working load, proper shooting technique help!

[Bigeclipse]

Good plan. Until you can completely eliminate equipment and form issues all you are going to do is get more frustrated. You can't tune a load if the setup and shooting mechanics are not right.

If you have a load that was shooting well for you prior to all of this I'd try going back to it once you have eliminated equipment and form issues as being the problem and work out from there.

Also I think you might save yourself a lot of grief if you can get access to a chrony to look at your ES's.

Are you weighing each powder charge individually or using a volumetric powder measure?

I do have a chrono... it is a "prochrono" but I admit ive only used it when checking velocity to at whatever load works out for accuracy to determine max range of that load for effective expansion. I will need to start using it as you stated.

I do measure each load with a powder trickler on my RCBS balance beam. I have decent confidence in the balance beam as everytime I weigh bullets or my broadheads, it gives me consistant readings. Last year I also verified it compared to an industrial digital scale at my lab where I work and it was very very close. The only thing I could improve for reloading is case preparation. Right now I try and trim things to within .003 of each other. I could tighten that up. I full length resize my brass, have not taken the plung to neck resizing, but again heard this really only improves brass life. I do not measure/trim flasholes, but I make sure they are all clean. I heard this was only necessary for extreme accuracy and not needed for my 400-500 yard goals. I recently aquired a comparator to measure to ogive instead of bullet tip. I do not measure bullet run-out. Again...I may be wrong but I believe my reloading technique is OK for now and should provide me with good enough results.

My plan is to swap scopes...and check that. If scope is ok, I will procede to ladder testing, which I should have done to begin with.

 

[tokatee]

You are weighting my life story,my 300 wsm,went from .5 mos to the same as you are dealing with,I have tried stock ,scope and mount change. I don't believe in using a lead sled.in my case I also had a powder lot change which hasn't helped,seems I now need 1.6 grains more to get same vel. ,also had bullet lot change but,I can't believe even all this would blow my accuracy this bad,do watch the mag. box setting when reassembling a 700. So where am I????? Spent a half hour last night with copper solve it...today I am going to the range with some more loads and a prayer...good luck to you..I'll be watching..keep us in formed.

 

[RMulhern]

Fetish?

No!

And our sheep aren't scared down here!!

 

[Canadian Bushman]

No!

And our sheep aren't scared down here!!

They've already become used to it?

 

[FEENIX]

They've already become used to it?

Thanks a lot ... now I have to clean my monitor!

 

[ShootnMathews]

Ok. Let's get back on topic for Big. Did you get the scope on? I have a neat trick for lining it up if you haven't put it in yet. Just need a target with a grid on it and a lazer bore sight. I have switched scopes with this method several times and only need a click or two to zero again.

 

[7magcreedmoor]

Get rid of that leadsled. If recoil is an issue, swap the pad for a Limbsaver, they are a little pricey, but worth every penny, and it goes up the mountain with you (unlike the sled). If recoil is still an issue, and you don't like brakes (I DO like brakes, because they work, and use electronic earpro all the time), have a "Dead Mule" put inside the stock. I have one in a lighter weight 7mag, it made a noticeable difference. For load development, check the seating depth test method used by Berger Bullets, it can save a lot of time and powder/bullet money. For charge weight, I usually start with SAAMI COAL and do a ladder test, then once I have the optimum charge, do the COAL test (Berger method). This usually gets me where I need to be pretty quick. I may have missed it in all the replies to your original post, but I will take it for granted that you have checked the bedding and barrel channel for interference issues, and of course you are testing for a damaged scope.

 

[7magcreedmoor]

P.S.: For "no bounce" field shooting, master the use of the loop sling. Makes for a very stable rifle in all positions except offhand.

 

[Bigeclipse]

Get rid of that leadsled. If recoil is an issue, swap the pad for a Limbsaver, they are a little pricey, but worth every penny, and it goes up the mountain with you (unlike the sled). If recoil is still an issue, and you don't like brakes (I DO like brakes, because they work, and use electronic earpro all the time), have a "Dead Mule" put inside the stock. I have one in a lighter weight 7mag, it made a noticeable difference. For load development, check the seating depth test method used by Berger Bullets, it can save a lot of time and powder/bullet money. For charge weight, I usually start with SAAMI COAL and do a ladder test, then once I have the optimum charge, do the COAL test (Berger method). This usually gets me where I need to be pretty quick. I may have missed it in all the replies to your original post, but I will take it for granted that you have checked the bedding and barrel channel for interference issues, and of course you are testing for a damaged scope.

