ShtrRdy
Well-Known Member
The OP said they are all bolts.
Reloading equipment question
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The OP said they are all bolts.
aushunter1
Well-Known Member
I would be looking Redding over RCBS as well!
I think if you ask 95% of first time reloaders why they got into it they will say cost saving but Im not sure if I am alone but that goes by the wayside pretty quickly when you start seeing the results you can obtain & the feeling you get when you either get you 1st high score on the range or for me that 1st feral animal or deer you take with something you took the time to research, prepare, test & combine with your rifle.
You couldn't have given me any amount of free factory ammo to get the grim off my face when I put my animals down with each of my rifles I handload for
The other 5% already had reloading in their bloodline
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epoletna
Well-Known Member
I reload because I enjoy the intellectual challenge of figuring out which load is the best, and because there is a sort of zen about working the press repeatedly.
If your range is like mine, you'll notice there are a LOT of empty .223 and 9 mm brass casings on the ground. So many that a friend bought two rifles by aqwwping up and selling the brass. That tells you right off the bat that it is probably not cost effective to reload those calibers. IOW, loaded commercial ammo is too cheap to think you can save money by reloading.
Of course there is also the issue of picking up brass that has been scattered two or three yards -- that's a pain.
Others have weighed in on the press issue. I own an RCBS Rockchucker and a Co-Ax press (Forster). I seldom use the Co-Ax, but for one off loads it is definitely quicker than the RCBS (changing dies and shell holders of the RCBS takes time).
Several people here have mentioned trimming. My experience is that your cases don't need trimming for 2-5 reloading, and then there is a Lee tool (caliber specific) that makes case trimming with an electric drill quick and painless.
Beam scales are fine. Slow, but that 's part of the zen experience.
Stay away from Lee equipment except the case trimmers.
Hand primer tools are a very nice addition -- you can really feel the pressure of the primer going in and how deep it is going.
Bottom line -- for pure cost savings, reloading is probably not the way to go. For developing loads, it is definitely the way to go. And for the variety of bullet weights/designs you can access, variety of velocities, and other specialty tricks.
If your range is like mine, you'll notice there are a LOT of empty .223 and 9 mm brass casings on the ground. So many that a friend bought two rifles by aqwwping up and selling the brass. That tells you right off the bat that it is probably not cost effective to reload those calibers. IOW, loaded commercial ammo is too cheap to think you can save money by reloading.
Of course there is also the issue of picking up brass that has been scattered two or three yards -- that's a pain.
Others have weighed in on the press issue. I own an RCBS Rockchucker and a Co-Ax press (Forster). I seldom use the Co-Ax, but for one off loads it is definitely quicker than the RCBS (changing dies and shell holders of the RCBS takes time).
Several people here have mentioned trimming. My experience is that your cases don't need trimming for 2-5 reloading, and then there is a Lee tool (caliber specific) that makes case trimming with an electric drill quick and painless.
Beam scales are fine. Slow, but that 's part of the zen experience.
Stay away from Lee equipment except the case trimmers.
Hand primer tools are a very nice addition -- you can really feel the pressure of the primer going in and how deep it is going.
Bottom line -- for pure cost savings, reloading is probably not the way to go. For developing loads, it is definitely the way to go. And for the variety of bullet weights/designs you can access, variety of velocities, and other specialty tricks.
blacktail 8541
Well-Known Member
There is nothing like the feeling of rolling your own. Especially when you go down to the local shop and they do not have any ammo in stock that you need.
I have been loading for over 40 years and favor RCBS for my basic needs, the Rock Chucker supreme reloading kit is a great value to start with. Gives you every thing you need to start out minus dies shell holder and components. As you find out if reloading is for you, you will end up adding to your kit. That is just natural. If you decide it is not for you, it is easy to get most of your money back. Good luck, it is a great and rewarding hobby.
I have been loading for over 40 years and favor RCBS for my basic needs, the Rock Chucker supreme reloading kit is a great value to start with. Gives you every thing you need to start out minus dies shell holder and components. As you find out if reloading is for you, you will end up adding to your kit. That is just natural. If you decide it is not for you, it is easy to get most of your money back. Good luck, it is a great and rewarding hobby.
