280 AI build questions

If you go with 280AI, find some Peterson brass and give it a try.
Nosler brass has been giving me donut and neck wall problems that I have had to eliminate.
As for the barrel, 26", brake of your choice as mine is a 3 port and I can still stay on target well enough to make simple adjustments to get back on the mark. Recoil is really manageable.
It's a great cartridge that gets close to 7RM velocities for a good hunting bullet. Mine is 3100 with a 145 grain mono I'm working with.
Most people report easy load development (except me, lol, due to brass.......)
 
If you go with 280AI, find some Peterson brass and give it a try.
Nosler brass has been giving me donut and neck wall problems that I have had to eliminate.
As for the barrel, 26", brake of your choice as mine is a 3 port and I can still stay on target well enough to make simple adjustments to get back on the mark. Recoil is really manageable.
It's a great cartridge that gets close to 7RM velocities for a good hunting bullet. Mine is 3100 with a 145 grain mono I'm working with.
Most people report easy load development (except me, lol, due to brass.......)
I just started using Peterson brass for my 280 AI. I am interested to see how it does compared to the Nosler brass I was using before.
 
Loaded the Peterson brass last night, the brass was very consistent. I measured 50 out of the hundred and neck thickness, oal and shoulder were almost all the exact same. I will be firing it this weekend I will let you know how it does. It will be fire forming to the chamber so it may not be it's optimal yet.
The Nosler brass was fine, it seemed to be a bit soft and the necks were pretty thin for not being turned.
 
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I noticed that Nosler brass has a smaller diameter primer flash hole than RP, Win, and Federal brass, I use a #46 drill bit to make all my brass's flash holes the same (except casings I use in my black powder cartridge rifles) . I do this prior to deburring the flash hole.

I like the 7mm caliber. I have a 7mm-308 AI (Remington Model 7 w/20" barrel) that spits out a 140 gr Nosler Balistic Tip at 2995 fps. This is my antelope rifle. I use a Remington Model 660 in 308 Win for mule deer and a Remington 700 BDL in 8mm Rem mag for Elk.
 
Very interested in your results with Peterson.
Was the Nosler brass giving problems?
With the peterson brass I got eight firings from brass with no loose primer pockets yet I did have to adjust powder charge a little as expected I will be trying to work up to a higher node now that I know the brass will take it With nosler three firings and it was junk
 
I have a pretty new Weatherby Vanguard in 270 win. I picked it up when Gander Mountain shut the doors. I think I picked it up when it was like 35% off or something.

I've never really got into it. I've maybe put a could of boxes through it. I really like my .30 cals and my magnums. I'd like to turn this 270 win into a 280 AI. I'd like to take it next year out west for antelope and use it for whitetail here in Michigan. Maybe elk and mule deer out west in the future. A couple of questions:

- What barrel length should I go with? I was thinking 24 or 26". Leaning towards 26".

- Barrel contour wise, I was thinking of something like a standard magnum contour with some flutes. Thoughts?

- What twist rate should I go with?

- My last project was a old turk Mauser turned into a 450 BM. I don't have a lathe so I used a drop in with (remange?? I think it's called that) with that savage nut system. In the name of accuracy am I better off sending it to some one like Hart to have them rebarrel it?

- I currently shoot a braked .30-06 and enjoy that. Any muzzle brake references?

- I'm new to reloading but had safe and great results reloading my .30-06. Any complications from a newbie reloaded perspective. Outside components any other concerns?

Thanks
If this is going to be a hunting rifle, I personally would not go an inch over 24". I just built one last year and I decided on a 23" barrel and I put a APA Micro Bastard muzzle break on it and it is so tame with that break on it. As far as contour, again if this is a hunting rifle AND if you reload, thinner is better. I know thinner barrels have smaller and harder to acquire nodes of accuracy but if you are even slightly competent in reloading you should be able to load a sub-MOA round no problem. If you are going to be shooting factory ammo then maybe a heavy sporter or another step thicker would be better.

The last thing I want to mention (anyone who builds a 280A.I. NEEDS to know) that you need to make sure your gunsmith is aware of what specific 280A.I. you are building because there are two versions. There's the original one spec'd by P.O. Ackley and then there's the SAAMI spec 280A.I. that Nosler made AND THEY ARE DIFFERENT. Long story short, I took my blueprinted action and my Criterion barrel with Rem-age barrel nut to my gun smith the be installed. I mentioned to him this needs to be chambered for the Nosler version NOT the Ackley original version. He kinda blew me off and stated he knows there's a difference and that he's been building 280A.I. since before I was born.

A week later I pick up my rifle and head to the range with factory loaded Nosler ammo to break in the barrel.....bolt won't close. I go back to my gunsmith and tell him that I think it's chamber wrong. He gets a little short with me, grabs his go and no-go gauge and shows me it's correct. I hand him a factory loaded round so he can see that the bolt won't close and he starts going off how Nosler is stupid and their version of 280A.I. is stupid and he did it the right way because it's the original way and he doesn't want to change it to the Nosler version because its "dangerous". I eventually coerced him to re-adjust the chamber but it was more of an ordeal than it ever should have been. Just make sure you stress to your smith about which chamber specifically you want.
 
Loaded the Peterson brass last night, the brass was very consistent. I measured 50 out of the hundred and neck thickness, oal and shoulder were almost all the exact same. I will be firing it this weekend I will let you know how it does. It will be fire forming to the chamber so it may not be it's optimal yet.
The Nosler brass was fine, it seemed to be a bit soft and the necks were pretty thin for not being turned.

