Neck Turning-What wall thickness

What is the optimal neck wall thickness when turning necks on brass and if turning necks does that limit the amount of reloads you can get out a case?
The first portion of your question is dependent on the reason that you are turning the neck. Was the brass necked up or down?

In a 'no turn' brass specific chamber it isn't necessary to turn them. I, myself, will usually do a skim pass, if the neck thickness varies, for a bit more consistent neck tension. If you are running a tight neck, it will be necessary to turn necks for bullet release based on all the pertinent parameters involved with that chamber.

I have never found turning necks to be limiting in any way on case life. I do anneal every firing.
 
If you already knew this, why the question?
Thought it would be a topic that some members would benefit from. Had other members ask me this question through PMs and wanted to see what other reloaders are doing?
Don't know why you are asking me another question about what I already know. Would think that a member would respond on what they are doing.
 
It's my understanding is 0.012 to 0.013 is the thinness you shouldn't go below that. I have a tight chamber rifle now, and just started testing the rifle. Having to go to 0.0125 from 0.013. This is the first time I have done anything in chamber reduction. My other rifles are standard chambers (whatever that is from rifle to rifle). I cut all the neck for thickness for every rifle I load for. I use to only anneal once and use until my primer pocket would give up. At the time before annealing I would have split necks somewhere in the reloading of my cases. (no count on number of uses) Case life was shorter. Here what I see. annealing the cases. (every time). No less than every 3rd time. Bumping the shoulder back only a couple of th. in a FL die. I only Neck size, for a very long time, but have changed my ways. There are so many steps to prep brass, it isn't funny. In thinning necks: I do the fallowing. (Never Fired Cases) 1. I trim my cases to length very first thing. 2. I then cut for thickness of the necks. Reason for this is necks are all going to be the same length. Not short or long so I don't cut short or deep at the shoulder. Once the neck thickness it done you don't have to repeat that. Other items that only need to be done once. Flash holes deburred. Volume weight check your cases, if you want too. Now I haven't check my new Peterson or Lapua cases yet for Volume weight, but will be shortly. I use to just weight the cases to get them closer to the same case weight. I see the error's of my ways.
Problems that I am having is: Obtaining the equipment needed to do all this. FL bushing die's. bushing, Especially high end equipment to purchase. Items that take months to get. You name it, it seem like it's on backorder.
 
On my 6mm/280AI I have to go to .0125" to fit in the chamber. I will have to check the 2 cases that were fired to see if the bullet will slide into the case after being fired.
 
I prefer 12-13thou thickness as it provides sufficient and easy to manage tension.
I prefer 1-3thou neck clearance as this reduces sizing and annealing requirements, and provides fast neck sealing.
Where I can meet both with turning, then I do so. Otherwise, I do not turn.
 
I like necks as thick as they come from the box. I'll turn if I feel compelled to better uniform neck thickness but this "could" cause more neck clearance than desirable. I use Lapua brass almost exclusively, but it isn't available for everything I shoot. I never turn the Lapua brass.

Other than that, I have a few minimum spec chambers and the neck clearance would be too tight for my liking. I'll turn cases to get .003" of clearance (which is only .0015" on each side) but is still sufficient for a hunting rifle. Clearances of less than .003" may be OK for the benchrest crowd because they spend a considerable amount of time and effort in getting things to exacting standards, but a hunting load/rifle needs a little room for error.
 
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