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Noob R700 Barrel removal/installation questions

MtPockets

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
1,733
Location
Clarks Fork Valley, Mt
I'll start with a little background. I recently bought a used rifle from a private party. I was so excited to make the deal happen that I really didnt look it over when I picked it up.
I had been told that the gun had been sent to McGowen for a barrel replacement.
After I got it home, I noticed that there were no visible barrel markings. Because they had been in the ad, I hadnt bothered looking for them.
I took the barreled action out of the stock, and sure enough the barrel had been spun on with the markings on the bottom.
Is it plausible that McGowen would have done that? I would think they would have put it together with their name and the caliber visible, right?
Can a guy spin the barrel off, turn it 180°, and reinstall it? Or should I just leave it alone and enjoy?

Thoughts?
 
McGowen would not have left the markings on the underside. You can not turn the barrel until the markings are in the right location, This will cause the Head-Space to be either too tight or too loose depending on which direction you turned it. I would check the Head-Space anyway, It's probably not right, Sounds like someone just spun a barrel on, They obviously didn't do things right. Everyone's a "Gunsmith" these days, LOL
 
Like Harry Knutz and cohunt said something is not right.Take it to a gunsmith and let him check it out.
A gunsmith can stamp a barrel so if the stamping is on the bottom I suspect (like cohunt) a non-gunsmith put that barrel on.
I would not shoot that rifle until it was checked out by a gunsmith
 
Thank you for the responses.
I figured the barrel had to be torqued, not just turned so the stamping were correct, but I was hoping that I could spin it off, turn it 180° and spin it back on.
Thanks again!
Watch some YouTube videos on headspacing a 700 and it will give you an understanding of why people are telling you to check headspace.
 
Smith is the best route if you have one nearby.
A .308 go gage is next best route- tape can be added to determine safe headspace clearance without needing a no-go gage.

Quick and dirty- strip the bolt (special tool makes it easier, but can be done without) and insert a factory round, bolt should close with little to no resistance. Add a piece of cellophane package tape (usually around .003) trimmed to fit the back of the case and see if the bolt handle still falls with no resistance. If it does, add a second layer- bolt handle should not fall.

Make sure bolt is stripped, you don't want resistance from FP/ spring for practical (this is about "feel") and safety reasons with a live round in the chamber.
 
Smith is the best route if you have one nearby.
A .308 go gage is next best route- tape can be added to determine safe headspace clearance without needing a no-go gage.

Quick and dirty- strip the bolt (special tool makes it easier, but can be done without) and insert a factory round, bolt should close with little to no resistance. Add a piece of cellophane package tape (usually around .003) trimmed to fit the back of the case and see if the bolt handle still falls with no resistance. If it does, add a second layer- bolt handle should not fall.

Make sure bolt is stripped, you don't want resistance from FP/ spring for practical (this is about "feel") and safety reasons with a live round in the chamber.
I don't think he mentioned caliber?
 
Have it checked (the headspace). Gauges can be rented, but a 'smith is the simplest way (as long as the 'smith is knowledgeable of proper headspacing) . As mentioned above, "these days every ones a gunsmith".
 
Also, the gap between the bolt and the barrel needs to be verified. The gap need not be excessive, nor should the bolt and barrel touch. If the gap between the barrel and bolt is excessive, too much of the case can be not supported by the chamber. If the barrel and bolt can touch, accuracy will suffer. All needs to be checked-out. Anything is possible with a "home assembly".
 
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