Reberraling

[ntsqd]

Lock-tite in large threads like that makes life difficult, but it isn't the end of the world. There are techniques for dealing with it. Pull up the Lock-tite page and look at their thread-locker's. You're looking for the max service temperature that they're rated for. Pick the most likely candidate. If you heat to a little above that temperature and while warm unthread the barrel it will come out. It may still take some torque to make it move, but it will come loose. The important thing is to buy or make tooling that properly supports the action. Given that it is not a Remington the odds are good that tooling will need to be made. And it may be appropriate to cut a relief groove in the barrel as well.

The trickest set-up would be to build an induction heater and use TempiLaq temp. indicating paint to guide your heating. I would heat the barrel, not the action.

 

[jarnold37]

There are many comments on the net about Browning using red loctite and the difficulty in removing the barrel without damaging the receiver. A few did say they got the barrel off but many said they ruined the action. Some even said the action threads were removed with the barrel!

IMO It is not the end of the world if you cannot shoot bullets heavier than 55 grains. Many of us used our 22-250s for decades before faster twist and heavier bullets made the scene.

I have had several 22-250's and came to the conclusion that 22 diameter bullets, when used for long ranges, have a tradeoff. If you increase the weight, the length is also increased. With increased weight a faster twist is required. Also velocity is decreased when weight and length is increased. For me, I prefer the velocity the 22-250 offers with 55grn and lighter bullets. If shooting paper, the fast twist long bullet is ok but for hunting long range the 224 diameter of the neck limits the velocity when going to longer bullets. This same principle holds true when going to even larger calibers. To long of a bullet and fast twist causes limitations. For long range deer hunting I have a 30 caliber that shoots 125grn over 4000 fps with 14" twist. Also have a 338 caliber which shoots 180grn 3750 fps. They are both very explosive even at long range and the velocity trumps the need for higher b.c bullets. I chamber my own barrels and have gotten away from fast twist chamberings. A 22-250 with fast twist shooting long heavy bullets at 600 yards or farther is certainly a hole poker with little explosive delivery.

 

[ofbandg]

I have had my A-bolt and A-bolt 2 barrels off and saw no sign of red, green or any other color lock tite. This is not to suggest they were easy to get apart. The threads were gritty and my gunsmith friend suggested it might be from sand blasting. I don't know the truth of it but they came apart and went back together. I do know that some gunsmiths won't pull an A-bolt barrel off because of the chance it will crack the action.

 

[sturner]

1:7 or 1:8

 

[Hugnot]

Considering the Lock Tite situation I would be inclined to get another action of .308 W size. My 4 .22-.250's all have McGowen 7.7 twist barrels and my goto bullet is the 75 grain Hornady ELD. McGowen lists the actions they will re-barrel with costs on their site.

Practical use at ranges exceeding 500 yards the .22-.250 @ 3250 fps, 75 ELDM's compare favorably or slightly better than .243W, & 6mm Rem with 87 V-Max's but with 8-10 grains less powder, less blast & longer barrel life. As expected, the .243 87 V-Max bullets due to their construction, intended for quick expansion, offer more visual effects but the .224 75 ELDM's due to their better ballistic qualities do better in the wind, have better retained velocity and still expand well enough. When I need to shoot bigger bullets faster I go to my 6mm AI or 6mm-06.

Take a look at page 347 & 357 of Berger manual, 1st edition. I use H4350, Alliant 4000MR, RL16, & Shooter's World 4350 for my 75 gr. .22-.250 loads.

 

[BiggameBesser]

I'll be honest, I'm what I'd consider to be a fairly green shooter. However i am my biggest critic...take that whatever way you like.

So my dumb question, in my opinion, does anyone have any experience with rebarreling a 22/250? I love the caliber and its potential however my problem is the slow twist on my A-bolt, 1/14". Due to the twist its hard to weight up rounds for long shots. I love the gun but is it worth it to rebarrel or just start from scratch? Keep in mind one cannot get an Abolt and i don't really think the xbolt is the way i want to go

I traded in my heavy barrel Ruger 22-250 for the same in .243 and 40 years later have replaced it several times over the years like 5 times and have never looked back. Just my personal preference. I really like the heavy barrels and with great optics it's amazing what with no wind and ideal conditions what you can hit at .5 of a mile I don't do that every day but up here in Canada I've put the fear of God into many a critter during the winter months when it's 40 below they have to eat to survive I
Never could never do that with my 22-250 you need bullet weight to reach that far and doing it even with the .243 is stretching it big time

 

[ducky]

I'll be honest, I'm what I'd consider to be a fairly green shooter. However i am my biggest critic...take that whatever way you like.

