Loading manual data differing

lots of people had it around and didn't even handload but were from that generation that never threw anything away. They either gave it to me or sold it for very cheap
It's still weird to me when I see stuff like 30-06 or 300 WM or really just anything other than 223 and pistol cartridges sitting in the brass bucket at the range. I have a bunch of 30-06 and 308 brass and don't even own one. I look at it like, well if you want to just throw it away I might just have to end up with one of those, there's always a bunch of cartridges that I'd prefer more that I could turn it into too. I've also sourced a lot of my 223 and 9mm brass that way too. Even before I started reloading there was no way I was going to just throw my brass away. Maybe I'm older in my mind than my body.
 
It's still weird to me when I see stuff like 30-06 or 300 WM or really just anything other than 223 and pistol cartridges sitting in the brass bucket at the range. I have a bunch of 30-06 and 308 brass and don't even own one. I look at it like, well if you want to just throw it away I might just have to end up with one of those, there's always a bunch of cartridges that I'd prefer more that I could turn it into too. I've also sourced a lot of my 223 and 9mm brass that way too. Even before I started reloading there was no way I was going to just throw my brass away. Maybe I'm older in my mind than my body.
folks be throwing out .300 win brass!!!??😱
 
I've been that way since I was a kid, any brass no matter the cartridge/caliber was picked-up….though my accumulation was pretty slow, as my trips to an actual shooting range in my 70 years can be counted on one hand! So, I don't have as much as I should/could! memtb


It's still weird to me when I see stuff like 30-06 or 300 WM or really just anything other than 223 and pistol cartridges sitting in the brass bucket at the range. I have a bunch of 30-06 and 308 brass and don't even own one. I look at it like, well if you want to just throw it away I might just have to end up with one of those
 
folks be throwing out .300 win brass!!!??😱
Yes they do. I have collected 300 Win Mag, .308, 45-70, 30-06. 300BLK, and most recently 60 rounds of 6.5 Creedmoor brass. Not to mention a bunch of different pistol brass from the range I shoot at. If I shoot it I deprime it, anneal it, and separate it for future sizing and use. I guess salvaging brass is my version of dumpster diving :)
 
I know some of the LRH members have quite a collection of manuals. Like others have stated the variability of test rifles and components can have a fairly significant impact on charge levels. Some shooters are very adept at reading pressure, but some are less able to accurately read pressure signs. I wish there was a true comprehensive source out there with the equipment and resources to scientifically test and publish results for reloaders. A good Chrono and meticulous observation while working up charges is the only way I know to find the right load combination.
I look at Manuals as a starting point. After selection of Powder & Bullet combo i go directly to looking at pressure & velocity, bolt lift & case observation to see how much powder i got to play with. Then the accuracy game is on.
 
Of all the manuals I have,I use Hornady manuals the least.Their data is all over the place.Velocities are listed in 50fps increments and no pressure listings.A manual is just a guide.Like the page from the Hornady manual,one of those has ten bullets pictured for the load data listed.Those bullets are not going to have the same pressure and velocity with the same load.If you don't have a chronograph,get one.It's a valuable tool.I study a lot of different load data and start a couple of grains below max load listed and work my way up.Watch your velocities and pressure signs.When you get close to the velocities listed for the same barrel length of your rifle and your getting good accuracy,you know you are getting close to where you should be.One of the best reference manuals I like is the Lee Modern Reloading Manual.It is a copy paste load data from a lot of different manuals.It kinda like having a bunch of manuals in one.There is a lot of online data you can get for free too.Here is a few of them.
 
Considering liability laws, I would definitely say it is a pressure issue. Like most reloader's, I have several manuals of which I haven't referred to any in the last 15 -20 years for the charge information. About the only time I will reference one of them is when I can't find the caliber and specific bullet on the company web site load data. I prefer Nosler Load Data but often have to search others for various powders.
 
I like the Hammer manual, oh wait, I'm missing that one. Nosler has been my go to for the most part. Although, I check as many as I can to start my loads. Sometimes for those of us that want to get great speed out of a particular load, those shiny ejector marks can be a bit depressing.
 
I check 6-7 loading guides and average all the charges out for a given pwdr/bullet combo. This is my starting point. I am on vacation right now, so I can't check the various Sierra loading books. But recall that for several editions, for the cartridges I shoot, the loads and velocity were the exact same. I called and asked them if they test each load for each new reloading book. They said yes…I asked then how is it possible to have the exact same velocity when it is years apart in testing. Crickets….

I do miss Sierra's online and app reloading guides.
 
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I haven't bought any manuals since I bought Quickload.

Quickload, with good capacity data from fire-formed cases, actual COAL you're going to use, your own rifle's bbl length, coupled with an accurate chrono has worked very well for me.
 
I haven't bought any manuals since I bought Quickload.

Quickload, with good capacity data from fire-formed cases, actual COAL you're going to use, your own rifle's bbl length, coupled with an accurate chrono has worked very well for me.
I have to agree with you about Quickload.I have some data run for me with my barrel length,bullet,case,powders,primers and find it amazing close in velocities when checked with my Magnetospeed.Knowing where your at and when to stop with your loads is really important to the loader.
 
Right now, start low and adjust because you will need to make and start storing ammo in private places. Nato as you know we are a member of are drafting laws in an effort to reduce all stock piling of ammo and weapons for all NATO nations. Right now, there legal wording for ammo stock piling refers to the military but wording for stockpile could be viewed as 1 million rounds or even 25 rounds. the legal terminology are being defined over the next year or two. If passed into NATO law for all nations how long before it's passed into federal law or state. Better hope for a new president in 2024 one that will not go along with NATO the one in office right now will.
 
So I'm loading for my tikka 300 wsm. I'm using 178 ELDx and H4350. Well at the bench tonight I looked at 2 different Hornady manuals to see what primer they recommend in their tests. While looking I referenced load data for 178-180 grain bullets. 10th edition list max at 63.4 H4350 and the 9th edition lists 65.2. Just wondering if any of you guys ever notice data changes over time with companies. I've often wondered why that is. I'm assuming lawyers have something to do with it and maybe marketing.
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I think in general all bullet and powder manufactures have reduced there charge weights due to health and safety issues and possible litigation.
 
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