New barrel - is it worth it?

[TheViking]

I currently have a Tikka Roughtech 6.5 PRC. It's in the process of getting a Mesa Precision stock installed and skim bedded.

Rifle is an absolute shooter. .5 MOA or less from 3 out of 4 factory loads I have put through it.

Only reason I am replacing the stock, well, it's a Tikka...not a fan of the stock.

This will be my do-all rifle - antelope, deer, elk.

I am debating on tossing a 26" proof on there, this is a 100% a want, not a need. Tikka barrels tend to run slow, and I agree based on my experience. It has sped up (50fps-ish) at around 150-200 rounds.

I'm not really gaining anything weight wise, that will scratch out. But I should gain a decent amount of speed (60-75 fps?), and since I am going after larger animals, I feel this will definitely help, probably more so on paper than real world.

Is it stupid to replace this barrel at this point?

 

[wasskeet]

If the barrel shoots well as-is, IMHO - I would leave it alone.

 

[adam32+P]

Leave it alone. Proof barrels aren't "fast" anyway.

 

[Rick Richard]

If it shoots that well CONSISTENTLY, I would leave it alone. On the other hand if you just have to "scratch an itch", look into a quality steel barrel like Bartlein…never had one that was not a shooter for accuracy.

 

[Axl]

When you replace a "shooter" barrel with a new one, 1 of 2 things will probably happen. 1) it shoots better 2) It doesn't
I'd wear that factory barrel out first.

 

[Franko21]

Don't mess with it. The barrel is already a shooter and there is no guarantee that the new barrel will shoot as well or as fast (even with an extra few inches).

 

[tracybartlein]

I am debating on tossing a 26" proof on there, this is a 100% a want, not a need. Tikka barrels tend to run slow, and I agree based on my experience. It has sped up (50fps-ish) at around 150-200 rounds.



Is it stupid to replace this barrel at this point?

To your last sentence first...if it's shooting as good as you say it is.... leave it alone. Burn up that barrel before you fork out $$ to have a new one put on.

To the other question about Tikka barrels being slow... what do you base that on?

Up to a 100fps on a good normal barrel is what I call is an average spread.

Things that affect velocity....

What spec was the chamber cut to? Factory loose spec (I don't know what spec Tikka cuts they're chambers to) but some factorys will use what is called a production spec on the chamber. This can have tolerance's +.002" over on diameters than min spec.

Is it a Saami / CIP min spec chamber?

If you get a new barrel put on is the gunsmith using a min spec. tolerance reamer or something custom... custom can mean bigger or tighter. You get a new barrel put on ask the gunsmith for a copy of the chamber reamer print so you know what was plowed into your barrel if you are not supplying the chamber reamer. That way you know what the spec is.

Bore and groove size of the barrel. This also applies to custom shops as well as factory guns/factory barrels. We hold min spec. +.0005" for tolerance on the bore and groove size. You make the bore/groove tighter by as little as a .0005" under min spec. and that will easily drive up pressures 8k to 10k psi which can drive up velocities as much as +150fps. I've seen it on actual ammunition pressure test barrels. Go the opposite way and make the barrels bore and groove bigger than min spec... drops pressure faster which in turn drops velocity.

So you have what chamber spec is being used and what is the actual barrels bore and groove spec as well.

So when someone says to me.... so and so barrels is faster and so and so barrels brand is slow.... unless you know the above... your guessing and your not comparing apples and apples.

On the barrel you need to know the dimensions of the bore/groove to the 4th decimal place. Don't tell me you pounded a lead slug down the bore and measure the slug.

Another variable is the actual load. Type of powder and type of bullet and the dimensions of the bullet. I know one manfu. match bullets are held to a given size +.0002" for tolerance. Another maker holds size +.0007" for tolerance. As the bullets are being made and bullet dies wear.... this causes the bullets to typically get bigger in size. Also the amount and type of lube being used can affect bullet diameters.

One reason a barrel speeds up is because of carbon fouling and a combination of how good you are cleaning it/how often you clean it etc..... I've seen barrels that have never sped up from the first round fired.

You (not just the op here) you as in generally speaking.... but most shooters are chasing variables that they are not even aware of that will have an affect on velocities.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

 

[zerosprk]

Given that your current barrel shoots well, the only advantage to switching that I can think of is if you want to run a faster twist. If not, shoot it until it doesn't shoot well anymore, then switch it out.

 

[lancetkenyon]

If you WANT a new CF barrel, go for it.
But, I would go Bartlein CF instead of Proof. I have seen a few different Proof barrels with issues.

I have swapped from Proof to Bartlein for my last 5 CF barrels. Couldn't be happier.

 

[26Reload]

Switch it....buy what you want..shoot it out...then put the original back on....if your planning to sell it off....

 

[Ckleeves]

I would shoot that factory Tikka barrel till it's done or you get bored with it. No reason to pull a good shooting barrel in the same chambering your buying a new barrel in.

The Proof prefits are a pretty good buy IME, especially when you get them from Stockys when they have them on sale. You're basically getting a prefit for what a carbon blank would cost anywhere else. And Proof backs their prefits better then their blanks I feel.

You never know what you're gonna end up with for velocity out a barrel either, I have a Bartlein carbon that I would bet money your tikka factory barrel is faster.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

I currently have a Tikka Roughtech 6.5 PRC. It's in the process of getting a Mesa Precision stock installed and skim bedded.

Rifle is an absolute shooter. .5 MOA or less from 3 out of 4 factory loads I have put through it.

Only reason I am replacing the stock, well, it's a Tikka...not a fan of the stock.

This will be my do-all rifle - antelope, deer, elk.

I am debating on tossing a 26" proof on there, this is a 100% a want, not a need. Tikka barrels tend to run slow, and I agree based on my experience. It has sped up (50fps-ish) at around 150-200 rounds.

I'm not really gaining anything weight wise, that will scratch out. But I should gain a decent amount of speed (60-75 fps?), and since I am going after larger animals, I feel this will definitely help, probably more so on paper than real world.

Is it stupid to replace this barrel at this point?

Leave it alone and shoot it. if you want another stock maybe just sell the rifle and start OVER!!!

I see it sometimes. A hunter has a rifle and wants it to be a One-hole or better rifle. Change the stock out, change the trigger out, then change the barrel. YOU ALREADY SPENT GOOD MONEY TOWARDS A CUSTOM RIFLE.
Just sell the rifle as is.

Then either have a GS build you a rifle or DYI.
Then figure out the cartridge you want and figure if you can get the Brass, Bullets, dies, Reamers and then the Actions (Defiance, Impact, BAT, ect),
Then order a Barrel with the correct twist for the bullet you want. then also have the powder available for the cartridge you picked.

Then a Stock of Chassis to fit everything into.

Did this several times. There are several ways to build a rifle.
We have gone with getting the components first (bullets/brass/powder/barrel/chassis/stock then the REAMER.
Everything is in place and once you chambered the barrel you can start shooting.

If you need any assistance send us a PM
Thanks
Len& Jill

 

[Damage Inc.]

What makes you think the Tikka barrel is "slow"?

 

[lancetkenyon]

To be honest, no animal in the world will feel the difference of an added 50-75fps upon impact unless you are shooting at the max range for proper expansion. Then you are only talking about adding 50-100 yards of effective range. Anything under 800-1000 yards won't make a difference. What is a couple clicks on the turret?