The dos and don't s of glass bedding a rem age or a savage stock
Glass bedding
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sable tireur
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This is probably the most copied or quoted article about stock bedding:
https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/
There are dozens of articles and You Tube videos from all kinds of folks who have an opinion on their methods being correct. Read through this one then hunt out the ones which will help you resolve the details.
Enjoy!
https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/
There are dozens of articles and You Tube videos from all kinds of folks who have an opinion on their methods being correct. Read through this one then hunt out the ones which will help you resolve the details.
Enjoy!
^^^
That.
Because of the location of the rear action screw on Savages, it's generally recommended to not bed the tang area and float it.
Personally, I don't think it makes a difference IF the receiver is correctly bedded/stress free, and I've got a couple that I've done that way which prove it. That said, if you're a novice at bedding leaving the tang floating is the "safe" bet.
That.
Because of the location of the rear action screw on Savages, it's generally recommended to not bed the tang area and float it.
Personally, I don't think it makes a difference IF the receiver is correctly bedded/stress free, and I've got a couple that I've done that way which prove it. That said, if you're a novice at bedding leaving the tang floating is the "safe" bet.
Normal Savage plastic stocks are difficult to bed. You will have to drill holes and rough up all the areas you want to bed. Without exception. I've done 3-4 and they are not "epoxy" friendly.
Don't know about the Remage.
Don't know about the Remage.
Lefty38-55
Well-Known Member
A looooong time ago I wrote a full tutorial with detailed pictures for bedding Savage rifles that was hosted on Accurate Reloading, then Sniper Hide and eventually the old Savage Forums, at least before their re-boot. The article was 'Lefty's 101 Savage Glass Bedding' and can be found cached in some places. I can't get to those sites now, as am running from a work server.
But others hit the high points above, i.e., don't bed the rear tang, leave it floated, use extensive 'mechanical locks' in plastic stocks, etc. I also made extensive use of carbon arrows, with holes cut into the sides (like Swiss cheese), for stiffening up flimsy forends.
Again, the holes in tubes allow the epoxy to mechanically bond to the material. In blind holes in wood, say for a repair area, it also allows the epoxy to soak in everywhere, as a 'blind hole' can often become a 'dry hole' as the air at the bottom of the hole prevents full penetration. Which is why I never use 'solid' dowells for any stock repairs.
But others hit the high points above, i.e., don't bed the rear tang, leave it floated, use extensive 'mechanical locks' in plastic stocks, etc. I also made extensive use of carbon arrows, with holes cut into the sides (like Swiss cheese), for stiffening up flimsy forends.
Again, the holes in tubes allow the epoxy to mechanically bond to the material. In blind holes in wood, say for a repair area, it also allows the epoxy to soak in everywhere, as a 'blind hole' can often become a 'dry hole' as the air at the bottom of the hole prevents full penetration. Which is why I never use 'solid' dowells for any stock repairs.
