frankinaction

bdlesh

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Hello to all!

I was wondering if you were building a new bolt action, what parts from others would you use to create the ultimate action? It seems like everyone has one thing or another that isn't favorable.
 
These are my thoughts. Let's say stocks weren't a problem, and could be available from B&C, HS, McMillan, Manners, etc. for this action, already inletted, and not have to be custom made. I would want a Remington 700 receiver design, with the round action, same overall length in short and long actions, Remington tang, and using Remington 700 triggers. The magazine well would be machined to accept a 3" OAL short action mag box, and a 4" OAL long action mag box. I would want a 3 position safety, side bolt release, and a safety that blocked the actual firing pin and not just the sear in the trigger. Integral 20 MOA rail. A one piece, 3 lug bolt with a M16 style extractor, plunger ejector, and has the bolt face extend past the lugs to have the 3 rings of steel like on a 700 with full case head support. The 3 lugs would have at least the same surface area and overall strength as the 2 lugs on the 700. I would want the receiver diameter to be 0.100 larger than the Remington 700, along with the receiver threads to be 1.125" with 20 threads to the inch compared the 700's 1.062x16 threads. These larger, stronger threads matched with the larger diameter action would allow for use of the .338 Lapua sized cartridges without issues. The thread pitch would also allow for the use of Savage Large Shank pre-fit barrels. Pinned recoil lug to allow alignment during barrel installations, and a separate recoil lug would cut down on machine time and material waste compared to a lug built into the action. All machined on a 5 axis CNC to within 0.0002" with excellent surface finish, perfect primary extraction, and timing.
 
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These are my thoughts. Let's say stocks weren't a problem, and could be available from B&C, HS, McMillan, Manners, etc. for this action, already inletted, and not have to be custom made. I would want a Remington 700 receiver design, with the round action, same overall length in short and long actions, Remington tang, and using Remington 700 triggers. The magazine well would be machined to accept a 3" OAL short action mag box, and a 4" OAL long action mag box. I would want a 3 position safety, side bolt release, and a safety that blocked the actual firing pin and not just the sear in the trigger. Integral 20 MOA rail. A one piece, 3 lug bolt with a M16 style extractor, plunger ejector, and has the bolt face extend past the lugs to have the 3 rings of steel like on a 700 with full case head support. The 3 lugs would have at least the same surface area and overall strength as the 2 lugs on the 700. I would want the receiver diameter to be 0.100 larger than the Remington 700, along with the receiver threads to be 1.125" with 20 threads to the inch compared the 700's 1.062x16 threads. These larger, stronger threads matched with the larger diameter action would allow for use of the .338 Lapua sized cartridges without issues. The thread pitch would also allow for the use of Savage Large Shank pre-fit barrels. Pinned recoil lug to allow alignment during barrel installations, and a separate recoil lug would cut down on machine time and material waste compared to a lug built into the action. All machined on a 5 axis CNC to within 0.0002" with excellent surface finish, perfect primary extraction, and timing.
About perfect right there except the rem bolt nose, it makes everything suck and weakens the bolt nose more than it does good, far better to have a good gas dumping strategy.
 
About perfect right there except the rem bolt nose, it makes everything suck and weakens the bolt nose more than it does good, far better to have a good gas dumping strategy.
I learn something new everyday. So scratch out the Remington bolt nose. In saying that, I think an extractor built into one of the lugs, like on a Savage, would be idea. In case of a failure, the extractor would have more support in the lug I feel like.
 
The Mausingfeild is a perfect example of putting a lot of other parts together but not kowing how they should work together to make a simple perfectly functioning action that is easily serviceable with a minimum of parts. I hate to lug situation because you can't square them up quick when one doesn't have all the lugs touching so normal lugs is way better.
 
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I think this action is already made: Tikka T3

The only thing I'd change, would be for the safety to be on the tang. That's where God meant for it to be, right? Otherwise, he wouldn't have put our thumb where he did ;)

Heck, since we are 'dreaming' might as well put a 20 MOA picatinny rail 'built into' the top of the gun, so no bases to mount (and have come loose.)
 