Poppadoer
Well-Known Member
Yes,the rock chucker kit will get you started for around $250 to $300.Dies,powder,primers,calipers,etc.It's a hobby but worth every penny if you enjoy doing it.Once you get set up you can reload ammo cheaper than buy them in a store.Good luck and happy reloading.
SCSCHNUR
Well-Known Member
Well Steve you will get great advice on here but you will develop your own loading stile. I started with Hornady single stage then bought a Hornady Progressive broke certain pieces on both Hornady always sent replacements but decided to buy a Redding Turret . Which if you only have three calibers you can have them all on your turret. It is a very strong and accurate press and I love Redding products dies ect. You will buy more as you go as it is addicting and a great hobby. Relaxes me when I reload. Built my own tumbler for cleaning brass and have an annealer so you will spend more so start with something that will last.
FL_SquirrelHunter
Member
Hi Steve, those are bottleneck so you will need case lube or wax. You will need a die set for each caliber which (by default) includes a decapping pin in the sizing die. You will also need two shell holders, one for the 308 & 7mm-08, the other for the .223. If you have only one rifle in a caliber, then a neck sizing set will do, but buying a full length sizing set is about the same cost and will work with any rifle in that caliber. You will need a press, single stage is fine and probably better for low volume shooting because it forces us to concentrate on doing one thing well at a time. You are going to crush some cases, it's part of learning. You will need a load data for the actual powder(s) you intend to use. You will need a scale which supports tare weight zeroing to measure the amount of powder, something which doesn't spark to put your powder into on its way to the case and a similar non-sparking funnel to get the measured powder into the case. You will need something to delicately sweep away and hold (trash can) small amounts of dropped powder/dust (it happens). Because single stage press work tends to result in batches you will need a tray to hold work-in-progress cases so they don't spill. (The press will move the bench a little.) You will need a set of clamps (or bolts) to keep the press in place while you work.
Pretty sure that a trip to the hardware store and a Lee Anniversary kit will satisfy what you have to have to get started at a nice low price. Most importantly, you need some clean, relaxing space to work with a couple of free hours to take your time and get the first loads.
What you don't need, but I highly recommend, is a good reloading book (second hand is fine) to peruse on the throne. Lee's manual reads like a friend is talking with you about his hobby, but any good manual will do.
I use some Lee die sets (they include shell holders, btw) but have an RCBS press and Hornady scale with Lyman manual. Single stage (and turret) presses all work pretty much the same way; I think only the warranties differ among brands.
Oh, you will also need a loving spouse who accepts your new avocation ... or a very good lawyer.
Welcome to the club. Stick with published loads and stay safe!
Brad Cromwell
Member
If you're just thinking of getting started I would not recommend going crazy. Reloading is not for everyone. It is tedious work. I personally reload for precision not price and not Volume . You can make very quality reloads with a rock Chuck press and a beam scale. I've been using the same Dillon scale for 25 years. First investment is a good reloading manual. Something I have found for equipment that now one seems to be talking about is Lee case gauge / Trimmer. Very cost affective and functional. Yes I trim every round every time.
FL_SquirrelHunter
Member
Least expensive press option is a hand press, we have one at camp for big bore revolvers making cheap, short range 'finishing' loads with Trail Boss. Kinda cool for that purpose but I strongly discourage you considering them for bottleneck cartridges or long range precision.
Still using a 25+ year old Rock Chucker kit with RCBS trimmer, powder dispenser, and trimmer. I added a Lee hand priming tool, made a baffle for the powder measure and use my cordless drill for power on the trimmer when needed. I also use the drill for chamfering. I have ultrasonic, vibrator and drum cleaners but the drum with walnut shells is my usual go to.
rickjoty
Well-Known Member
About reloading in general. For a boat, I have a power cruiser and when I am cruising, I almost never pick up a mooring, I anchor on my own. There is a principle to it. Why pay to park when I can park for free, I just need to exhibit some knowledge and skill.
