T7 Turret after reading good things about them and look forward to some consistent results.
Tones.
Having had a single stage Lock and Load equivalent in the Lee Breechlock system, I can say that I'm not happy with the accuracy of the quick change bushings. You can get about 0.005"+ difference with Cartridge Base to Ogive (CBTO) measurements with seating as there is so much slop in the bushing to press interface. In my case, I had to super tighten the bushing into the press to get consistent CBTO (+/- 0.0005") etc which you still need tools to achieve. These presses are purely for convenience and certainly not for accuracy.
I have just bought a Redding T7 Turret after reading good things about them and look forward to some consistent results.
Tones.
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
I'd suggest making a decision on what you'd like today (precision or production) and wait until later to fill the other need. IMO, precision and production don't go together. A turret press will handle lots of ammo in a short period of time. But they aren't truly suitable for premium accuracy. If you want the best accuracy, IMO, you need a set of dies and arbor press (like Wilson) ... or perhaps something in between like a closed frame single stage press (RCBS, Redding) and a good set of Redding bushing dies.
Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
X2 on RCBS (Rock Crusher) and Redding dies (bushing).
Team Roper
Well-Known Member
Forester Co-Ax last press you will ever need or want to buy. There are multiple thread already on here
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
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Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
Depends on what you are really looking for. If you just have to have the best ammo you can load, then of course you want an arbor press and inline dies (you'll still need a regular press). But most folks don't want the bother of two completely different setups. I've found the difference between Wilson dies and my little K&M arbor press, and the Co-Ax with Forster dies to be about two or three tenths (TIR). This usually comes in at .0012" (or slightly less), and .0014" or slightly less. If I see .00175", I start looking for a problem before it gets out of hand. Now I'm a realist, and will tell you that I've loaded lots of ammo that came in at .0008" TIR, but can I do this everytime? Nope! Yet I often hear the folks say they load to about five tenths. But if you do a serious check, it often looks closer to three thousandths (good indicators in a good setup). I can safely say that my press is not a "ringer", as I've seen this same accuracy from many others as well.
With the Co-Ax, you take the press out of the equation, and start looking at other things to glean a few tenths of runout out of the loaded round. Some guys still want to use shell holders, and all that does is to add in error. Dies become the next source for error. Some guys have to have the most expensive dies, and of course there are others that go cheap. I use them all, but most of the time I use Forster. Just as good as the Reddings for a case of beer less.
I also recommend buying the Neco gauge to see what's going on. This is the best you can buy
gary
With the Co-Ax, you take the press out of the equation, and start looking at other things to glean a few tenths of runout out of the loaded round. Some guys still want to use shell holders, and all that does is to add in error. Dies become the next source for error. Some guys have to have the most expensive dies, and of course there are others that go cheap. I use them all, but most of the time I use Forster. Just as good as the Reddings for a case of beer less.
I also recommend buying the Neco gauge to see what's going on. This is the best you can buy
gary
Broz
Well-Known Member
I highly recommend the Redding T-7. I have two and have been running them for years. Very hard to beat and when used properly with Redding competition dies I load very true ammo. The Dillon is used for our lead sprayers.
Jeff
That Forster press looks pretty neat to me. I like the way the dies are quick to swap. I'm not sure I'll find one in stock. Will this press do everything or will I still need another one? I'm not sure I'll get production out of it but may be the best for the precision work. Still doing research but look like a good option. Not cheap for a single stage though.
Team Roper
Well-Known Member
Only press I need. It will not replace a Dillon if you are loading thousands of rounds of pistol ammo. The best thing I like about the Co-Ax is you adjust your dies one time and you are done. They return to just as you had them the time before.
Broz
Well-Known Member
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
here's why I use the RCBS as well (don't laugh too hard). I find the RCBS easier to pull bullets with than the Forster; although I've pulled a lot of bullets with the Forster. I do some serious case forming, and often have to cut the case back quite a bit. Not a lot of fun with the Forster, and easy with the RCBS. Could I live without the RCBS? Yes I could. But it makes life easier for me.
My first wildcat was the 30 Herrett. Fairly easy to do, once you get the head space right. I did my first hundred cases on a buddy's O frame press (might have been a Lyman). Still went easy with three steps. Used those cases for years, and the time came to make another hundred. I did the first set with a C&H die, and had one heck of a time getting a good head space. At a gun show I found a new Forster die set. By then I had my new Forster press, and decided to build some Herrett brass.
I decided to try the new die set out, and couldn't believe the difference in the neck shoulder junction. I started out by simply pushing the shoulder back to where it was around .10" too long. Then worked the die down to create the shoulder junction (very critical). Never paid much attention to how easy it was, as my mind was on the headspace. After that it was easy to form the cases. But I also had to cut them off about .31". I tried and tried to get it done in the press, but just couldn't get there. Got mad and took them to work to cut them off with a die grinder. So the die grinder became the method of madness for about six or eight years. Then in a conversation with Fred Sinclair he said just buy a small O frame press.
gary
dkhunt14
Well-Known Member
Because of annealing and 1000 yard BR. I want the same headspace on all my cases. I set my dies to cam over hard then I screw down my lock ring and lock the screw. Now my die is straight because the pressure on the bottom of the die squares the die up and when the ring is tightened it stays straight. Now I will start out and measure a case with a stoney point. I put die shims under my lock ring on the die. I will lube and size the case. I then take it out and measure the headspace. If I didn't bump it 2 thousandths I will change the shims. Then they all will size the same. I can't use shims on a Forrester co-ax. The difference between a case that is fired a couple of times and one that is annealed can change the bump by 7 thousandths. Matt
