Prone shooting technique question

Big_Red

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Update- I think problem solved... increased height of cheek piece with foam under stock pack. Now a comfortable and repeatable cheek weld can be obtained without straining neck. Apparently, I've gone all my life and never had it right :)

A month ago was my first long range match/shoot. Course of fire was about 50 rounds total at 200/400/600 yards, broken up over a few hours and working the target pit. It was my first time ever shooting prone and the following day my neck was awfully sore from craning my neck up.

Several questions... Is this normal? Expected? Or is it a symptom of poor technique?

I've read multiple articles on prone shooting, but no formal instruction.

Thanks.
 
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A month ago was my first long range match/shoot. Course of fire was about 50 rounds total at 200/400/600 yards, broken up over a few hours and working the target pit. It was my first time ever shooting prone and the following day my neck was awfully sore from craning my neck up.

Several questions... Is this normal? Expected? Or is it a symptom of poor technique?

I've read multiple articles on prone shooting, but no formal instruction.

Thanks.

hi,

you have to adjust your headrest<cheek rest> propely.
aim at target. close the eyes, take 3 breath. pause. open eyes. if your head is on scope on the same point <up down> your cheek rest is properly setup.
you have sore back neck pain, because your head is not resting on rifle stock properly.
 
This subject I could talk on for two days! Your best bet....is to find a good match shooter well versed in instruction and you can be shown more in 10 minutes than talked on over two days!! Many issues need covered; whether you're shooting NRA HP events or F-class using a bi-pod! Sling requirement for NRA HP and it's usage require 'showing' instead of talking about! Scoped rifle position much different from shooting a rear aperture! Both related...but not necessarily the same!
 
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Thanks 300RUM. So, given your explanation, the entire weight of my noggin' should be resting on the stock - with minimal muscular support to hold the head up? Maybe I need to be in a higher position too???
 
Thanks 300RUM. So, given your explanation, the entire weight of my noggin' should be resting on the stock - with minimal muscular support to hold the head up? Maybe I need to be in a higher position too???

Yes,
Your head have to be rested on stock.
2 reasons. you do not have muscle paion, second you have constant eye-scope lens position all the time.
 
Appreciate the advice... I'll try to adjust my technique with some dry fire practice tonight. I may need to build up a cheek riser under the stock pack.
 
What helped me a bunch is to take a higher shooting position. I put a couple of blocks under my rear bag to raise it up and adjusted the front rest accordingly. It was instant help.

Also......when waitng for the pits...don't stare into the scope....move your head around...look at the flags...anything but through the scope.

This, of course is different for every shooter...this is just what helped me. It also helped my two kids and the one other new shooter that I was helping. 100% improvement with 100% of the shooters.

I shoot dedicated BR guns in "F" class, so I don't have the abillity to adjust my cheak piece...my head NEVER touches the stock....probobly a bad thing!


Good luck, and bring a friend!!!!
 
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Can someone explain to me why you need your cheek "welded" to the stock in F class.....makes no sence to me at all, unless it is for comfort.
 
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Problem solved!!!!

After some experimenting, I found that I needed about 3/4" of foam padding underneath my stock pack. What a difference... wow. Can't wait for my second attempt at the long range shoot this weekend.

gun)
 
Problem solved!!!!

After some experimenting, I found that I needed about 3/4" of foam padding underneath my stock pack. What a difference... wow. Can't wait for my second attempt at the long range shoot this weekend.

gun)

Glad to see you follow some advices... Let us know how will perform..
 
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