Most of my rifles have never seen a factory load. I reload shotguns in 12, 16, 20 and 28 gauges. As mentioned earlier, if I was only shooting my 9mm pistol, why in the world would I spend the money and time on reloading. If I was only shooting skeet for fun with my 12 gauge, I wouldn't save much money reloading. But check out the cost of 28 gauge ammo. 3/4 oz of shot, a trickle of powder and pennies for a primer vs $12 a box. I save tons.
When I was working I loved to get into the garage and do something with my hands and take my mind away from the stress. I'll say now that I have more time, less stress, it is a little harder. Right now I have about 500 empty hulls of shotgun shells in 12, 20, and 28 ga that are calling me and here I am on the **** computer. What a world.
Most of my rifles have never seen a factory load. I reload shotguns in 12, 16, 20 and 28 gauges. As mentioned earlier, if I was only shooting my 9mm pistol, why in the world would I spend the money and time on reloading. If I was only shooting skeet for fun with my 12 gauge, I wouldn't save much money reloading. But check out the cost of 28 gauge ammo. 3/4 oz of shot, a trickle of powder and pennies for a primer vs $12 a box. I save tons.
When I was working I loved to get into the garage and do something with my hands and take my mind away from the stress. I'll say now that I have more time, less stress, it is a little harder. Right now I have about 500 empty hulls of shotgun shells in 12, 20, and 28 ga that are calling me and here I am on the **** computer. What a world.
marchboom
Well-Known Member
If I had been smarter I would have saved my pennies and bought the Co-Ax press when I first started reloading in the early 70's. But I didn't want to spend that much money. A good press will last thru several generations if taken care of. Don't buy cheap equipment! Notice I didn't say inexpensive. The difference between a Rock Chucker and the Co-Ax is about $150. Amortize that over your remaining years and it's a few bucks a year for a press that will be much more convenient to use, IMO. I didn't realize this until I got one and saw the benefits of it. Changing of the dies is the easiest of any press.
Don't go cheap on measuring equipment. Bad things can happen when certain dimensions are not adhered to.
Get a good powder measure! Digital or manual, doesn't matter. This is one area where you need accuracy.
Obtain, read and understand at least 3 reloading manuals. Find an EXPERIENCED mentor if possible.
Have fun.
Don't go cheap on measuring equipment. Bad things can happen when certain dimensions are not adhered to.
Get a good powder measure! Digital or manual, doesn't matter. This is one area where you need accuracy.
Obtain, read and understand at least 3 reloading manuals. Find an EXPERIENCED mentor if possible.
Have fun.
crkckr
Well-Known Member
I will have to say that virtually all of the kits I've seen tend to put at least a few things you will never use or will find other things that work better, leaving you with inferior junk you can't give away. It just takes time and experience to figure it out. I would recommend "at least" an RCBS Rockchucker press... but then it all comes down to what kind of accuracy you want. The higher your expectations the more you want to put into the press and the necessary accessories. A good dial caliper, case trimmer and especially a good scale. I always recommend a beam scale first, then a digital. I believe all digitals should be cross checked with either a beam scale or a really good set of check weights... and checked often. Beam scales don't drift like any electronic device can. They won't weigh individual grains or anything fancy but once properly set up and calibrated they will at least keep your fancy electric scale honest! You will also need a way to clean your brass and I would recommed the BoreTech brass cleaner. I've just recently purchased some and I like the way it works... that is, easy and well! You can get better dies than RCBS but again, how much accuracy are you wanting? Redding might be best (subject to personal preference, of course) but you will pay dearly for any jump in accuracy. Personally, the only Lee product I use is a hand priming tool, which they no longer sell. I have not heard much good about the new ones they have. I will also admit to modifying mine to keep them going. Honestly, I'm not sure what hand primer to recommed these days, no matter what brand you pick you will find people who love them and usually a nearly equal number who just flat out hate them! I guess it depends on volume and ease of use? Do some reading and maybe try some different ones out, if possible. You'll need a