I will not shoot/nor reload mixed brass. a waste of time and money with little likelihood of hitting anything.
Frustrated...need help!
- Thread starter BoomFlop
- Start date
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59FLH
Well-Known Member
Boom, you should do what makes you comfortable, good call. But as an FYI for the future, you cannot make them " to short" with a FL size die. They may be shorter then you want but that's all. FL dies size below SAAMI minimum by design.
So why all the talk about jamming a bullet, etc to get them to elongate while still pushing the head against the bolt face (guessing that is the purpose of the jammed bullet) to prevent case separation in the web of the case?
Correct, jamming the bullet will keep the case pushed all the way back forcing the shoulder to form to your chamber. You want the shoulder to form instead of the case lengthening just forward of the case head. I wouldn't mess with jamming bullets until after a little more experience and understanding how to see pressure signs.
LaHunter
Well-Known Member
If I read correctly, it seems as though you were trying to measure CBTO without depriming the brass. Also, you had some primers that were backed out, which would be a little alarming to me. You don't need to target SAAMI specs for your brass, you need to size for your chamber.
So...not to rain on the parade here BUT, buying NEW brass does not change the equation you are already facing. If you are trying to get 'perfect fit, minimally sized' brass for load development (which is what it sounds like you are trying to do and many are encouraging you to do), then the NEW Starline brass you buy will STILL need to be fire-formed in your rifle, just like your CURRENT Lake City brass, which has been run through your sizer. So...there is nothing different with the Starline brass, other than you are 'abandoning' perfectly good, safe USED brass, for NEW perfectly good, safe brass (that will also have to be resized before first use!)
Now that we are all pretty clear on the direction you are trying to go (minimally sized brass with minimal shoulder setback), then @milo-2 was pointing you in the right direction when he said:
And this is NOT advanced or beyond you. Go with the 'start' load in the manual, seat your bullets so they are just being held in the case, then go fire them. You will have to single load them due to their length. And as you push them into the gun and lower the bolt, you will be pushing the bullet into the case via the leade, while keeping the case pushed as far back (against the bolt face) as possible, meaning the SHOULDER will blow forward when firing, preventing any case stretch issues at the case head.
It is SAFE. It is EASY. And it will be a fun day at the range since you can work on your shooting technique and just relax as this isn't about "load development" at this point. And when you are done firing your 109 pieces of brass, they will be PERFECT for what you plan to do next (minimally size and minimally push back the shoulder so they are 'perfect' for YOUR rifle chamber.) Then you can do load development to your heart's content.
But is all this NECESSARY? No. Not at all. But some people are making it SOUND like all that was necessary, and that kind of bums me out. You can load really accurate, really safe, really good ammo without all this fussing around. Will you have to buy replacement brass a little sooner than going through all this rigamarole? Probably. But you are just getting started, so who really cares? Maybe you only get 6 firings from your brass vs 10. It's not a big deal.
Start with the basics: size per the die maker's instructions, follow the powder and/or bullet maker's reloading recipes (starting low and working up toward max), sticking with the book COAL for now, and you will have fun, make good ammo, and learn what your gun likes and doesn't like. Over time, once you have gotten your feet wet and have realized you aren't going to blow yourself and your gun up, THEN you start doing some of the more esoteric things being suggested by the ADVANCED reloaders that are on LRH. And man, there are some ADVANCED reloaders on here! And that's a good thing. For when you are ready. Because I think EVERYONE that has responded just wants to help you. We are all rooting for you. And no one wants you to feel unsafe or in danger.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do Steve.
milo-2
Well-Known Member
I have pm'd boom flop, there is 109 total pcs of brass in question. I reiterated some options, he feels like starting over with new best route a this point. And I agree with him, I would not pitch the 109 myself.
In retrospect. for a new loader, taking brass from other chambers and trying to make them fit in new chambers may have been over his pay grade.
He needs a fresh stab at this, I'm willing to encourage that, he can learn as he goes.
AGAIN
DO NOT DO THIS.
for the same reason i posted the first time.
use the IGNORE function on anyone telling you to do this.
this is 2109 we are way beyond that (stupid) approach to reloading.
DO NOT DO THIS.
for the same reason i posted the first time.
use the IGNORE function on anyone telling you to do this.
this is 2109 we are way beyond that (stupid) approach to reloading.
I was unaware that the Hornady case gauge measured both length and diameters. The Wilson does it, too, to a degree. If the resized case slips in easily and sets flat & flush at the head, it's a safe bet to believe the case is correctly sized at its several diameters.
I'm not doubting your faith in the Hornady item. I'm saying I've never had the bolt carrier group fail to fully close and securely lock-up in the AR-type rifles I have, nor have I ever had a difficult closing and lock-up in my Howa M1500 in .223Rem. The Wilson does the job for me; I'll continue to use it...
Frog4aday
Thank you for our prior PM's and your help!
milo-2
Thank you for the phone call and conversation today!
To everyone else, I truly appreciate all your advise and guidance.
I ordered 500 pc of Starline brass today, along with a Lee Decapping Die and some other misc items. I'm going to start with fresh brass. Document shoulder measurement, web diameter, shoulder diameter, neck diameter and base to datum measurement for reference before loading. I will double check neck tension, trim if needed and chamfer and debur. Maybe even weigh a few cases just to see.
Wish me luck!
Happy Holidays!!
Steve
Thank you for our prior PM's and your help!
milo-2
Thank you for the phone call and conversation today!
To everyone else, I truly appreciate all your advise and guidance.
I ordered 500 pc of Starline brass today, along with a Lee Decapping Die and some other misc items. I'm going to start with fresh brass. Document shoulder measurement, web diameter, shoulder diameter, neck diameter and base to datum measurement for reference before loading. I will double check neck tension, trim if needed and chamfer and debur. Maybe even weigh a few cases just to see.
Wish me luck!
Happy Holidays!!
Steve
do not get to concerned with the NEW brass size/numbers. new is normally way under size to ensure it works.
deprime and measure after first firings
esp get numbers from full power loads.
and record them
get a note book and write everything down.
a note of caution with the lee decapper, the main pin
has a very flat nose that will ruin case necks in a heartbeat.
consider tapering the end to get it to feed better in the small 223 case mouth.
deprime and measure after first firings
esp get numbers from full power loads.
and record them
get a note book and write everything down.
a note of caution with the lee decapper, the main pin
has a very flat nose that will ruin case necks in a heartbeat.
consider tapering the end to get it to feed better in the small 223 case mouth.
