How ofter do u uniform primer pockets.

I pull mine with a Cabelas hammer style puller, I think RCBS has one too. About 15 bucks. The come with a collet assortment for different calibers.

Looks like a hammer with a plastic hollow head (that contains the bullet and powder).......

I'm still leaning toward firing pin stickout.....??
 
I took 5 minutes to look at my nofire rounds today, i dont own a tool to measure the exact deph of the primers but i can say that there appears to be no difference, in dept between these and the ones that fired.
 
I took 5 minutes to look at my nofire rounds today, i dont own a tool to measure the exact deph of the primers but i can say that there appears to be no difference, in dept between these and the ones that fired.

But could you have had some that were not seated all the way to the bottom of the pocket?

Jeff
 
I uniform my primer pockets ,after every shot but i just had a couple of 338 edge rounds not fire. Primers had been struck by firing pin but did not fire. Cci 250 were the primers , what do u think my cultript is the primers or the brass.

I do it one time. I do have a funny looking wire brush that fits in a B&D electric screw driver that I use to clean the residue out of the pocket after firing, and even then I only do it after two or three firings
gary
 
Having tried every primer pocket and flash hole uniforming thing on this planet, I quit after getting equally accurate results with no prepping whatsoever. Several barrels in .308 Win. and 30 caliber magnums all shot 3/4 moa at 1000 or better.

Most often forgotten thing that causes primers to not function too well is a weak firing pin spring. Especially if your firing pin protrusion from the bolt face is less than .055 inch. I'd replace bolt gun firing pin springs every 3 years; 2's better. Doesn't matter how many rounds are fired. When your load starts having elevation spreads way too big, the firing pin's weaker rating is often the culprit.

Primers detonate the biggest and most uniform when they're smacked almost hard enough to drive 'em out the case mouth and all the way out the barrel.

Replace your current spring with one that's 10% stronger than factory specs. Then check the rifle for long range accuracy. Many folks who do this are quite surprised.
 
The way I look at it is that if you have a good strike dent in the primers and the rounds do not go off only two things: Defective or oil contaminated. If a good dent is not present it is a head space issue, whether barrel is (is it loose) not set up properly or over re-sized Brass it yields the same results. Experimenting with too many different brands of primers in the same piece of Brass is just like breaking in a new pair of shoes with another persons foot. If primer pocket diameters are being enlarged from too much pressure then that is what has been chosen.

I do not do anything to my pockets other than debur the flash hole (other than clean) and I am mindful not to jam and cram a primer into its pocket and always let it find its own way home

I
 
I've always only uniformed the pockets once. Then clean them of residue with a pocket brush thereafter. Flash holes get de-burred/uniformed only once also.

But I've seen this caused by grit and/or cold oil inside the bolt/spring/firing pin assy. a few times. People that don't take the pin and spring out of the bolt and clean it seem to see these issues alot. IMO; oiling the fireing pin and spring is bad juju, especially if it's gonna be used in the winter. That oil gets thick and the fireing pin doesn't strike with the force it should. If we're gonna lube the spring and pin, we should do it with a "dry lube". Something that wont thicken when it freezes and wont attract dust.

Just my .02
 
Having tried every primer pocket and flash hole uniforming thing on this planet, I quit after getting equally accurate results with no prepping whatsoever. Several barrels in .308 Win. and 30 caliber magnums all shot 3/4 moa at 1000 or better.

Most often forgotten thing that causes primers to not function too well is a weak firing pin spring. Especially if your firing pin protrusion from the bolt face is less than .055 inch. I'd replace bolt gun firing pin springs every 3 years; 2's better. Doesn't matter how many rounds are fired. When your load starts having elevation spreads way too big, the firing pin's weaker rating is often the culprit.

Primers detonate the biggest and most uniform when they're smacked almost hard enough to drive 'em out the case mouth and all the way out the barrel.

Replace your current spring with one that's 10% stronger than factory specs. Then check the rifle for long range accuracy. Many folks who do this are quite surprised.

I know...Jeff and others....

I still believe it's firing pin stickout. I also understand because it's mechanical in nature and sort of hidden in the bolt mechanism, it's not suspect, but it is.

It's like a woody, it's got to stick out enough to do the required damage to the primer and the actuation spring need to be of sufficient extended tension.....

Time and elimination of suspected components will tell.
 
It is possible to gage the 'dent' in the primer itself, however it takes some doing..... You need to take a small (1/16" or less) diameter ground ball and mike it to be sure of the od.

Measure a like unfired primer for it's overall (height dimension).

Place the ball in the 'dent' and measure the combined height dimension and subtract the height dimension of the primer and subtract the dimension of the ball. What's left is the depth of the 'dent'.

A bit involved but it will give you the depth of the dent.
 
never, unless its lake city brass that had the primers crimped but thats it, and even then I only do it the first time but only to get rid of the crimp
 
never, unless its lake city brass that had the primers crimped but thats it, and even then I only do it the first time but only to get rid of the crimp

My favorite stuff... In 1000 case quantity. I run so much I made a set up for one of the lathes to run the pockets.......
 
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