What would you change?

I have lapped my rings before with the wheeler stuff and it makes a mess I can imagine the cleanup after would have to be pretty thorough, I think I would be afraid of going to far with it, probably best left for someone experienced with the process, beginner could make some costly errors.
Even with a bad trigger with a lot of concentration you can shoot a good group if the rifle is capable , but why put yourself through that if a rifle is not accurate the trigger won't make it any more accurate. Example I have a mod 54 Winchester custom 280 Rem that I can shoot bug hole groups with ,that has a terrible trigger that I hate shooting so changing the trigger won't make it any more accurate but it sure will make it easier too shoot off the bench or in the field all my other rifles have custom triggers the mod 54 requires custom work so it is what it is for now . Yes a good trigger too me is very important too consistent accuracy.
 
if you're asking me, I don't go below 1.50 lbs on a single stage trigger. I've placed in nationals in PRS, I was a sniper in the military and I'm still a sniper for the .gov.

Having a gun with a hair trigger is just **** stupid and dangerous, especially if you don't know what you're getting yourself into. In defense, there's a reason why battle rifles and pistols have heavier triggers. There's no tolerance for negligence discharges in the mil. When I was in, you'd get your teeth kicked in if you did that ****.
I'm genuinely curious, since you've thrown out your credentials, and you seem to have a strong opinion, share your name so you can vetted. I mean, if you're going to throw the gauntlet, don't be shy.
 
I have lapped my rings before with the wheeler stuff and it makes a mess I can imagine the cleanup after would have to be pretty thorough, I think I would be afraid of going to far with it, probably best left for someone experienced with the process, beginner could make some costly errors.
Cleanup is actually a breeze.

Pull it aparth wash the stock with purple power and warm water or dawn and warm water.

Just about everything I shoot is stainless so i drop the barreled action into warm soapy water to soak for a bit and then hose it clean in the sink or shower, dry thoroughly and completely then properly lubricate and put back together.

This is an extremely slow, gradual process and I doubt one could overdo it before running out of patience.

When things get right the action gets buttery smooth, it's similar to the way custom pistols are hand fitted.

I've had a lot of time to kill between surgeries over the last 10 or 15 years so this was a productive way to keep busy and forget about what hurts for a while.
 
Cleanup is actually a breeze.

Pull it aparth wash the stock with purple power and warm water or dawn and warm water.

Just about everything I shoot is stainless so i drop the barreled action into warm soapy water to soak for a bit and then hose it clean in the sink or shower, dry thoroughly and completely then properly lubricate and put back together.

This is an extremely slow, gradual process and I doubt one could overdo it before running out of patience.

When things get right the action gets buttery smooth, it's similar to the way custom pistols are hand fitted.

I've had a lot of time to kill between surgeries over the last 10 or 15 years so this was a productive way to keep busy and forget about what hurts for a while.
My lugs on my ar15 could use a little gentle grinding
 
That's about the gentlest way possible and ensure a perfect surface to surface fit. It just takes time.
I've done the lugs on several bolt guns. It's enhanced them drastically.
I have to admit I know nothing about AR platforms, I have a Stag Arms AR10 about half paid for though on a work trade.
 
I've done the lugs on several bolt guns. It's enhanced them drastically.
I have to admit I know nothing about AR platforms, I have a Stag Arms AR10 about half paid for though on a work trade.
I'm no expert on the finer points of gas guns but have shot a whole bunch of them. They really aren't much different than a bolt gun other than the gas system.

They still rely on a cam lock type system to hold the chamber closed long enough for it not to blow up in your face when it goes off;' at least in theory, I have seen some rally bad accidents with them.

There are lots of cut way and exploded images of the actions available online even some videos to help you understand how they work.
 
I've ordered a book and a dvd on how to work on them. Which includes the basics like cleaning and tear down,etc.
I'm kind of excited. It's a 7.62x51 now but that is going to change after I learn the ropes
 
So would you think putting some of the fine compound on the lugs of the bolt and charging it maybe 30 times and then shooting about 20 rounds and then doing a good cleanup would be a good start?
 
So would you think putting some of the fine compound on the lugs of the bolt and charging it maybe 30 times and then shooting about 20 rounds and then doing a good cleanup would be




These are the two main videos that got me started. I fallowed the lug lapping video almost to a T.
Sharpie marker can reveal lug to receiver contact, making it easier the identify
I have the PTG bolt head on one of my Savage builds and they will be on all the rest.
I lapped the lugs on a Tikka and it was way faster.
But I'm a Savage nut 🔩 🌰 🥜 …..🐿
 
If you can choose the one best thing you could do to make a firearm shoot better what would it be, which one thing would you change over everything that would make the biggest difference, basically the first thing you would do to make a gun shoot better, but can only do one thing, what's most important.
Select a better shooter.
 
Go get training. The human is always the weakest link in accuracy. It's not arguable. It's a solid fact. Honestly, if one has good fundamentals, they don't need a special trigger unless your splitting hairs. 1/8 moa type hairs.

If you are talking strictly mechanical? Scope. Get a quality scope. It's not a optical device at its primary function, it's a telescopic sight. If you're sight is cheap and finicky, so will your shooting be.

Are you talking specifically mechanical on the rifle? The stock. The reason I suggest that over say, blue printing, or barrels is because a good stock, or even a modular stock compliments fundamentals of marksmanship….the most important thing of accuracy, right? Having the right length of pull, and the right comb height, or more simply a proper setup is critical for the shooter to be consistent.


Blue prints give small gains, and barrels now a days even from the factory are good enough in most instances. My wife took at cheap ruger American off the shelf and shoots 1/4 moa with it for example with no modification other than a cheek riser.

If you're fundementals are solid, you have a decent scope and a rifle set up for you're body…you're good to go. If you get to a point you want to be more competitive, or further your accuracy, then barrels, and blue prints, even triggers and other gizmos can help with that, but they aren't required.
Second that. Most of us learn from other amateurs or intuition and never have technical correction. (Unless you were in the Service LOL). We do not know what we do not know, and don't know our ingrained bad habits till someone outside watches us do what we think we know. Coaches/Trainers transformed my Moto riding, Skiing racing, and now shooting 10X more than any piece of gear ever.
 
So would you think putting some of the fine compound on the lugs of the bolt and charging it maybe 30 times and then shooting about 20 rounds and then doing a good cleanup would be a good start?
Depends how "gritty" it feels. I might start with something like 400 and when I say "work the snot out of it" I don't mean twenty times, 200 times is a good start.

With a gas gun you can/should at least beable to lather up the bolt lugs on both the bolt and barrel pretty well and just go have fun, then clean well with something like Berryman's spray carburetor cleaner which is what I generally do for quick carbon removal or removal of excess/dirty oils/grease.

Use a progressively smaller grit each trip for a few hundred rounds and it will have to be smoother but it's almost impossible to overdo it. Almost I say because if there's a way to overdo something I'm usually the guy to find it.
 
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