Kinda dumb question

Craig H.

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Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
My load is calculated to be zero at 400 yards, and 3.2 inches high at 50 yards. We have a indoor range with a distance of 50 yards. If I set the group to be the 3.2 inches high at 50 yards will that work for being zero at 400, or should I go to a longer distance range, like 100 or 200 yards to set the scope?
 
Most guys zero in at 100 yards, thats what I would recommend for most calibers. What are you shooting? Caliber and ammo wise?
Problem with zeroing high at 50 is you will be way too high at 100 to 300 yards.
You would need a rangefinder and a scope with adjustable turrets to make that work.
 
If your calculations of drop are correct that should work. I did the same with my 6.5-300 and set my zero at 100 yards at 2.5" high so that I was zeroed at 300 yards. Obviously, I'd suggest that you verify that it's actually correct at those yards at 100, 200, 300, and your zero of 400. When I did mine, it was done correctly; but I won't shoot an animal unless I am dialled for that distance so I verified and then practiced so I could hit every distance reliably.

God bless!
 
The problem I find with sighting in at that close a yardage is you have to be exact. At that range you should be putting your bullets into one hole. Even if your bullet holes are touching vertically you're already .2" off. Now how will that transfer out to 400 yds - or even 200 for that matter.
 
2" high at 100

4 ft target at 400. Shoot. Work from there
 
Zeroed: Mine are set depending on game,country and what am capable of hitting and distance I will be shooting at ? Woods-open country-brush-hills etc etc.Don't need a 7mm Rem mag if hunting in heavy woods or brush country a short 30-30 0r 35 Rem or 44mag rifle or maybe a slug gun, or even a pistol would work if one can place the shot. Remember its bullet placement that counts. Open country on Deer a 25-06 would do or a 6.5 ( 264 Win Mag etc ) Guess what;s in your gun cabinet would also help in making a decision on what to use or range one willing to go and get a ONE SHOT KILL!!!!! Also have to remember state laws are different in each state so check the LAWS first. ( as to calibers ETC ETC ). Have hunted using a 17 Rem up to a 338 Lapua and 30-30, 32 win,44-40,357;s,44 mag,454 casual,45 colt,460 S&W plus others again where one is and what you hunting. I was lucky had a 125 acre camp and between my neighbors had over some 3500 acres.
Not counting on hunting above the tree lines-Good luck this hunting season and shot straight and often !!
 
3.2" high at 50???

Depending on your bullet, BC, and MV...

That is something like 13" high at 260 yards at bullet flight apex.
Zero at 480 yds.

That is a miss over the vitals (+8" and higher from POA) of most game animals from 110 to 400 yards.

That makes zero sense.
Screenshot_20251109_152510_Shooter.jpg
 
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-4.19 MOA at 250, and -6.88 at 100. well within my scopes ability.
If you have usable subtensions for holdover and holdunder, then a 200 yard zero, or even 250 zero, and holdOVERS to 500 makes more sense.

You would still need to range and hold either over or under. The zero information you gave is not a MPBR solution, as you are way over vital elevation from 110 to 400 yards.
 
Most guys zero in at 100 yards, thats what I would recommend for most calibers. What are you shooting? Caliber and ammo wise?
Problem with zeroing high at 50 is you will be way too high at 100 to 300 yards.
You would need a rangefinder and a scope with adjustable turrets to make that work.
This^^^^^
 
How does this apply to the Ops question?
He is obviously asking how to zero his rifle. And where will it impact down range.

Simply set your poi 2" high at 100 yards, then shoot down range.

Calculations are just that, calculations. Holes in paper are reality.

That's how it applies
 
This^^^^^
OP, would you kindly provide the info on the caliber of your rifle, and the type, weight and expected velocity you will achieve woth your load so we can dispell myths and inaccurate statements on what my/may not work.
There is no doubt that your theory is correct. Actual trajectory numbers need to be verified, but if the data says that you need to be (x.x)" high at 50 yards to be zero at a longer distance, you can adjust to that 50 yard distance above aim point, and shoot at 50 yards to get that set up.
As stated above, you have to be exact, as small errors at 50 yds will translate to much larger errors at 300 yds.

Also remember that each click of your scope (assuming it is a 1/4 moa per click scope) will only yield 1/8" movement on target at 50 yds

Lastly, you really need to verify your results at actual ranges, whenever possible.
 
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