Multi point glass bedding

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by davebutler, Mar 2, 2009.

  1. davebutler

    davebutler Member

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    I have 2 Remington VTR rifles. a 223 and 308 and would like to try to make them as accurate as I a can. I looked on line about glass bedding and saw several references to multi point bedding. Beyound the obvious, that being more than one bedding point, is there a particular place long the stock forend that I should concentrate on. There was also a point that the rifle was to fond of free floating. Any personal knowledge or thoughts are apprecated..
     
  2. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    I've bedded more rifles than I can remember and I would like to know what multi point bedding is too.

    I think you'll find that if you just stick to tried and true pillar bedding techniques you'll have reliable and predictable performance from your rifle.
     

  3. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    Dave and Chad, JE Custom and I saw a rifle with several 1/4" diameter fibrous dowels (fiberglass?) set end-up and epoxied into holes drilled in the area between the recoil lug and the mag well, and a couple imbedded under the tang. The best way I can describe them is that they were like tiny pilings set into the stock to support the action. It's the only one I've ever seen and might be called multipoint bedding???

    I'm just guessing, Tom
     
  4. davewilson

    davewilson Well-Known Member

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    JE Custom and I saw a rifle with several 1/4" diameter fibrous dowels (fiberglass?) set end-up and epoxied into holes drilled in the area between the recoil lug and the mag well, and a couple imbedded under the tang.

    this sounds like a great technique for the beginner to try!
     
  5. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    Bedding.

    Just the name kinda reminds me of a cozy pile of linen begging to be snuggled up in. Fibrous pilings or pillars remind me of a bed of nails or kinky goth porno. (oops, secrets out. . .)

    Bedding is cool, sexy, and shooters can be a bit evangelical about it.

    It's a casting of the receiver that is inert to weather. That's it. As long as the resin system used has minimal shrinkage, good resistance to chemicals, sufficient hardness and high shear/compressive strength, it will work. The hype about one particular brand over another doesn't make the bedding any better or worse, it's what is easiest/most affordable/available for the gunsmith to use.

    I've bedded guns with $5.00 tubes of epoxy and I've used stuff that's over $100 bucks a pint. The rifle didn't notice the difference.

    As I've preached and preached before. A properly done bedding job makes a great rifle exceptional, it makes a good gun great, and etc. . .It will NOT however polish a turd.

    That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
     
  6. jerrschmitt

    jerrschmitt Well-Known Member

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    At last! Some common sense. I can't count the number of posts I've read over the years that touted one brand ov goop over another. None offered any real proof that their goop worked any better than anything else. I've been bedding rifles for about 50 years and I've tried a lot of diffrent crap. Brownell's, Marine tec, JB Weld, they all work. If someone wants to tell me that their goop shrinks less than mine, Proove it!
     
  7. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    We're off the multipoint bedding, but in 1972 I bedded a Mk X Mauser, Shilen barreled 7 Rem Mag in a fence post stock with just plain 2-part epoxy that I filled with aluminum bandsaw cuttings. Just mixed it in until it wouldn't drip too bad. You can't believe how ugly that bedding was. But that gun would hammer. 1 hole at 300 yds, nothing but V's and 5's at 1000 yds, (1973 L/R target). I've had some good guns since that one, but none that I ever had more confidence in. Some benchrest guy calls exceptional barrels "hummers". This whole gun was a hummer. When your pullers have to stop to replace a target center at 1000 yds, (20 rd string) something's working. I wish I could say it was me, but I was just holding the damn thing.

    As much as anyone, I believe that a good bedding job is not dependent on the cost of the compound. But.....I confess that I started using Brownell's SteelBed recently. I like the way it works (doesn't drip all over everything), the slow cure rate, and the strength and stability of the finished job. There are probably many compounds just as good for a whole lot less money, but I'm unwilling to experiment (scared to).

    Back to the multi-point question; has anyone else seen the bedding I described, or seen something else that might be multi-point bedding? I'm curious too.

    Good hunting, Tom
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2009
  8. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    THANKS CHAD FOR MAKING MY DAY !!!!! ( THE LAST PART ABOUT THE TURD CRACKED ME UP)

    I have not tried to polish one I guess because I prefer a mat finish on most every thing !

    J E CUSTOM
     
  9. davebutler

    davebutler Member

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    I belive the answer is in these replies somewhere. Multi point bedding may just be a coined word that someone dreamed up to make it seem more complexed or special. I am 66 years old and as was so elliquently stated, crap is crap and any type of strong resin is going to work well. I am agoing to bed my VTR to just forward of the barrel lug and a glassed forearm rest to keep it stable. Will see what happens from there. Thanks Dave