Bullet Puller
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M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
They still marred some of the bullets despite the marketing video. The inertia puller is the only one that does not mar/deform (I have a bullet protector where the bullet impacts) the bullets. The key is not to make too many mistakes.
Gotcha thanks. I will get the Lyman. Can I ask what the bullet protector is ? I tend to buy reloaded ammo at estate sales for the hard to find brass in a few calibers I have.
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"The key is not to make too many mistakes" great point!
I was given 2 boxes of reloaded 300 win mag ammo from an unnamed person.Since I didn't know him I was not going to trust HIS loads.
That's how I ruined 7 cases.And 2 or 3 are marked a bit but shootable.
I'm liking the Lyman but may invest in the RCBS as well.
I was given 2 boxes of reloaded 300 win mag ammo from an unnamed person.Since I didn't know him I was not going to trust HIS loads.
That's how I ruined 7 cases.And 2 or 3 are marked a bit but shootable.
I'm liking the Lyman but may invest in the RCBS as well.
I have used foamies, pencil eraser, rubber inserts, etc.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
I have & use the RCBS collet, Hornady cam lock, & Frankford Arsenal Wall Mount.
The best for minimal bullet effect is the RCBS, the Hornady is the fastest. The minimal bullet effect is the RCBS, it allows more sensitivity for collet compression. Using the Hornady it is best to position the cam, so it compresses the collet at near the lowest position. Pushing down on the cam is faster & easier than turning the bar/handle on the RCBS.
Using the Frankford Pile Driver is a real adventure -lots of heavy snap, momentum, & noise.
I recently pulled over a total of about 400 .45 Auto copper plate Berry, 185gr HBRN, Berry 230 plated RN. & 200 g Hornady XTP bullets. Bullets did not show collet marks, only minor crimp marks.
The first problem was the small screw & hex nut holding the release latch flew off after about 100 rounds. After searching the bullet room for about 15 minutes I found the hex nut using my shop magnet attached to a 4 ft long handle. I cleaned up everything & applied some blue thread locker.
The next problem was the plastic retainer intended for a 5/8 ID tube broke. I fixed that using a chunk of black vinyl lawn sprinkler tubing pressed into the hole in the Pile Driver (that held the barbed plastic 5/8 tube holder) & secured it with a wire harness & hose clamp. The ID of the vinyl tube is more than the issued 5/8 tube holder.
A 1-gallon plastic jug is used to catch the bullet & powder pulled out of the loaded round. Occasionally the entire round is dumped into the jug. Bouncing bullets & flying powder are contained. Deceleration of bullets passing thru tube should limit pointy bullet damage- if in doubt place foam on bottom of jug.
The Pile Driver is built using light weight plastic, probably to limit momentum forces. Mounting instructions need to be followed, best to use all 8 screws. A 2x6 works real good. I attached the 2X6 to my bench leg using 2 1/2 torx head deck screws.
I wear eye & ear protection. A possibly of primer detonation exists. The lightweight plastic shell holder assembly reduces momentum forces & real bad flying debris should a primer detonation occur. When tightening the 2 Phillps screws under the handle assembly use a driver extension to keep hands clear - a small piece to thin transparent tape holds the Phillip screw onto the driver - used my DeWalt cordless.
Real serious hand injury including finger amputation is possible. Don't let kids near the Pile Driver - there is no trigger to pull - the device slams down hard upon the bottom of the handle down stroke. Lots of intricate internal parts that coordinate to make the Pile Driver work.
Pulling light weight, hard crimped .224 bullets might be a challenge - little momentum. Plastic hammers break. Replacing the light weight aluminum hammer shell holder with a heavy steel press type shell holder increases the possibility of a primer detonation as impact forces are inreased.
Put a slanted blade on this thing & it would make a good guillotine for snakes.
The best for minimal bullet effect is the RCBS, the Hornady is the fastest. The minimal bullet effect is the RCBS, it allows more sensitivity for collet compression. Using the Hornady it is best to position the cam, so it compresses the collet at near the lowest position. Pushing down on the cam is faster & easier than turning the bar/handle on the RCBS.
