Factory barrel break procedure

Nikolakangrga

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How do you guys feel about this procedure? Found it online and was thinking about using it on a new Kimber Montana I just got. Thanks


Break-in procedure for factory barrels:
Clean.
Work the first 4-5 inches of barrel from breech with a small amount of JB bore paste on a patch, back and forth 10-15 times.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 two more times.
Clean.
Fire one shot, clean. (repeat 5 times for SS barrel, 10-15 times for Chrome-Moly barrels)
Fire three shots, clean. (repeat 3 times for Chrome barrel)
Fire five shots, clean.
Now repeat that whole process until copper fouling is minimized – usually about 3 times on a centerfire rifle, 5 times on a rimfire rifle.
 
Seems excessive to me, I don't mess with factory barrels much though. Don't Kimbers come with good barrels that don't need all that effort?
 
I have 3 Kimber montana's and one of the barrels needed 10 break in rounds. The second one took close to 60. It was very rough. I was thinking about trying this method for this barrel but was not sure if I should
 
My break-in procedure for factory barrels is as follows; Make sure you have the correct bushing for your barrel vise. Put the barrel in the vise and snug it down tight. Place the action wrench on the action and remove the action from the barrel. Remove the barrel from the vise. Take it to the scrap bin or the garden (for a tomatoe stake). This only applies to firearms that have no 'collectable' value.
 
My break-in procedure for factory barrels is as follows; Make sure you have the correct bushing for your barrel vise. Put the barrel in the vise and snug it down tight. Place the action wrench on the action and remove the action from the barrel. Remove the barrel from the vise. Take it to the scrap bin or the garden (for a tomatoe stake). This only applies to firearms that have no 'collectable' value.

If this were a couple years ago, I may have taken offense to that:D. But since your my gunsmith, and your building my new LR Rifle ill just laugh, & shake my head. I keep learning things I thought I already knew.... I've had some factory shooters. But I suppose in comparison to a high quality, aftermarket barrel on a squared, & trued action, done right by a reputable gun plumber, none of my factory sticks would compare. I seriously can't wait to see what you've made!!! I'm waiting on pins, & needles!!
Your the man Ted:Dgun)

In answer to the question on "how can you tell when its broke in?"
The short answer is, your cleaning time is cut down drastically, & your groups tend to be more consistant in comparison. In essence, your just knocking down the rough edges.
 
20 years ago, I thought I had some factory "shooters", too. Then I started shootin' the custom barrels I was learning to chamber in G.S. school. Chambering came easy to me as I already had 17-18 years experience as a job shop machinist. My mind got changed about those factory "shooters" I'd had. For what a new Cooper or Kimber will cost these days I'd opt for a used Winchester 70 or a Model 700 with a custom tube. Wouldn't even have to be a Krieger/Hart/Broughton/Lilja/ect./ect. to out shoot a factory tube,,,,,,, a MRC (Montana Rifle Co.) barrel will do it,, as long as it's fit/chambered/crowned with care (have no experience with A&B or Shaw). Custom barrels will give you a whole new mind-set! and factory will become a distant memory. I just can't help myself!
 
Gale McMillan wrote in 1999:

The break in fad was started by a fellow I helped get started in the barrel business. He started putting a set of break in instructions in ever barrel he shipped. One came into the shop to be installed and I read it and the next time I saw him I asked him "What was with this break in crap?" His answer was "Mac, My share of the market is about 700 barrels a year. I cater to the target crowd and they shoot a barrel about 3000 rounds before they change it. If each one uses up 100 rounds of each barrel breaking it in you can figure out how many more barrels I will get to make each year." If you will stop and think that the barrel doesn't know whether you are cleaning it every shot or every 5 shots and if you are removing all foreign material that has been deposited in it since the last time you cleaned it what more can you do? When I ship a barrel I send a recommendation with it that you clean it ever chance you get with a brass brush pushed through it at least 12 times with a good solvent and followed by two and only 2 soft patches. This means if you are a bench rest shooter you clean ever 7 or 8 rounds . If you are a high power shooter you clean it when you come off the line after 20 rounds. If you follow the fad of cleaning every shot for X amount and every 2 shots for X amount and so on the only thing you are accomplishing is shortening the life of the barrel by the amount of rounds you shot during this process. I always say Monkey see Monkey do, now I will wait on the flames but before you write them, Please include what you think is happening inside your barrel during break in that is worth the expense and time you are spending during break in.

