I did go through and measure my necks again and found no probs. But I also only load for hunting, 7mm rem mag, 243. and 22-250. all of these I am getting 1/2 in groups at 100 yds. My dies are over 4yrs old. but I wont by any more of the lee collet dies until I hear that this problem has been resolved.
Looking for press advise
- Thread starter Nikkel
- Start date
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Thanks to all that responded..It was a great help!!!
I am heading to MPLs today and have decided to start out with
a forester co ax press,
forester full length bench rest ultra dies (with built in micro)
Rcbs hand priming tool
Trimmer/ rcbs or Wilson or forster
Scale /undecided
Thanks again for all the help and any more input is welcome.
I'm excited to really get my 300 wsm in a hs precision mountain rifle shooting good groups at 600 yds. No more factory ammo for me which seems to change with every box!
I am heading to MPLs today and have decided to start out with
a forester co ax press,
forester full length bench rest ultra dies (with built in micro)
Rcbs hand priming tool
Trimmer/ rcbs or Wilson or forster
Scale /undecided
Thanks again for all the help and any more input is welcome.
I'm excited to really get my 300 wsm in a hs precision mountain rifle shooting good groups at 600 yds. No more factory ammo for me which seems to change with every box!
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
I'd opt out of the RCBS hand priming tool, and buy something like a K&M or if you want the best then buy a Sinclair hand prime tool. The Co-Ax has an excellent priming tool built into it, by the way. The Wilson trimmer is by far the best out there. Deburr the I.D.'s with a VLD reamer from Lyman. I do use the Forster trimmer head, but use it to clean primer pockets.
As for a powder measuring device, I'd start out with a cheap Lyman #55. Set it up to throw charges about one or two grains short of your load and trickle the rest into the pan on something like an RCBS 10-10. I use a PACT electronic scale 90% of the time todo the same basic thing. Nice thing about the Lyman besides the cost is that Sinclair sells a bottle adapter kit and various drop tubes to fit your needs. I'd start out with a six inch tube. The bottle adapter will allow you to simply thread the powder bottle directly to the measurer.
gary
Thanks for the heads up ooh the trimmer.
I purchased the forester press
The Forster ultra dies
The Wilson trimmer
Held off for now on the primer Tool and am going to take your advice and try out the one built into the press if it is adequate.
Now for my tumbling system, and scale.
How am I doing so far?
Thanks for the help again everyone
I purchased the forester press
The Forster ultra dies
The Wilson trimmer
Held off for now on the primer Tool and am going to take your advice and try out the one built into the press if it is adequate.
Now for my tumbling system, and scale.
How am I doing so far?
Thanks for the help again everyone
I have the cheap lee perfect powder measure to get it close then use a trickler and rcbs 10-10-10 scale to get it right on. No need for an expensive powxer measure you don't use to throw exact charges. A rcbs chargemaster would be nice but I don't use one myself.
Hunter2678
Well-Known Member
I have the co-ax, ultra seater, wilson trimmer myself..& have been nothing but consistent for me and has given me very uniform loads. You're doin good so far. As for my scale its an RCBS range master 750.
Thanks ,
feeling good so far about getting the right tools first time around. I hate spending money on upgrades. Just want the best first time around.
Do you guys think a scale that has accuracy of 1/10 grain is enough or should I go with one that breaks down to .05 (1/2 0f a tenth) rather than .10.
Maybe .05 is overkill?
Oh and digital caliper or dial type?
Thanks for more help
feeling good so far about getting the right tools first time around. I hate spending money on upgrades. Just want the best first time around.
Do you guys think a scale that has accuracy of 1/10 grain is enough or should I go with one that breaks down to .05 (1/2 0f a tenth) rather than .10.
Maybe .05 is overkill?
Oh and digital caliper or dial type?
Thanks for more help
Hunter2678
Well-Known Member
1/10 of a grain seems to be plenty for most shooters Ive talked to and know. Also be sure to use some static guard spray around your scale and loading area as it minimizes your scale's drift caused by static charges, it really works..I have a Brown&Sharpe 6 inch dial caliper that was my grandfathers so Im good to go on that. I still have good eyes so I prefer a dial caliper & no batteries to worry about..
nomad_archer
Member
Dont forget your loading manual. I have a manual and I also bought the "ABC's of reloading" which was a great book about how to reload and what to look out for. It went into much much more detail then my reloading manual.
If you want you can pick up a bullet comperator. Those help consistently measure your loaded rounds from the bullet ogive instead of the bullet tip. I picked up one made by hornady plus the anvil base which makes it really easy to measure the loaded rounds.