So my dumb question, in my opinion, does anyone have any experience with rebarreling a 22/250? I love the caliber and its potential however my problem is the slow twist on my A-bolt, 1/14".

Not a dumb question at all, but it leads to a couple of questions I want to ask. As "a green shooter", do you reload your own ammunition or are willing to pay for custom ammunition? The reason I ask this is if you don't reload or pay for custom ammunition, what will a fast twist barrel do for you?

My take on it is that if you don't do either just enjoy shooting your rifle. Factory ammunition might come loaded as heavy as 60+ grain bullets in some instances, so going to a faster twist isn't going to gain you any real advantages worth spending money on. In the end an 8 twist barrel is only going to give you more RPM on the bullet vs. the 14 twist? This will probably cause more violent and explosive expansion on soft targets, but it won't improve accuracy. I do have a cavate though, if your barrel is already needing replacement there is no harm in putting on a faster twist barrel.

You might also want to hold off for a little bit on a fast twist .22-250. I think you might see the .22 Creedmoor offered as a factory option in the near future. If this happens you'll basically get a fast twist .22-250 AI with factory loaded ammunition. There are custom ammunition makers out there already building this round as well.

As far as rebarreling a Browning Abolt, you just need to shop around for the right gunsmith. There are gunsmiths that have experience with working on Browning rifles that will do the job and do it well for you. You just have to find the right one.

 

[dogz]

I'll be honest, I'm what I'd consider to be a fairly green shooter. However i am my biggest critic...take that whatever way you like.

So my dumb question, in my opinion, does anyone have any experience with rebarreling a 22/250? I love the caliber and its potential however my problem is the slow twist on my A-bolt, 1/14". Due to the twist its hard to weight up rounds for long shots. I love the gun but is it worth it to rebarrel or just start from scratch? Keep in mind one cannot get an Abolt and i don't really think the xbolt is the way i want to go

Just have to ask, but what are your long range targets and please define what long range is to you.

Many thanks

(side note, for 40 some years I've been using a 22/250 with a 14T in it, out to 500 I'm good to go on target and or on deer, lopes and yotes. This last year I rebarreled a 84M with a 8 twist 22/250AI. With the 85.5 and 88's I can go from 500 to 1K but I'm only doing that on steel)

 

[nksmfamjp]

Something I forgot to add....right now you are pondering rebarreling your rifle. Let's say that costs you $800. Let's say your rifle has a value of $800. After rebarreling, which usually leads to truing, bedding, trigger work and a new scope, your rifle will be worth about $1100-$1200.

.....or you could sell your Browning. Buy a Bighorn Origin, new barrel, B&C Stock and all the goodies for $2400. Of course decked out is closer to $3800. There might even be a way to get that down to $2000.

 

[dogz]

Or one could just find a 8 twist Tikka T3 in a 22/250 and rock on.............snork

 

[arch408]

When I burn out, my current, 1-14 TW, Rem M-700, in .22-250 Rem,..
I WILL go to, a .22-250 AI ( I Hate Trimming, STRETCHED Brass ! ) with a 1-9 Twist bbl. to shoot, 55's up to the 73 grain, Berger's and 75 Hornady HP's, nothing "Bigger" is needed for me, as I have,.. a 6 XC for, that !
And I will GO with, a RemAge, Criterion barrel, AGAIN on my Rem 700, Short action.

Look at Shilen's new Alternut barrels!

 

[arch408]

I saw a guy ruin a stainless A-bolt rifle. He got the barrel off threaded it for a brake, but when he tried to screw the barrel back on, the threads galled and he could not fully seat the barrel in the action. They had to put a cheater bar on the action wrench to remove the barrel. The barrel and action were totaled. Anyone need an A-bolt trigger and bolt?!