6.5-06 Ackley Improved

Somewhat of a group build starting here. Myself and a couple buddies all have long action standard bolt face R700 receivers to use. We all own 280 AIs and are familiar with the AIs and fireforming. We want to make a .264 of sorts for long range target shooting and hunting. Wondering what your experiences have been with standard bolt face, long action cartridges in 6.5 have been. I'm aware of the 6.5 Sherman, but think that availability of reasonably priced/quality brass leans in favor of the Ackley. CH4D offers dies for the Ackley for as little as $140 for full custom or $110 for "standard" 6.5-06 improved. Just fishing for ideas and experiences in this arena. The 6.5-284 Norma was also brought up for discussion. I know Lapua makes brass for it too. For those that did build and shoot the 6.5-06 AI, what brass did you use and why? Thanks!!
I have two 6.5x280 Ackley rifles, one with a 25" Bartlien 1:8" twist barrel on a Montana 1999 action and the other has a 24" 1:8" twist Black Hole Weaponry barrel on a Savage 111 action.
I load for both on a set of regular Redding "S" bushing .280AI dies with the appropriate bushings.
I use .270 brass and everything except one load with Barnes 127gr LRX & IMR7977 uses standard Large Rifle Primers. That IMR7977 uses LRM primers to get the best accuracy.
I love the caliber for everything from coyotes on up. A 100gr Ballistic Tip @ 3,500fps will mess up a coyote!
It has been very easy to work up loads for these rifles.

Ed
 
I agree with using 280 Ackley brass necked down. I believe the positives of less fireforming resulting in barrel wear and component usage outweighs and perceived negatives of using similar brass to other calibers you currently have.
I will talk to the guys about this. I have heard nothing but good things about the Peterson 280AI brass, other than being hard to find.
 
Ive had a 6.5-06ai for years....love it...absolutely no kick, but significant performance. You'll love it....it's different enough from the 280ai that you'll not see it as just a slimmed down 280...it's it's own caliber. Awesome Antelope round. I shoot 130 Barnes TTSX, and now 127LRX.
I just used Nosler 30-06 brass and necked down to 6.5 and then fireformed. Simple.
 
I had a 6.5-06 built about 20 years ago, on a Mauser military action with a Douglas barrel. I could never get it to shoot worth a darn, and finally last year had it re-chambered to 6.5 Creedmoor. It still doesn't shoot worth a darn. Don't know what I'm doing wrong, but it just sits in the safe now. Too old to mess with rifles that don't shoot.
 
I had a 6.5-06 built about 20 years ago, on a Mauser military action with a Douglas barrel. I could never get it to shoot worth a darn, and finally last year had it re-chambered to 6.5 Creedmoor. It still doesn't shoot worth a darn. Don't know what I'm doing wrong, but it just sits in the safe now. Too old to mess with rifles that don't shoot.
I found Douglas barrels to be a 50/50 proposition and quit using them 20 years ago sounds like you hit on the wrong side of the 50/50
 
I am presently having a 6mm/280AI being built. I was going to use a 06.270, 25/06 case and there is a few others that will work for overall dimensions. The main reason why I move to the 280AI case was because it was a little longer to the shoulder, than the others. I figured a little more powder couldn't hurt. (maybe wrong too) I am using a 700R LA action. I spent almost a year trying to get 280AI cases in Peterson Brass and I got them now. I now have 4 280AI dies. Not into changing out the bushing every step. I am using a 280AI Redding bushing die to reduce the neck. It take about 4 steps to get there. Now I have several 25/06's that I load for. What I did there to determine what case went where. I use 06,270, and 25/06 cases, and I believe that 7mm Mauser will work too. That way I could see what it was stamped to determine what rifle it went into.
Now I am a little concerned about fire forming 06 cases into 280AI case, because of the length different from base to shoulder. It may not be a problem and work just fine. I haven't cross that bridge yet. I am going to here shortly.
If you are using new brass. Cut to length or same length, Turn the necks first, then size down. That way were you put the stop. The necks will all the same. If there any uneven necks, it should be on the outside of the neck. Once fire cases that are not thinned it's the other way around.
No load data yet. That's to come after fire forming and brake in.
 
Okay, a follow-on question for those of you running the 6.5-280AI. What kind of neck length do you get with finished, fire formed brass? More or less than the 280AI neck? I'm a firm believer in long, straight necks being an asset to accuracy, especially when loading the long, heavy for caliber bullets to a maximum magazine length.
 
I have an 6.5-06 Ackley that I love. When I built it I was flush with 30-06 brass so that is what I used and still use. When you neck down brass the wall of neck is thick, so I bought a .262'' inside neck reamer from Forster. After reaming the necks I trim them to length. To fireform them I use the cream-of-wheat method (magnum pistol primer, Bullseye pistol powder, cream of wheat, and a 1/4 of a sheet of toilet paper). I've never lost a case using this method and it isn't wasting bullets or shortening barrel life. Your barrel is dirty after but it cleans up easily.
 
Don't worry about the forming brass thing with Lapua 06 brass, you need rounds on the barrel to get serious about load development anyway.
If your looking for longer necks the 6.5x06AI is the one.
 
the 6.5x280ai using nosler brass is a piece of cake. Get the competition dies from Redding you only need to change the neck bushing. The 7 mm seater works fine with 6.5
 
Like was said above, you might look in to the 6.5 RPM. Would be a SAAMI spec round with some factory ammo and good brass. We are getting 3120 with 156s out of a 25 inch barrel. Just a thought
 
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