How ofter do u uniform primer pockets.

timmyatnop

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I uniform my primer pockets ,after every shot but i just had a couple of 338 edge rounds not fire. Primers had been struck by firing pin but did not fire. Cci 250 were the primers , what do u think my cultript is the primers or the brass.
 
I never have and never had a problem. I uniform flash hole first time and that is it. I dump primers in self feed tray and hand prime, without touching them. If you get case lube or such you can have a problem. If you like alot of lube on bolt you can create a sticky firing pin. You can have a wrong aplication trigger set in action and not get complete fire pin travel, broken pin. Once I got a small piece of puntured primer wedged between pin and fire pin hole in bolt.Can have a improper headspace and get a weak hit?
 
I uniform my primer pockets ,after every shot but i just had a couple of 338 edge rounds not fire. Primers had been struck by firing pin but did not fire. Cci 250 were the primers , what do u think my cultript is the primers or the brass.

Just a few thoughts and questions. The DEPTH of your uniform should be .122. If it is much more than that, you could be getting a lite strike. I typically use the uniformed to CLEAN the pocket, after each firing. Some time it just takes out the carbon, and sometimes it takes out a little brass as well. I believe that it takes out brass due to pressure pushing back the web a little. Check a piece of brass with a new primer installed. It should be just a little below flush. Just enough to catch your finger nail. If you are still getting a no fire situation, you may have a headspace issue, or a firing pin issue. If in doubt, have a smith check it and make sure you give him some brass that will not fire. Hope this helps. 7STWlightbulb
 
I do it once, along with deburring the flash holes.
Use Sinclair primer pocket uniformer, which will only cut to a certain depth. Never have had a problem.
 
I use a RCBS case prep station and their primer pocket uniformer that will cut each one to a given depth, and no deeper. I do the flash holes on both sides once when new, and I do the primer pockets every firing. After the initial first cut basically each firing is just cleaning out spent powder residue. I have 338 LM cases that have been done 14 times with no problems.

If you had misfires with dented primers I would look to see if you maybe didn't get them seated fully. This can result in the primer moving forward under the strike and not going off.

Jeff
 
as said before I too use the same tool for cleaning and cutting my primer pockets.but have found just as one said that it will sometimes cut out a little more after the first time cutting trueing the primer pocket when fired.I think you just had a bad primer or two in some way or another.but keep us posted to yor findings.
 
interesting bit of info. just got some (100) new winchester .300 win mag brass, and found the primer pocket depth (after problem with one, i used depth mic. to check ALL) on 36 pcs. would not let primer seat the 3 -4 thou. below rim height I like. Trimmed primer pockets with rcbs prep mate and all is well.
 
Couple of things...

(IMO)......

I clean my pockets every reload and check the flash hole for obstructions... I don't uniform unless I reload brass that I buy (or collect at the range from others......:) I'm a 'brass farmer'....). Then I uniform them the first time and never after that.

If the pocket is the correct diameter and it retains the primer properly, in my view, the firing pin isn't going to move the primer if indeed, the pocket is too deep because the firing pin is an impulse hit (like a karate chop), not a push. If the flash hole is open with no impingements, the primer flash off will travel to the charge, even if the primer isn't fully seated against the base of the pocket...

The mechanics of a primer is it's actuated by a sharp strike in a concentrated area, so....

Typical primer indent should be .004-.006. It's hard to measure so I'd go with factory stickout specs on the pin as it relates to the bolt face.....

Of course there is the headspace issue and if the cartridge is seated fully against the bolt, but if it extracts properly, chances are it's sitting correctly against the bolt face in the first place. With my semi-auto's, excessive headspace or COAL will cause erratic cycling in a bolt rifle, the bolt won't close properly or you'll feel resistance when you close it....

I like to hand prime versus machine prime because I can 'feel' the primer being inserted into the pocket and I can 'feel' with my finger if it's seated to the correct depth .002-.004" below the base of the cartridge. You develop the 'fee' as you load. I'm a sit in the living room and prime person.l

If the primer seats with resistance, it probably won't move upon impact, I say probably because anything can happen, this is real life, not a textbook...

I'd suspect firing pin stickout or excessive lubricant on the pin as it rides in the bolt.. I'd be checking stickout with a caliper and depth attachment to insure it's within factory specification and throughly clean the bolt and mechanism, I tend to use brake cleaner myself. It's cheap and removes all the oil. The pin needs just a tiny amount of lubricant, a small drop. Thats it.... and a non coagulating lubricant. Some lubricants get more viscous with age and heat. Read the bottle....

We all like to keep our firearms oiled and looking good, however, the firing mechanism needs lubricant applied sparingly, especially the firing pin and the bore or slot it moves in.....

In as much as I don't know the manufacture of the rifle I have no idea if the actuation spring is light or heavy tension but in the case of Savage, the factory uses a light gage spring so excess lubricant can slow the inertia of the pin strike and cause mis fires.
 
Couple of things...

(IMO)......

If the pocket is the correct diameter and it retains the primer properly, in my view, the firing pin isn't going to move the primer if indeed, the pocket is too deep because the firing pin is an impulse hit (like a karate chop), not a push.


(IMO) I respectfully disagree with this. Because I have seen it with my own eyes, and it has been the subject on this forum before. Other respected reloader have seen it as well. If a primer is not fully seated, even in a pocket of good tollerances, it can move forward durring the strike and not ignite. This problem can also be caused by a rifle with a severe amount of extra headspace. There can be a visable strike on a primer and it never fired from these two seperate issues.

Jeff
 
Jeff...

And as always I respect your experience and opinions.

My first hand experience is limited to what I reload and what functions in my firearms

I started the post with (IMO) which was formed by my own experience and may or may not be valid acoss the board.

I'd still be checking stickout. I've had issues with pin protrusion in firearms before, noteably Rugers but then, everytime I get a Ruger, I wind up doing a whole bunch of fiddling to actually get it to function properly or at least to my liking........

I always take your expertise as gospel, you have light years more experience than I do with this boob-boom stuff......:)
 
Hi everone went shooting today. Went right.to 800 to shoot a 5 shot group. First cartidge was a no fire, the next five were good , them at 800 the next five fired good. Gun was a remington sendaro turned it a 333_300. Brux barrel i put a timney trigger in at .the action wad accurized when 338 was being built. I use the rcbs uniformer to clean and somtimes a littel brass comes out . I will go home tonight and inspect all the no fires so far, and see where the primers are sitting.
 
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