Swapped to a known good scope and loaded up 30 rounds different charges for OCW or ladder test. I have a adjustable front rest with rear bag. It is a typical tripod type front rest. Should I put extra padding on it to help prevent rifle from bouncing...if so...anything you recommend?

 

[FEENIX]

I have a adjustable front rest with rear bag. It is a typical tripod type front rest. Should I put extra padding on it to help parent rifle from bouncing...if so...anything you recommend?

If you're trying to emulate as close to field conditions, then no ... just shoot away.

 

[WildRose]

I do have a chrono... it is a "prochrono" but I admit ive only used it when checking velocity to at whatever load works out for accuracy to determine max range of that load for effective expansion. I will need to start using it as you stated.

I do measure each load with a powder trickler on my RCBS balance beam. I have decent confidence in the balance beam as everytime I weigh bullets or my broadheads, it gives me consistant readings. Last year I also verified it compared to an industrial digital scale at my lab where I work and it was very very close. The only thing I could improve for reloading is case preparation. Right now I try and trim things to within .003 of each other. I could tighten that up. I full length resize my brass, have not taken the plung to neck resizing, but again heard this really only improves brass life. I do not measure/trim flasholes, but I make sure they are all clean. I heard this was only necessary for extreme accuracy and not needed for my 400-500 yard goals. I recently aquired a comparator to measure to ogive instead of bullet tip. I do not measure bullet run-out. Again...I may be wrong but I believe my reloading technique is OK for now and should provide me with good enough results.

My plan is to swap scopes...and check that. If scope is ok, I will procede to ladder testing, which I should have done to begin with.

I would encourage you to quit full length sizing.

Once fired, your brass fits perfectly to the chamber of your rifle, just trim for length as necessary and neck size and you'll get a lot better consistency. Even when I full length size I'm not really "full length resizing" and I only do that if it starts feeling a bit too snug when closing the bolt.

I generally use a regular full length die but only run to the bottom of the neck barely bumping the shoulders. When it gets a bit snug I'll bump it down a couple of thousandths more and that's it.

This method improved the consistency of my loads considerably and I have stuck with it now for over twenty years.

Let us know how it goes with a different scope.

One other thing I'd been thinking on is the torquing of your action screws.

With a properly bedded action it doesn't take all that much to keep it secured and overtorquing or uneven torquing can create issues.

I've found I'm getting better results by torquing to no great than 40lbs and torquing front and rear equally on both my remingtons and Mod70's.

You want the action secure but you don't want to create stress.

 

[WildRose]

P.S.: For "no bounce" field shooting, master the use of the loop sling. Makes for a very stable rifle in all positions except offhand.

Needs a bit of a bump.

I don't loop the sling marine style but I do put my elbow through. This creates a solid anchor point putting a steady downward pull on the rifle which goes a long way towards keeping it from hopping.

You are essentially hanging a heavy weight under the rifle which I find also is a great aid in achieving steadiness.

There are lots of good ways to manage recoil and this is one I've found to work well under most field shooting conditions and situations and it allows you to still use your off hand as a rear bag to make elevation adjustments with ease.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I would encourage you to quit full length sizing.

Once fired, your brass fits perfectly to the chamber of your rifle, just trim for length as necessary and neck size and you'll get a lot better consistency. Even when I full length size I'm not really "full length resizing" and I only do that if it starts feeling a bit too snug when closing the bolt.

I generally use a regular full length die but only run to the bottom of the neck barely bumping the shoulders. When it gets a bit snug I'll bump it down a couple of thousandths more and that's it.

This method improved the consistency of my loads considerably and I have stuck with it now for over twenty years.

Let us know how it goes with a different scope.

One other thing I'd been thinking on is the torquing of your action screws.

With a properly bedded action it doesn't take all that much to keep it secured and overtorquing or uneven torquing can create issues.

I've found I'm getting better results by torquing to no great than 40lbs and torquing front and rear equally on both my remingtons and Mod70's.

You want the action secure but you don't want to create stress.

To late to for not full length reloading...already did. Maybe I will start after my OCW or ladder test. As for action screws both are at 45in/lbs front and back...this a remmy action in a B&C stock with aluminum bedding block.

 

[Canadian Bushman]

To late to for not full length reloading...already did. Maybe I will start after my OCW or ladder test. As for action screws both are at 45in/lbs front and back...this a remmy action in a B&C stock with aluminum bedding block.

If you do any testing after FL sizing, your results could change with NS brass. Consistency is the name of the game here.