Advice an input for those who reload for 308 Winchester and own 10FCP rifles

DartonJager

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I am about to FINALLY get an adequate scope to shoot longer range with my 24" heavy contour 5R barreled 308/W Savage 10FCP SR. A full year ago found myself in a pinch of sorts and had to use it for deer season for myself and allow my son to use my T3. I simply didn't have time to buy dies and make my own loads before opening day, so I opted for instead using Federal Power Shock ammo because it's on line reviews were nothing short of stellar and it was by coincidence the rock bottom cheapest 308 ammo suitable for deer hunting I could find, surprisingly OTC near my home.

Thankfully the federal ammo not only lived up to the hype but actually exceeded it by giving me .5 MOA and even smaller 100 and 200 yard groups. I have amassed and presorted Winchester brass and also have 200 pieces of Lapua brass. I have on hand Forster BR/FL sizing die, Redding body only sizing die, Lee collet die and a Forster MM/BR bullet seating die. I will use Imperial dry neck lube prior to bullet seating.

I have both IMR 4064 and IMR 4166 Enduron and Federal 210 GMM LRG/RFL primers. I plan on trying both powders and let my rifle select the winner.

Even though I have been reloading for over 25 years I have a few questions and requests for advice.

First off considering the 180 grain Federal Power Shock shot so very well should I take a loaded round and use its length measurement from the ogive to base as my starting point of bullet seating depth with my 175 SMKHP's? I have a Caldwell chrono I will use to help find performance nodes.

Lastly could someone who reloads 308 Winchester share with me their step by step reloading process they use to achieve maximum consistent reloads so I can compare them to mine

Thanks a great deal,
Art.
 
Thank you moose That's pretty much where I start with all my reloads 10/1000s off the lands or max length allowed by mag which ever allows a longer starting point.
I'm just looking out side of my usual SOP to see if I can improve my reloading.
 
The 180 Federal is a much different bullet than the 175gr SMK. You are on the right path with components. I would first find the lands in your rifle with the 175s and back off .020 and go from there. If you are wanting to run your ammo from the magazine, then measure your magazine length and back off .020 and start your seating depth there.
 
Thank you moose That's pretty much where I start with all my reloads 10/1000s off the lands or max length allowed by mag which ever allows a longer starting point.
I'm just looking out side of my usual SOP to see if I can improve my reloading.
Of course CFE223 wins the speed race. I get excellent accuracy with it, but mag box length was always an issue. If you have some CFE223 give it a try also.
 

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I load for a savage with a 5r factory barrel too - model 10T - 20"

I neck size using a Lee collet (no lube needed) unless they are in need of a FL size. If they are, I use Hornady one shot and the Lee FL sizer. BUT - since you have a body die, use it instead so you don't overwork the neck, then use the Lee collet to neck size and decap.

I don't tumble or sonic clean - lots of guys do - I prefer to have some residual carbon inside the neck which I believe results in more consistent neck release.

I use a Frankford Arsenal universal hand primer adjusted to seat primers recessed about 2 thou.

I like 4064 for 175's as well as CFE223 and my old standby BL-C(2) which shoots as well as it meters ... like silk.
 
My son's Savage 12FV with 26" heavy barrel loves 175 gr Nosler Custom Competition BTHP with 41.7 gr of IMR-4064, Fed 210M primer,
federal case. Also likes the newer Nosler 175 gr RDF. I full length size the cases because we have 4 different .308's between us, and once had to pay a gunsmith to remove the barrel of a Weatherby .223 that someone tried to force a round that had been neck sized for a Remington 700 into the chamber. His Savage shot very well before he dropped it into a chassis. It shoots even better now.
 
I load for a savage with a 5r factory barrel too - model 10T - 20"

I neck size using a Lee collet (no lube needed) unless they are in need of a FL size. If they are, I use Hornady one shot and the Lee FL sizer. BUT - since you have a body die, use it instead so you don't overwork the neck, then use the Lee collet to neck size and decap.

I don't tumble or sonic clean - lots of guys do - I prefer to have some residual carbon inside the neck which I believe results in more consistent neck release.

I use a Frankford Arsenal universal hand primer adjusted to seat primers recessed about 2 thou.

I like 4064 for 175's as well as CFE223 and my old standby BL-C(2) which shoots as well as it meters ... like silk.
Please forgive me because I disagree with your reloading process at the moment. I'm going to take your advice and try it. I have always wet tumbled my brass and bumped the shoulder back in my brass just enough to closes bolt with minimum resistance. I'm going to try your method. I forgot about BL-C(2). That was another powder I tried. Speeds compatible to CFE223, but my SD was in the 20's. Great read thanks.
 
Daughter now owns my FV-SR, 308 26" heavy barrel.
One of the most accurate loads I put together as a joke to empty out a box of Rem 125 PSPs, seated to the cannelure, ~70 thou off the lands, on top of AA2230. She would put 5 shots inside a dime (OD) at 100.
Point is, it's a very forgiving rifle and you'll probably find many nodes that shoot lights out.
 
Curious why many here are working loads off their lands with an SMK?
SMK's tend to be fine with jump so why not just load to mag length and call it a day?
 
4064 or 4895 over 175, with 210m primers is a time tested combo and should do well.

For bolt rifles I would generally.

Decap
Ultrasonic clean so primer pockets are gtg.
Anneal
Neck size, and shoulder bump of 1 thou for easily closing of the bump.
Load and go.

Trim when they get long. Chamber and debur after trim.
 
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