Using the Frankford Pile Driver is a real adventure -lots of heavy snap, momentum, & noise.
I recently pulled over a total of about 400 .45 Auto copper plate Berry, 185gr HBRN, Berry 230 plated RN. & 200 g Hornady XTP bullets. Bullets did not show collet marks, only minor crimp marks.
The first problem was the small screw & hex nut holding the release latch flew off after about 100 rounds. After searching the bullet room for about 15 minutes I found the hex nut using my shop magnet attached to a 4 ft long handle. I cleaned up everything & applied some blue thread locker.
The next problem was the plastic retainer intended for a 5/8 ID tube broke. I fixed that using a chunk of black vinyl lawn sprinkler tubing pressed into the hole in the Pile Driver (that held the barbed plastic 5/8 tube holder) & secured it with a wire harness & hose clamp. The ID of the vinyl tube is more than the issued 5/8 tube holder.
A 1-gallon plastic jug is used to catch the bullet & powder pulled out of the loaded round. Occasionally the entire round is dumped into the jug. Bouncing bullets & flying powder are contained. Deceleration of bullets passing thru tube should limit pointy bullet damage- if in doubt place foam on bottom of jug.
The Pile Driver is built using light weight plastic, probably to limit momentum forces. Mounting instructions need to be followed, best to use all 8 screws. A 2x6 works real good. I attached the 2X6 to my bench leg using 2 1/2 torx head deck screws.
I wear eye & ear protection. A possibly of primer detonation exists. The lightweight plastic shell holder assembly reduces momentum forces & real bad flying debris should a primer detonation occur. When tightening the 2 Phillps screws under the handle assembly use a driver extension to keep hands clear - a small piece to thin transparent tape holds the Phillip screw onto the driver - used my DeWalt cordless.
Real serious hand injury including finger amputation is possible. Don't let kids near the Pile Driver - there is no trigger to pull - the device slams down hard upon the bottom of the handle down stroke. Lots of intricate internal parts that coordinate to make the Pile Driver work.
Pulling light weight, hard crimped .224 bullets might be a challenge - little momentum. Plastic hammers break. Replacing the light weight aluminum hammer shell holder with a heavy steel press type shell holder increases the possibility of a primer detonation as impact forces are inreased.
Put a slanted blade on this thing & it would make a good guillotine for snakes.
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victor3ranger
Well-Known Member
I bought one of those and I chunked that stupid thing in the trash
Thanks. That rules those out. My OAL is 4.42". Looks like it's a collect puller.
M1A1ABRAMS asked about the bullet protector in the bottom of the bullet hammer style puller.
"Can I ask what the bullet protector is ?"
In my RCBS hammer style bullet puller the bullet protector is a fairly dense foam.It works really well as I have not deformed any bullets in the many years I have been using it including lead tip bullets.
"Can I ask what the bullet protector is ?"
In my RCBS hammer style bullet puller the bullet protector is a fairly dense foam.It works really well as I have not deformed any bullets in the many years I have been using it including lead tip bullets.
victor3ranger
Well-Known Member
I always put cotton balls or jam a piece of dense foam in the bottom so it doesn't mess up the tip of the bullets
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
Not many were happy with the results on this thread. Possibly yours is better ? Or you found a technique that works well for you ? It looked slick in their video. Kind of reminded me of a brake flaring tool to hold the bullet.
Have RCBS Collet for years, Kinetic, grip and pull and bought the Hornady Cam when it came out. Gave away the Kinetic and Grip and Pull. Now only use RCBS if I don't have the right collet for the Hornady. Set up properly the Hornady is fast and will not mark the bullets. Setting the puller forthe correct grip pressure and a little polishing of the collets on both the RCBS and Hornady goes a real long way to getting rid of any marking. Smooth and polish the very edge of the collet where they contact the bullet.
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip. I already have the RCBS. But I need to get some collects. And I am going to get the Lyman.
