WildRose
Well-Known Member
Yep, there are always exceptions. That's why I specified, "most rifles".
Speaking in absolutes is a great way to be wrong a lot.... . HA! gun)
working load, proper shooting technique help!
- Thread starter Bigeclipse
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Speaking in absolutes is a great way to be wrong a lot.... . HA! gun)
ShootnMathews
Well-Known Member
I think the reason mine shoots better FL sized is I'm only bumping the shoulder .0025" when I FL size which makes things a little more consistent then just NS. When I NS only I could feel varied resistance on closing the bolt on the rounds. Some closed easy and some took some effort. Which tells me there were some inconsistencies. fL sizing and bumping all the shoulders to be the same every load not only made chambering each round very easy it also seemed to balance the pressure curve of the burn some. Or something like that I guess. It shoots better FL sized anyways. That's the important part.
I found this post because I too am working with a light Remington Mountain Rifle(new SS in .280), and have found that it seems very finicky to form and wanted to see some insight to shooting this type of rifle.
I noticed this rifle has a very whippy front barrel at the shot. Laying prone, or on the bench, the rifle recoils up and not back. Maybe if I was shooting a bigger magnum it would push harder. Flinch is not my problem, I shoot 7mm's and even regularly my friends 300 Weatherby pushing 180's 3250. Not saying it can't happen.
I found a load capable of multiple 1/2 moa 200 yd groups using 168bergers around 2700fps. My groups generally stay within 1.25 moa with the occasional flyer, so I'm not complaining.
My response here is to acknowledge that I think form can have a significant impact on such a whippy gun, in my experience. A good trigger helps. That said, I don't think form along takes you from sub-moa to 3moa. Neither does slight changes to load development. Complete switch in bullets/powder, maybe. I have found that crushing over stretched cases can as well(particular to my belted 7mm). Most of the time I find this kind of problem is either 1) Equip: Loose actions, bedding, etc. or 2) Major flinch.
If you have time to have a buddy who can shoot, try it, that may tel you how much you contribute.
If you have access to a good gunsmith, I'd have them bed it and go through it if it has not been already.
Lasty, yes it could be the scope, but throwing another one on can also quickly eliminate that.
I've had this happen at least 3-4x and usually it's the gun or the brass getting too long without me noticing. I have a very reliable A-bolt that shoots the same bullets very well longer distances(.9moa to 100yds, but .6moa to 700yds), but it has a boss and if it comes loose at all, the groups at least double, maybe triple.
I'm going to post a question about form on a whippy gun seperately now so as not to hijack this post.
Brian
I noticed this rifle has a very whippy front barrel at the shot. Laying prone, or on the bench, the rifle recoils up and not back. Maybe if I was shooting a bigger magnum it would push harder. Flinch is not my problem, I shoot 7mm's and even regularly my friends 300 Weatherby pushing 180's 3250. Not saying it can't happen.
I found a load capable of multiple 1/2 moa 200 yd groups using 168bergers around 2700fps. My groups generally stay within 1.25 moa with the occasional flyer, so I'm not complaining.
My response here is to acknowledge that I think form can have a significant impact on such a whippy gun, in my experience. A good trigger helps. That said, I don't think form along takes you from sub-moa to 3moa. Neither does slight changes to load development. Complete switch in bullets/powder, maybe. I have found that crushing over stretched cases can as well(particular to my belted 7mm). Most of the time I find this kind of problem is either 1) Equip: Loose actions, bedding, etc. or 2) Major flinch.
If you have time to have a buddy who can shoot, try it, that may tel you how much you contribute.
If you have access to a good gunsmith, I'd have them bed it and go through it if it has not been already.
Lasty, yes it could be the scope, but throwing another one on can also quickly eliminate that.
I've had this happen at least 3-4x and usually it's the gun or the brass getting too long without me noticing. I have a very reliable A-bolt that shoots the same bullets very well longer distances(.9moa to 100yds, but .6moa to 700yds), but it has a boss and if it comes loose at all, the groups at least double, maybe triple.
I'm going to post a question about form on a whippy gun seperately now so as not to hijack this post.
Brian
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Brass flows and unrestrained it grows which is why you need to usually full length resize on about every third or fourth loading in my experience. It seems to show up more quickly in the belted magnums which I guess makes sense.
To get around that, some BR guys I knew many years ago actually put a 12 O'clock index mark on the bottom of their brass so they could get it aligned exactly the same each time when they loaded a round into the chamber.