Agree with all of this. Got a chance to shoot my first batch today to fire form using the 150 ELD-X and a velocity test with the Berger 175 EH w/RL-23 from my Nosler brass load. What a difference. As expected got better velocity with less powder due to the increased thickness and much better accuracy. Going to load an OCW for the 175 Berger and can't wait to get a chance to shoot it.

Big shout out to Bob Wright for the Peterson recommendation. Finally happy with my rifle.
 
I build a 280 Ackley two years ago and it's become my go to rifle. That said I know what I'd do different. I'd go 24" instead of 26" on the barrel and a #3 instead of a #4. Infact I took it back to my Smith and had 1 1/2" cut off and it flutted.
 
The last thing I want to mention (anyone who builds a 280A.I. NEEDS to know) that you need to make sure your gunsmith is aware of what specific 280A.I. you are building because there are two versions. There's the original one spec'd by P.O. Ackley and then there's the SAAMI spec 280A.I. that Nosler made AND THEY ARE DIFFERENT. Long story short, I took my blueprinted action and my Criterion barrel with Rem-age barrel nut to my gun smith the be installed. I mentioned to him this needs to be chambered for the Nosler version NOT the Ackley original version. He kinda blew me off and stated he knows there's a difference and that he's been building 280A.I. since before I was born.

A week later I pick up my rifle and head to the range with factory loaded Nosler ammo to break in the barrel.....bolt won't close. I go back to my gunsmith and tell him that I think it's chamber wrong. He gets a little short with me, grabs his go and no-go gauge and shows me it's correct. I hand him a factory loaded round so he can see that the bolt won't close and he starts going off how Nosler is stupid and their version of 280A.I. is stupid and he did it the right way because it's the original way and he doesn't want to change it to the Nosler version because its "dangerous". I eventually coerced him to re-adjust the chamber but it was more of an ordeal than it ever should have been. Just make sure you stress to your smith about which chamber specifically you want.
I wholeheartedly agree but don't follow one thing: My understanding was that the Nosler version's shoulder is .014" shorter than the original. Don't understand how a Nosler version factory cartridge wouldn't chamber in an original Ackley chamber. I would think there'd be too much headspace, not too little.

Redding tech article https://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/133-280-changes

A friend had his 280 Rem rechambered to 280ai--again by a gunsmith who's been in business 40+ years--and he chambered to the original wildcat. Claimed he didn't even know about the SAAMI change 8-10 years ago. My friend fireformed his new Nosler 280ai brass with a false shoulder to prevent thinning at the case head.
 
Agree with all of this. Got a chance to shoot my first batch today to fire form using the 150 ELD-X and a velocity test with the Berger 175 EH w/RL-23 from my Nosler brass load. What a difference. As expected got better velocity with less powder due to the increased thickness and much better accuracy. Going to load an OCW for the 175 Berger and can't wait to get a chance to shoot it.

Big shout out to Bob Wright for the Peterson recommendation. Finally happy with my rifle.
So glad you are on your way! So much better results than my Nosler brass story. Yeesh!
 
The last thing I want to mention (anyone who builds a 280A.I. NEEDS to know) that you need to make sure your gunsmith is aware of what specific 280A.I. you are building because there are two versions. There's the original one spec'd by P.O. Ackley and then there's the SAAMI spec 280A.I. that Nosler made AND THEY ARE DIFFERENT. Long story short, I took my blueprinted action and my Criterion barrel with Rem-age barrel nut to my gun smith the be installed. I mentioned to him this needs to be chambered for the Nosler version NOT the Ackley original version. He kinda blew me off and stated he knows there's a difference and that he's been building 280A.I. since before I was born.

A week later I pick up my rifle and head to the range with factory loaded Nosler ammo to break in the barrel.....bolt won't close. I go back to my gunsmith and tell him that I think it's chamber wrong. He gets a little short with me, grabs his go and no-go gauge and shows me it's correct. I hand him a factory loaded round so he can see that the bolt won't close and he starts going off how Nosler is stupid and their version of 280A.I. is stupid and he did it the right way because it's the original way and he doesn't want to change it to the Nosler version because its "dangerous". I eventually coerced him to re-adjust the chamber but it was more of an ordeal than it ever should have been. Just make sure you stress to your smith about which chamber specifically you want.

^^^ 100% spot on. Mine came back, barrel was not removed and turned back. i have head space issues. I have to fireform all brass, even 280AI brass. Shoulder moves .oo6 forward first firing, then stable. Working around the problem , just a PITA.
Good luck on your build. Very tolerable rifle to shoot. I'm not a recoil junky.
 
I wholeheartedly agree but don't follow one thing: My understanding was that the Nosler version's shoulder is .014" shorter than the original. Don't understand how a Nosler version factory cartridge wouldn't chamber in an original Ackley chamber. I would think there'd be too much headspace, not too little.

Redding tech article https://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/133-280-changes

A friend had his 280 Rem rechambered to 280ai--again by a gunsmith who's been in business 40+ years--and he chambered to the original wildcat. Claimed he didn't even know about the SAAMI change 8-10 years ago. My friend fireformed his new Nosler 280ai brass with a false shoulder to prevent thinning at the case head.
Ugh I think your right which just makes me want to never go back to the gunsmith again.... That never even crossed my mind
 
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