Expander mandrels

[.7mm.]

Looking into setting neck tension with an expander mandrel and I've got a few questions...
Can I use the 21st nitride mandrels without lube? Or is it just a mandatory part of the process?
If so then what is the advantages of using their nitride mandrels

Also is 2 thou enough? Or should I get the stainless steel mandrels that are 2.5 thousandths under bullet diameter to account for brass spring back

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Looking into setting neck tension with an expander mandrel and I've got a few questions...
Can I use the 21st nitride mandrels without lube? Or is it just a mandatory part of the process?
If so then what is the advantages of using their nitride mandrels

Also is 2 thou enough? Or should I get the stainless steel mandrels that are 2.5 thousandths under bullet diameter to account for brass spring back

You need to theoretically go 1.5 thousandths under bullet diameter to account for about 1/2 a thousandth of spring back.
Example for a 6.5mm cartridge, you would use a .2625" mandrel which would provide .002" of interference after the neck moved inward as the mandrel was withdrawn.

 

[Phil Rizzo]

I do use lube for the 21st Century Mandrels.
Hornady one shot over-spray same time as the cases get it before shoulder bump.

I've never used a nitrided model. Might be missing out?

 

[NW NM hunter]

I use 21st century, I called them directly and asked the question you did. They recommend lube on either. They have a powder and media that should last a very long time as a little goes a long ways.

 

[Barehandlineman11]

Molly it

 

[.7mm.]

I use 21st century, I called them directly and asked the question you did. They recommend lube on either. They have a powder and media that should last a very long time as a little goes a long ways.

Then whats the advantage to the nitride?

 

[NW NM hunter]

Then whats the advantage to the nitride?

I think it holds up better or longer I can't remember, but after talking to them I decided I didn't need the nitride for the amount of reloading I do. I do have a friend that has the nitride and doesn't lube and does ok, but above is what they told me directly.

 

[Barehandlineman11]

Nitride helps but wheres off. Lube the neck, help make mandrel not gall up and scratch brass. Smoothes things out also makes it more consistent. I like using molly put it in case again before i seat the bullet

 

[NW NM hunter]

I just went and looked and I use their moly powder per their recommendation and no it doesn't have to be removed. But again if you use it a little goes a long ways.

 

[Phil Rizzo]

I started using moly when I realized it was taking 50-60lbs to seat bullets with my arbor

 

[Barehandlineman11]

I seat with a amp aeater and pretty crazy how much more molly helps in consistency

 

[Phil Rizzo]

Annealing, bushing and mandrel only go so far. The 50-60 number is virgin brass following a .263 mandrel and using a .264 Berger. With a VLD chamfer.
Im a fan of moly now.

 

[FEENIX]

I use 21st century, I called them directly and asked the question you did. They recommend lube on either. They have a powder and media that should last a very long time as a little goes a long ways.

This! I, too, have them, SS and Nitrided. They recommend using https://21stcenturyinnovation.com/buy-online/ols/products/moly-dry-neck-lube for all their mandrel and arbors.

Then whats the advantage to the nitride?

 

[Pdyson]

for quite awhile I used sizing wax lube for the outside then powdered neck lube for the neck, which was way too messy and time consuming. So I went back to spraying one-shot… but after a few thousand rounds of that I got tired of washing them again to get the lube off and to stop the powder from sticking to the neck. Then a buddy told me about NEO LUBE #1 liquid. I apply it to the inside of my case necks with a foam swab. One dip in the liquid is enough to do about 5-10 cases and it dries in a second. I apply it prior to expanding and I leave it in the case neck for bullet seating…powder won't stick to it and it helps to maintain a consistent bullet seating force and it prevents cold-welding of the bullet to the brass. I ran a 40-round test in my 6arc (20 with and 20 without) and it improved my ES and SD enough to convince me to permanently add it to my process. I'm on my 2nd bottle of the stuff and I use it on all my guns. You can buy it on Amazon

Neolube No. 1 (COLLOIDAL GRAPHITE IN ISOPROPANOL) is a dry film, conductive lubricant, used extensively at nuclear power generating plants and other nuclear facilities as an anti-seize compound, thread lubricant and for lubricating moving parts and rubbing surfaces.
The composition of this material is 99% pure furnace graphite particles, a thermoplastic resin and isopropanol. The material has excellent radiation resistance and high chemical purity. The thin, non-corrosive film of Neolube No. 1 prevents seizing, fretting, galling and resists abrasion. It is easy to apply by spray, dip or brush and has excellent adhesion after a fast air dry.