Factory barrel break procedure

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Nikolakangrga, Apr 23, 2012.

  1. Nikolakangrga

    Nikolakangrga Well-Known Member

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    How do you guys feel about this procedure? Found it online and was thinking about using it on a new Kimber Montana I just got. Thanks


    Break-in procedure for factory barrels:
    Clean.
    Work the first 4-5 inches of barrel from breech with a small amount of JB bore paste on a patch, back and forth 10-15 times.
    Repeat steps 1 and 2 two more times.
    Clean.
    Fire one shot, clean. (repeat 5 times for SS barrel, 10-15 times for Chrome-Moly barrels)
    Fire three shots, clean. (repeat 3 times for Chrome barrel)
    Fire five shots, clean.
    Now repeat that whole process until copper fouling is minimized – usually about 3 times on a centerfire rifle, 5 times on a rimfire rifle.
     
  2. Nikolakangrga

    Nikolakangrga Well-Known Member

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    No opinions on this procedure?
     

  3. KRP

    KRP Well-Known Member

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    Seems excessive to me, I don't mess with factory barrels much though. Don't Kimbers come with good barrels that don't need all that effort?
     
  4. Nikolakangrga

    Nikolakangrga Well-Known Member

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    I have 3 Kimber montana's and one of the barrels needed 10 break in rounds. The second one took close to 60. It was very rough. I was thinking about trying this method for this barrel but was not sure if I should
     
  5. KRP

    KRP Well-Known Member

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    How did you decide the barrel was "broke in"? Did it shoot better?
     
  6. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

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    My break-in procedure for factory barrels is as follows; Make sure you have the correct bushing for your barrel vise. Put the barrel in the vise and snug it down tight. Place the action wrench on the action and remove the action from the barrel. Remove the barrel from the vise. Take it to the scrap bin or the garden (for a tomatoe stake). This only applies to firearms that have no 'collectable' value.
     
  7. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    If this were a couple years ago, I may have taken offense to that:D. But since your my gunsmith, and your building my new LR Rifle ill just laugh, & shake my head. I keep learning things I thought I already knew.... I've had some factory shooters. But I suppose in comparison to a high quality, aftermarket barrel on a squared, & trued action, done right by a reputable gun plumber, none of my factory sticks would compare. I seriously can't wait to see what you've made!!! I'm waiting on pins, & needles!!
    Your the man Ted:Dgun)

    In answer to the question on "how can you tell when its broke in?"
    The short answer is, your cleaning time is cut down drastically, & your groups tend to be more consistant in comparison. In essence, your just knocking down the rough edges.
     
  8. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

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    20 years ago, I thought I had some factory "shooters", too. Then I started shootin' the custom barrels I was learning to chamber in G.S. school. Chambering came easy to me as I already had 17-18 years experience as a job shop machinist. My mind got changed about those factory "shooters" I'd had. For what a new Cooper or Kimber will cost these days I'd opt for a used Winchester 70 or a Model 700 with a custom tube. Wouldn't even have to be a Krieger/Hart/Broughton/Lilja/ect./ect. to out shoot a factory tube,,,,,,, a MRC (Montana Rifle Co.) barrel will do it,, as long as it's fit/chambered/crowned with care (have no experience with A&B or Shaw). Custom barrels will give you a whole new mind-set! and factory will become a distant memory. I just can't help myself!
     
  9. Bart B

    Bart B Well-Known Member

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    Gale McMillan wrote in 1999:

    McMillan wrote in January, 2000:

     
  10. 270winshort

    270winshort Well-Known Member

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    I would have to agree that his would be the best method but if your set on a break in for a factory barrel i would go with a tubbs kit shoot the 3's 4's and 5's. 10 shots 3's clean 10shots 4's clean 10shots 5' clean it has worked well in my factory barrels in the past (which I no longer have) but I would still have to agree with shortgrass ,that comment made my knight Ha Ha thanks for the laugh
     
  11. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

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    Factory barrels come in three varities,, pretty good, mediocre, and not worth having. "Pretty Good" doesn't seem to be the norm , these days,,, the other 'options' are! It's "the luck of the draw" and doesn't seem to matter which major maker made it or what you paid for it. I have to completly agree with Bart,,, I have no idea what makes a novice think he can make the inside of his barrel better. I guess with some factory barrels you have nothing to loose! After you've 'fooled with it' by shoving abrasives in, out, and thru it,and it still has problems, nobody will warrant it. If it was a new motorcycle or pick-up you'd just bought, you'd not think twice about taking it back if you thought it wasn't 'right'!
     
  12. FEENIX

    FEENIX Well-Known Member

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    ... but isn't Kimber considered custom rifle thus having custom barrels? :rolleyes:

    Bart B - nice post and thanks for sharing.
     
  13. shortgrass

    shortgrass Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't consider Kimber or Cooper "custom rifles" buy any means. Are they offered with any option or in any configuration you my want? No, they are not, they're offered only in certain configurations.
     
  14. Nikolakangrga

    Nikolakangrga Well-Known Member

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    Yup I hear where you guys are coming from regarding custom vs factory barrels. But my Kimber Montana .300wm shoots .5 MOA out to 450 sometimes 500 yards and goes up to 3/4 MOA from that point out to 800 yards. I have a hard time keeping the groups tight past 450 yards with such a light rifle. My other Montana shoots 3/4 MOA out to 400 and begins to open up to 1 MOA out to 800. Not awesome groups but or such a light wight backpack rifle I am very happy with both.