I appreciate all the input. I am novice at best and was wondering which parts combined would make the best action and why. I do know that this differs from person to person.
I own several Ruger 77's , a few Rem700's and Sako Finbear. I don't have any complaints of any of them. I am either missing something or easy to please. I am now looking for a action for my first build and can't make my mind up. Do I go all out and use a custom? or just get a 700 and have it trued. I bounce back and forth on, "I just need something to hold a barrel and stock" to "I want something really nice and unique. In the grand scheme of things the cost isn't that much different. Especially if I consider it will be mine.

Thanks for the help!
 
Hey bdlesh,
I'm with you. I have Ruger 77s (tang safety models); I have Rem 700s; I have a Tikka T3; I have a Montana Rifle Company X3 w/the 1999 action (like a Win Model 70 and Mauser 98 had a baby), and I like 'em all! As long as a gun 'works' and shoots well, I have no real complaints.

If you are looking to 'go custom' and aren't just swimming in money, the best bet is the Remington 700 action as your starting point. There are just so many custom parts and pieces available for it, you can't go wrong. It is a fantastic "base" action to work from.

If you ARE swimming in money, there are tons of custom actions that are basically Rem 700 clones with various upgrades and improvements.

But a lot of people just get an old Savage and build from there. They are capable of awesome accuracy and you can pull and replace barrels yourself with tools from Brownells. Fun!

The world is your oyster. What EXCITES you the most? What do YOU want? Accuracy? Light weight? A compromise in between for a do-it-all kinda gun? Once you figure out what you want the gun to DO for you, then it is easier to figure out everything else. If you do something you really like, then it is 'right' because it is for you and you are the one that needs to be happy with it.
 
Hey Frog4aday, Thanks for the info!
I am wanting to build a rifle for a once in a lifetime (but I hope it isn't my Last) elk hunt. I have several that would work just fine, Nut like a woman needing and new dress for the Church social, A new one would be better....at least that's what I keep telling myself.
with all that said, I have narrows it down to a .338 caliber and strongly leaning towards a 338 Sherman short or max. I really like having something out of the ordinary, not a shelf item. I know I can't find ammo in a vending machine in Denver or Anchorage. I has taken only about a year to come to this conclusion. So I still have a bit to figure out and here is the place that will barrow it all down. The experience found here is second to none. This is online learning at its best!
 
I tend to choose components starting with the bullet, then the cartridge that I want to launch said projectile and that gives you a foundation to work from so when your done you have a function rifle that does what you intended.
The 338 SS or MAX are good examples, I've thought a lot about the 338 SS so this is my thinking, only bullet that really interests me is the 250 Berger so I want more than 3 inches in my mag. I'm into budget builds so I'd grab a Tikka since I like detachable mags and the Tikka is just a simple and straight action that I can push out the length on an SS or MAX with no issues. Then I go with a stock and barrel, this would be a 0-800 yard elk rifle not a long range rifle but an everyday in the truck gun, probably a #5 which is heavy but in a 338 its light but enough weight it holds well. Id figure out how to get one into a Manners EH5.
Another twist would be a Defiance med length action or a Montana 1999 WSM with give you 3.2 mag box to work with if you wanted control round feed. Any way that's how I decide from the bullet and case up so I end up with a rifle that is build for a job.
 
The Mausingfeild is a perfect example of putting a lot of other parts together but not kowing how they should work together to make a simple perfectly functioning action that is easily serviceable with a minimum of parts. I hate to lug situation because you can't square them up quick when one doesn't have all the lugs touching so normal lugs is way better.

You keep saying that the Mausingfield is a poorly designed collection of parts but never elaborate as to what on it is so poorly designed that it's an issue?

The toroidal lugs are so far the only thing you have mentioned but I'm getting 1/4 MOA or less out of mine when I do my part. Not sure how much more accurate it needs to be for a field rifle so I doubt lapping the lugs is even necessary.
 
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