The scale I bought out of the gate was the rcbs chargemaster combo and I was able to use it this weekend and I couldnt be happier. It was quick and accurate. It did throw a few over charges but that could also happen with a powder trickler. Its not the machines fault H4350 is like lincoln logs and if it gets stacked up in the trickler sometimes you get a little more than expected. It was very quick though to re-throw the same charge and that was right where I wanted it. The nice thing was after I poured the charge into the case and placed the pan back on the scale. The next charge was ready before I finished seating the bullet.
Now take what I say with a grain of salt because I am still new to this and loaded my first 40 rounds this weekend for my first ladder test.
No matter what at least get a good reloading manual and consider the ABC's of reloading.
If you want you can pick up a bullet comperator. Those help consistently measure your loaded rounds from the bullet ogive instead of the bullet tip. I picked up one made by hornady plus the anvil base which makes it really easy to measure the loaded rounds.
The scale I bought out of the gate was the rcbs chargemaster combo and I was able to use it this weekend and I couldnt be happier. It was quick and accurate. It did throw a few over charges but that could also happen with a powder trickler. Its not the machines fault H4350 is like lincoln logs and if it gets stacked up in the trickler sometimes you get a little more than expected. It was very quick though to re-throw the same charge and that was right where I wanted it. The nice thing was after I poured the charge into the case and placed the pan back on the scale. The next charge was ready before I finished seating the bullet.
Now take what I say with a grain of salt because I am still new to this and loaded my first 40 rounds this weekend for my first ladder test.
No matter what at least get a good reloading manual and consider the ABC's of reloading.
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
The new ones use the sliding jaws, and mine is one of the older ones that use a modified conventional shell holder. I get a consistent .004"/.005" under the face seating. I don't know how good the sliding jaws are in the priming outfit, but others here use it. The K&M is a killer!
I use a old Midway vibratory outfit, but have often wanted a rotary tumbler. You will need a good pair of calipers for measuring, and I'd go ahead and get the Hornaday case gauge outfit (similar to the old Stoney Point gauge). Down the road you might want to opt for a NECO case gauge to help keep track of runout, but I'd wait on that one. One last thing I do is to replace the Forster lock rings with steel Lymans. The seem to float a little better and I like their set screw much better.
gary
sounds good on the Lyman lock Rings. That makes sense. Are they the same exact size? I am assuming so or you would not have suggested it. I will order some today.
I made a decision on the scale and orderd a gempro 250 t oday.
It was priced actually better(135.00)than most of the ones that are made for the reloading companies and has a accuracy of .02grains rather than .10 grains. I figured for the same price I may as well have the better accuracy and lifetime warranty. And Hey with the price of gold I figure that a jewlers scale has got to be a very accurate one.
I will also order the book that was mentioned for beginners and a reloading manuel. Any Ideas on a manuel. It seems that they are all written by bullet companies that want to sell their bullets. Cant blame em for that but I do want to know all my options and best loads for different bullets.
Thanks again for the help. It has helped me make some good decisions.
Now for the tumbler system?
I made a decision on the scale and orderd a gempro 250 t oday.
It was priced actually better(135.00)than most of the ones that are made for the reloading companies and has a accuracy of .02grains rather than .10 grains. I figured for the same price I may as well have the better accuracy and lifetime warranty. And Hey with the price of gold I figure that a jewlers scale has got to be a very accurate one.
I will also order the book that was mentioned for beginners and a reloading manuel. Any Ideas on a manuel. It seems that they are all written by bullet companies that want to sell their bullets. Cant blame em for that but I do want to know all my options and best loads for different bullets.
Thanks again for the help. It has helped me make some good decisions.
Now for the tumbler system?
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
The Lyman rings are about .005" thinner than the Forster ones. After finding the proper headspace during the sizing operation, loosen the lockring but don't move it. Just retighten it to square everything thing up. I also run my sliding jaws kinda loose (the only thing they do is to pull the sized case out of the die anyway. Put two or three thousandths of shim stock under the guide bars to make everything flex a little more.How much it helps I can't say for sure, but it allows even more movement in the case head to help align itself with the die.
When you get your new dies (whatever brand you opt for) take them apart and give them a serious cleaning. Then lube them with some very light weight spindle oil (Rem Oil works well). The seater is a little different. I lube the outside with light oil, but I use powdered graphite in the sleeve. Lastly; buy a tin of Imperial Die Sizing Wax, and forget about all the other case lubes.
gary
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
when you start to setup the sizing die, read the instructions carefully. The location of the sizing ball on the stem is kinda important. But once set it never is moved again. When you first start to seat a bullet, try to set the micrometer dial about midway in it's travel. This will allow you to be able to adjust much easier.
I think you'll do well
gary
