Savage Bolt

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Cruizin, Sep 12, 2008.

  1. Cruizin

    Cruizin Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering if anyone could give me a little advise. I decided to build a gun from a savage action. I need to change the bolt head and bolt lever, but I'm having a hard time finding much info on it. There is the savage shooters website but there is a membership charge that I'm not really interested in. It's not about the money just don't want to have to sign up for something like a website.

    I'm an engineer and fix all kinds of things so basically I'm just wondering if there is anything I need to look out for. It's from an older 110 model. I was looking at the bolt and there is a big screw on the back (flat head screw). I'm thinking I need to remove this then the firing pin assy looks like it is locked in with a pin that is cammed in. The bolt head seems to be held in with a dowel that must have a hole in it for the firing pin to go through.

    I'm thinking I just need to remove the screw on the back and the firing pin assy should come out next then pound out the pin? Does this sound right?

    Do I need to worry about measuring the firing pin or adjusting it in any way?

    I appreciate any advice.

    Thanks,
    Nick
     
  2. AJ Peacock

    AJ Peacock Well-Known Member

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    The Savage Shooters forum is the first place I send folks, as there is tons of info specifically for your question there. When I was building my Savage, I purchased a one year membership and downloaded all the articles etc. They were a great help.

    AJ
     

  3. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    Unscrew the big screw in the rear , take off the bolt handel then the caming piece , they just slide off. Their is a little thin piece of sheet metal inside the bolt reach in and pull it back then take out the little round cap pin on the side , the sheet metal has a slot this sits in with a hole in the bottom so it doesen't fall out . Now tale the firing pin out , here you have a naked holow bolt with the head on it , their is a small cross pin behind the head bush it out then the bolt head comes right out , DO NOT try to drive this pin out with the firing pin still in as the cross pin has a hole that the firing pin goes through.

    Take not as to the side of the bold that the ejector is on and what the cap pin on the rear , it'll save you some time later.
     
  4. Cruizin

    Cruizin Well-Known Member

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    Thank you very much you guys! I appreciate it very much! My next question in headspacing. It looks like you shim the bolt head on the savage to adjust headspacing. Is this correct?
     
  5. AJ Peacock

    AJ Peacock Well-Known Member

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    No, headspacing is done by installing the barrel to the correct point and then tightening the barrel nut. I really recommend the articles on the Savage shooters forum.

    AJ
     
  6. edge

    edge Well-Known Member

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    Measure the firing pin diameter. IIRC there are two sizes so you need to know which bolt head to buy. I think :)

    edge.
     
  7. MachV

    MachV Well-Known Member

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    Free advise!
    Running a website aint cheap and done right takes a lot of time!!
    Pay the $12 and give SSS and Northlander a call or two, being an engineer your gonna need it :D
    I could give you a lot more advise but its been my experience that as an engineer you will not listen anyway!!
    This advise brought to you by the poor uneducated sarcastic smuck that has to make engineered parts work:)
     
  8. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    James Jones gave you the best directions.

    AJ Peacock gave you the best advice.

    If your going to own and work on a savage. $12 membership will be money well spent. It works out to less than pennies an hour spent there for me.

    I'm an engineer too. Savages fuel my tinkering fire.
     
  9. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    MachV be nice , he was just miss directed at a young age and diden't relize what he was doing:D

    Just jerking your chain , I just came off the roof of our VAB with an engineer who wants us to install a 100hp motor up their today even though the wind is blowing a steady 50 mph and gust to 70 !! he just coulden't understand what was so unsafe about working on top of a 240 foot building in those winds so WE took a walk and now he understands

    The headspace on the savage is adjusted via the barrel nut , it can be done with a headspace guage by threading the barrel on partly , inserting the Go Guage and closing the bolt ,then screw the barrel down til it contacts the guage , then tighten the barrel nut. When I do it I use a fired case than has been FL sized in my die and filled with epoxy so its solid , I use that as a guage and it sets the chamber for min haedspace for you dies.
     
  10. MachV

    MachV Well-Known Member

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    I was being nice James;) Nuthin personal with Cruisin just aint got much time for most engineers!
    If you use a resized case(Go Gauge) its a good idea to double check the headspace...Put two pieces of scotch on over the base(No-Go gauge) and try to chamber it again= The bolt should not close!!
     
  11. Cruizin

    Cruizin Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again guys that is all I needed. I truely appreciate your advice. I might sign up as well for the sss website but as of right now that was all the info I needed.

    Yeah the relationship between engineers and the guys that are out in the field making things work is always good for a laugh. I've been fortunate to been able to work on both ends, so I know how it goes. The bottom line is neither of us know what we are doing. We just figure it out as we go along.
     
  12. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    Good point. I've been lucky in that respect as well.
     
  13. edge

    edge Well-Known Member

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    I am a machinist by trade and always get a kick out of seeing a clearance hole dimensioned to 4 decimal places :)

    My father graduated from college as a electrical engineer in 1939. At that time engineers had to take shop classes so that they knew first hand what it took to achieve dimensions in a shop. Somehow I don't think that today's engineers take shop :)

    edge.
     
  14. Eaglet

    Eaglet Well-Known Member

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    Very interesting comments about Engineers. I studied 3.5 years full time to became a Civil Engineer; I was not smart enough to finish it.

    About the comments, I... Well, I gave geargrinder (an Engineer) a full box with 1000 Gold Match Large Magnum primers and he would not take them... I offered twice... For free, you all know how hard it is to find those primers. He Would Not Take them... :) :) :) :confused: :D

    Too late now Mr. Geargrinder.

    Seriously now, he would not take them because he is a very good friend of mine; he did not want to take advantage of me. He knows he can have... as a matter of fact I have 300 of those primers ready for him that he hasn't shown up to pick them up.

    Geargrinder has done all kinds of field work before he became an Engineer; I know he can be trusted as one.