JE is right. Freeze it if it is just a small amount and it will come off fine. If it is larger deposits, heating it with a heat gun and then use some Hoppes #9 and a Popsicle stick to remove the bedding compound. Acetone will also work well, no heat required and does not hurt metal but do NOT get it on plastic. Never tried it on Creakote only stainless and blue so I would test it in an inconspicuous spot first. Also, be VERY careful, the Acetone fumes are volatile, you do not want flame or spark near it.
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Whats the best bedding removal out there?
- Thread starter Jeffery1122
- Start date
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bigngreen
Well-Known Member
I normally just pop it of with a chisel but I Iearned one thing a long time ago, bed it before you Cerakote!!!
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ntsqd
Well-Known Member
This strikes me as odd. Why not the other way around?I normally just pop it of with a chisel but I l and need one thing a long time ago, bed it before you Cerakote!!!
bigngreen
Well-Known Member
This strikes me as odd. Why not the other way around?
You mess up a $200 Cerakote job, many colors you'll always have a line where you can see where the bedding sat. Cerakote done correctly is very thin, on the order of tenths, so it's no issue, other coating you may well have to bed coated but not Cerakote.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Even with a release agent applied? I'm asking because I was about to send out the ULHR for scalloping and Ceracoat and I have not yet bedded it.
bigngreen
Well-Known Member
Yes, especially mat colors the bedding process leaves a little waterline mark would be a good way to describe it. If your wanting a perfect look to your Cerakote bed it before.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
I like the freezer idea it has less chance of doing harm to the cera coating that was put on the barrel recently . I'm thinking that J E Custom has been around the block once or twice and I have always liked to learn from people that have experienced it . I'm on this site to learn thank you all for the info .
I would like to say that it was my idea, but that Is not the case. I was taught gunsmithing by an "Old" Bench rest shooter and master gunsmith that actually bedded/glued the action to the stock so there would be no added stress to the action from action screws (He didn't use them).
So when he wanted to do barrel or chamber work, He placed the whole rifle in the freezer and the next day when he took it out he would strike the barrel holding the stock, with a rubber mallet and it would pop off with no damage and the bedding would remain on the stock.
I never glued one because I was/am into magnum rifles and in my opinion they need to be well anchored to the stock but he did ever BR rifle that way.
It worked with the entire action bedded without release and has worked for me if I get sloppy with the bedding compound.
J E CUSTOM
Get itI recently bedded my Remington 700 barrel to my Bell and Carson stock, I didn't use enough release agent towards the top side of the barrel and now have glue on there. what do you guys use to take that glue off the barrel?
Grind it out and start over or take it to some one who knows what they are doing.
Put it into a freezer for a day or 2 then put the barrel into a vice, avoid scratching it of coarse but make sure its secure then give stock a good rap, might take some strength but a full time stock maker told me this trick and said he used it more than once for same reason your asking about. Hope.it helps.
Someones comprehension skills are lacking. I guess it could be mine but the way I interpret the original post is that the barreled action isn't stuck to the stock. I think he is saying there is some epoxy slopped on the surface of the barrel.
Edd that's the way I understood it as well and he had just cera coated the barrel . I think that the barreled action could be put in the freezer and that the bedding material stuck to the barrel would come loose from the barrel with the use of a squared pop sickle stick being used as a kind of scrapper . I just got a used Remington that had the scope mount loc-tited to the action with red loc tite ( and removed before I got it ). I used 0000 steel wool with acetone in it to soak the loc tite and soften it then lightly rubbed it off without damage to the finish on the action I didn't think of trying to put it in the freezer but I might know to try that now if I happen to come across this type of thing again now .
Cerakote is heated to 300 degrees to cure, so temps at or below want hurt, acetone is not suposed to hurt it either, i do some and have read and watched the application videos from cerkote. I would put pentrating oil on let soak for about hour then stick in freezer then see if it want pop off. If that doesn't work the try heat and scrap with plastic or wood.
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Someones comprehension skills are lacking. I guess it could be mine but the way I interpret the original post is that the barreled action isn't stuck to the stock. I think he is saying there is some epoxy slopped on the surface of the barrel.
That's the way I read the post to.
The freezer should make the bedding that remained stuck on the barrel/action come off without any damage if careful.
J E CUSTOM
Jeffery1122
Member
I froze the barrel and sharpened the "Comet stars and strips" popsicle stick and went to town on her.....worked perfectly. If I were smarter I'd attach pictures of before and after. Thx everyone for their 2cents.