McMillan wrote in January, 2000:

I will make one last post on this subject and appeal to logic on this subject I think it is the height of arrogance to believe a novice can improve a barrel using a cleaning rod more than that a barrel maker can do with 30 years of experience and a million dollars in equipment. The barrel is a relatively precise bit of machining and to imagine that it can be improved on with a bit of abrasive smeared on a patch or embedded in a bullet. The surface finish of a barrel is a delicate thing with more of them being ruined with a cleaning rod in the hands of someone who doesn't know how to use one. I would never in a million years buy a used rifle now because you well may buy one that has been improved. First give a little thought to what you think you are accomplishing with any of the break in methods. Do you really believe that if what you are doing would help a barrel that the barrel maker wouldn't have already done it. The best marketing advantage he can have is for his barrels to out perform his competitors! Of coarse he is happy to see you poking things in your barrel . Its only going to improve his sales. Get real!!!! I am not saying the following to brag because the record speak for its self. McMillan barrels won the gold at 4 straight Olympics. Won the Leach Cup eight years running. Had more barrels in the Wimbledon shoot off every year for 4 straight years than any other make. Set the national 1000 yard record 17 times in one year. Held 7 world records at the same time in the NBRSA . Won the national silhouette matches 5 straight times and set 3 world records while doing that . Shot the only two 6400 scores in the history of small bore and holds a 100 yard world record that will stand for ever at .009 of one inch. All with barrels the shooter didn't have to improve on by breaking them in.
 
My break-in procedure for factory barrels is as follows; Make sure you have the correct bushing for your barrel vise. Put the barrel in the vise and snug it down tight. Place the action wrench on the action and remove the action from the barrel. Remove the barrel from the vise. Take it to the scrap bin or the garden (for a tomatoe stake). This only applies to firearms that have no 'collectable' value.

I would have to agree that his would be the best method but if your set on a break in for a factory barrel i would go with a tubbs kit shoot the 3's 4's and 5's. 10 shots 3's clean 10shots 4's clean 10shots 5' clean it has worked well in my factory barrels in the past (which I no longer have) but I would still have to agree with shortgrass ,that comment made my knight Ha Ha thanks for the laugh
 
Factory barrels come in three varities,, pretty good, mediocre, and not worth having. "Pretty Good" doesn't seem to be the norm , these days,,, the other 'options' are! It's "the luck of the draw" and doesn't seem to matter which major maker made it or what you paid for it. I have to completly agree with Bart,,, I have no idea what makes a novice think he can make the inside of his barrel better. I guess with some factory barrels you have nothing to loose! After you've 'fooled with it' by shoving abrasives in, out, and thru it,and it still has problems, nobody will warrant it. If it was a new motorcycle or pick-up you'd just bought, you'd not think twice about taking it back if you thought it wasn't 'right'!
 
I wouldn't consider Kimber or Cooper "custom rifles" buy any means. Are they offered with any option or in any configuration you my want? No, they are not, they're offered only in certain configurations.
 
Yup I hear where you guys are coming from regarding custom vs factory barrels. But my Kimber Montana .300wm shoots .5 MOA out to 450 sometimes 500 yards and goes up to 3/4 MOA from that point out to 800 yards. I have a hard time keeping the groups tight past 450 yards with such a light rifle. My other Montana shoots 3/4 MOA out to 400 and begins to open up to 1 MOA out to 800. Not awesome groups but or such a light wight backpack rifle I am very happy with both.
 
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