Bedding

[25WSM]

Jud 96 the reason you can't just put the action right back in the stock is you need to be certain your receiver will have full clearance all around it. If it's touching the stock in various places when screwed in those places will cause stress. If you have glued in pillers you can cut away the material that the action touches and then you can screw the action down to the pillers. I only use the back guard screw. I squeeze the action in and tighten gently the rear screw till it just stops on the pillers. Then I let the weight of the barrel hold down the front. You can put a small amount of tape on your barrel to help it stay centered in your stock but 9 times out of 10 it just goes straight with out help. The reason I say you don't need to do all that on an aluminum block it they are pretty straight and only touch the action on two little edges going down the action. A skin coat and light pressure from the screws will give you 100 percent contact. I only use the rear screw for these also.
Shep

 

[ntsqd]

I read about tuning the assembly with action screw torque a lot on the Rimfire Central forum. Seems like the CZ guys are particularly interested in this.

I think that if you're going to get that deep into tuning the rifle that you need a GOOD torque wrench, and that is not a Wheeler FAT wrench. I prefer beam style wrenches because you can see when they're out of calibration and can correct it. Clicker types need to be sent out to be re-calibrated and short of doing this regularly you have no idea if the wrench is still in calibration or not. All it takes is for it to be put away once still wound up and it is suspect.

 

[25WSM]

Mram seems you and I are always on the same threads. You can prove it to yourself. I learned it from a friend who has won the world open 1000 br. He starts at 40 inch pounds on both screws. Then puts 10 more on the front. Then 10 more on the back and keeps going that way till he's at 80. So here is the sequence.
F40 and R40
F50 and R40
F50 and R50
F60 and R50
And so on.
He uses a very nice torque wrench and retorques his action before every relay. I started by finding my best load at 300 yards that's as far as I can shoot at my shop. And then start the torque sequence with 5 shot groups. You will see the changes. And it almost always is not what you normally use for your torque. I'm a 60 and 40 guy but proved to myself it can be better at different torques.
Shep

 

[Mram10us]

Mram seems you and I are always on the same threads. You can prove it to yourself. I learned it from a friend who has won the world open 1000 br. He starts at 40 inch pounds on both screws. Then puts 10 more on the front. Then 10 more on the back and keeps going that way till he's at 80. So here is the sequence.
F40 and R40
F50 and R40
F50 and R50
F60 and R50
And so on.
He uses a very nice torque wrench and retorques his action before every relay. I started by finding my best load at 300 yards that's as far as I can shoot at my shop. And then start the torque sequence with 5 shot groups. You will see the changes. And it almost always is not what you normally use for your torque. I'm a 60 and 40 guy but proved to myself it can be better at different torques.
Shep

We're on here way too much btw, hope the hospital stay was as good as could be.
I prefer to see someone with experience doing the write up or video since I might miss many of the nuances associated.

 

[25WSM]

Hospital stay sucked butt. Was in pain for 19 days before the surgery then 3 days after. The surgery worked perfectly and I'm home pain free for the first time in 11 yrs.
Tuning with the action screws is really straight forward. Change the torque one screw at a time with your best load. Pick the best one and your done. You will see your group size change.
Shep

 

[GregH118]

I'm new at this whole process so do I do a skim coat along my action then tighten the rear screw and just let the weight of the barrel take care of the front then when all done tighten front and back screws like normal

 

[25WSM]

You need to put enough bedding material to cover all the bottom half of receiver and recoil lug recess. Yes it will squeeze out and need cleaned up. When the action is all the way down touching the aluminum put the rear screw in and snug it up till it's touching and back it off 1/4 turn. The barrel weight sitting out the front will apply enough downward force to keep the action down. Some people use both screws and some people use big elastic bands. Doesn't matter one bit as long as you don't induce any stress in the action. The who point of bedding is to make the action fit precisely and without stress. Make sure to use a good release agent on all your metal work or you will have trouble getting it out of the stock. The bedding that squeezed out on the top of your stock can be left there till your bedding feels like tootsiroll
Or taffey. Then it can be scraped up with a popcycle stick sharpened up.
Once you scrape it up real good take a few patches with some wd40 or any solvent that won't harm your stock and wipe up the little stuff. Look over your whole stock real close because if you get some on it and it dries it's a real beech to get off. Good luck.
Shep

 

[GregH118]

Thank you so much

 

[GregH118]

Another question should I dremel out some of the stock to make room for the epoxy. My stock is a Manners MCS-T it has aluminum pillars does it also have a aluminum chassis?

 

[25WSM]

Got to see if it has aluminum rails that are exposed. If it doesn't I would at least grind through the paint down to the fiberglass. Then clean the area up with alcohol on rag.
Shep

 

[aushunter1]

Another question should I dremel out some of the stock to make room for the epoxy. My stock is a Manners MCS-T it has aluminum pillars does it also have a aluminum chassis?

Its not all about making room for the epoxy & yes there needs to be enough room for it but also 'roughing' up a surface gives something for the epoxy to grip to.
Epoxy doesn't really like things like synthetic & highly polished materials so roughing up the indended surface helps the epoxy grip to it, imo