Galled brass

[drpbroun5]

I have just begun to learn to neck turn brass. I am told that the first attempt resulted in galled brass. I did lubricate the mandrel and necks. I used a graphite lube on some and Imperial wax on others. Have I ruined the brass? Do I discard? Is there a fix ? If so, what? I first expanded the necks with a Sinclair expaning manderal. I then turned the brass using a turning manderal. I used a power screwdriver to turn them. I used a Sinclair neck turner. Some did get hot but not all. What do I do from here? Thanks.

Paul

 

[Mikecr]

Do you mean the insides of necks are galling?
Are the necks a tight fit?
Are the necks and mandrels clean and smooth?
Are you taking alot off with each turn?

Also, I wouldn't use a dry film lubricant, and I've never found die 'wax' to work well for anything really.
I've used Mobil1 without issue, and let the turner body rest in a shallow bowl of alcohol for a minute between cases(for cooling). You must keep it all clean, and re-lube the turning mandrel everytime.

If you've galled your turning mandrel, you might put in an order for another. Maybe spring for the carbide option.

 

[drpbroun5]

It is the brass that is galled, whatever that means. What does it mean? Is it retrievable? I think the mandrels are OK. How do I know? How do you apply the Mobile 1? Is there a trick in ajusting the cutter on the Sinclair turner? I am using a feeler guage. I have just set the gap at what gives me the correct neck wall thickness. This takes a lot of tries to get it right. There must be an easier way. Thanks.

Paul

 

[dieseldoc]

I use Sinclair NT-1000 neck turning kit and it's design is for hand turning and not use of power screw driver.
I think what is happing by using the power driver you are spinning the brass to fast and it's heating up on the mandrels thus causing the galling.
Also I always anneal my brass before neck turning so the brass is softer and it doesn't take much effort to skim the necks.

Charlie