way to lube your cases. Many swear by Imperial sizing wax (I don't think I've ever read anything bad about it) however I'm still using the old water soluble RCBS case lube. There's a learning curve as how much and where to lube, however. Not enough and the case gets stuck in the die and is a major pain to remove unless you can use your wife's ultrasonic jewelry cleaner without getting caught! Too much and you dent the cases. It's all part of the learning curve, which every part of reloading has. You will also need at least 3 manuals to load by. I recommend Lyman, Sierra & either Speer or Hornady (all 4 is the best bet!). Hodgdon, Alliant and Western are all online these days. None of these sources are the Ultimate when it comes to how much powder to use. You always need to start out at low or mid-range charges and work up to max loads (if that's what you're looking for) because every rifle is unique. Internal ballistics are part science and part voodoo. There's a learning curve, of course. Starting out from the beginning can be daunting but once you start putting out the highest quality ammo available on Earth (assuming you do it right!), it will be worth all the gnashing of teeth and worry (not to mention cost!) associated with starting out from scratch. Read up on everything. There's a wealth of info on this forum alone! Although often enough you'll come away not knowing what the devil to do because of all the conflicting opinions! But, man, is it ever fun!
Cheers,
crkckr
Cheers,
crkckr
In reloading, as in most undertakings, a lot depends on your goals. Are you trying to save money? Learn a new skill as a hobby? Create high quality benchrest ammo for long distance or target shooting in general? Experiment with wildcats? Make hard-to-find ammo, or experiment with unavailable bullet weights or types in a given caliber? For rifles or handguns? Your motives drive what you buy and how you approach the subject. You are right to set out your goals as a first step.
For many, it's fun, but it's not economical unless you shoot A LOT, and the economy depends on rifle vs. handgun vs. use of the ammunition created. Handgun ammo tends to be cheaper to reload only because you can use cheap cast bullets, because handgun velocities are low enough that leading isn't a problem. Likewise for low-velocity rifle rounds. But once you start buying premium rifle bullets at $1.00 each, forget saving money reloading. That's clearly the province of benchrest, wildcatters, long range hunters (what's the name of this forum?), etc. In your case, customizing ammo, the financial aspect takes somewhat of a back seat. But volume doesn't.
What volume are you contemplating needing? I started - MANY years ago - with handheld Lee Loaders. Cheap, they work, the ammo was fine, and I REALLY DID SAVE ACTUAL MONEY! What a concept! As soon as you start with buying presses, figure you are going to have to amortize around $100 to $200 in equipment cost through ammo savings before you even break even. How much do you shoot, and how much is your time worth per hour? And the space in your house that has to be dedicated to the activity? And the bench to mount the press? And on and on.
Here's a link to a great comparison video on presses:
Hope this helps. Reloading is fun, but you have to go in with eyes open.
For many, it's fun, but it's not economical unless you shoot A LOT, and the economy depends on rifle vs. handgun vs. use of the ammunition created. Handgun ammo tends to be cheaper to reload only because you can use cheap cast bullets, because handgun velocities are low enough that leading isn't a problem. Likewise for low-velocity rifle rounds. But once you start buying premium rifle bullets at $1.00 each, forget saving money reloading. That's clearly the province of benchrest, wildcatters, long range hunters (what's the name of this forum?), etc. In your case, customizing ammo, the financial aspect takes somewhat of a back seat. But volume doesn't.
What volume are you contemplating needing? I started - MANY years ago - with handheld Lee Loaders. Cheap, they work, the ammo was fine, and I REALLY DID SAVE ACTUAL MONEY! What a concept! As soon as you start with buying presses, figure you are going to have to amortize around $100 to $200 in equipment cost through ammo savings before you even break even. How much do you shoot, and how much is your time worth per hour? And the space in your house that has to be dedicated to the activity? And the bench to mount the press? And on and on.
Here's a link to a great comparison video on presses:
Hope this helps. Reloading is fun, but you have to go in with eyes open.
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