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<blockquote data-quote="jon.henry755" data-source="post: 601385" data-attributes="member: 29115"><p>Hi bryanvin,</p><p>Most TAC owners have found it absolutely necessary to own two targets to cover the bases between field points and broadheads. </p><p></p><p>After almost 3,000 shots and testing just about everything I could think of that needed testing, I still have the same two targets and they are both in excellent shape. Although I would rate the Spyder Web as the single best, all around field point target in the industry, just be aware that it can be on the expensive side. If you're going to be shooting at longer distances, such as 70 to 100 yards, you will need a larger target for safety to insure your shots don't miss the target. For this, the Spyder Web 2.0 would be the minimum size I would recommend.</p><p></p><p>I use and have great luck with the Morrell Bone Collector Outdoor Range Target. It's a bag style target that is about 29" x 30" in size and is designed to stop 400 + fps arrows. Arrow removal is so simple even a child can pull the arrows. The cost is much cheaper than the Spyder Web and since it's much larger, it works well for distance shooting. </p><p></p><p>Now for the bad news, there are only two broadhead targets that I'm aware of that are actually designed to stop broadhead arrows moving at over 400 fps. One is the Block Black and the other is any of the Rhinehart series targets. I personnally use the Rhinehart Rhino Brute XL target because of its larger size and the manufactures warranty that states that if you can shoot it out in a year or less, anywhere, so that it won't stop your arrows, they will replace it at no cost to the owner. </p><p></p><p>That said, since all broadhead targets designed to stop a broadhead arrow use friction against the arrow shaft to do so, they are all very difficult to remove your arrows. What I've learned to do, is to shoot 3 or 4 arrows at different spots on the target and then turn the target on its back, stand on it with my feet and then pull out my arrows using two hands and pulling straight upwards.</p><p>Once the arrows begin to move and break the friction bond, they come out the rest of the way easily. The whole secret is in initially breaking the friction bond around the shaft. </p><p></p><p>I've heard the Block Black is even more difficult to remove arrows which was one of the reasons why I opted for the Rhinehart target.</p><p></p><p>Welcome aboard and good luck!</p><p></p><p>Regards,</p><p></p><p>Jon</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jon.henry755, post: 601385, member: 29115"] Hi bryanvin, Most TAC owners have found it absolutely necessary to own two targets to cover the bases between field points and broadheads. After almost 3,000 shots and testing just about everything I could think of that needed testing, I still have the same two targets and they are both in excellent shape. Although I would rate the Spyder Web as the single best, all around field point target in the industry, just be aware that it can be on the expensive side. If you're going to be shooting at longer distances, such as 70 to 100 yards, you will need a larger target for safety to insure your shots don't miss the target. For this, the Spyder Web 2.0 would be the minimum size I would recommend. I use and have great luck with the Morrell Bone Collector Outdoor Range Target. It's a bag style target that is about 29" x 30" in size and is designed to stop 400 + fps arrows. Arrow removal is so simple even a child can pull the arrows. The cost is much cheaper than the Spyder Web and since it's much larger, it works well for distance shooting. Now for the bad news, there are only two broadhead targets that I'm aware of that are actually designed to stop broadhead arrows moving at over 400 fps. One is the Block Black and the other is any of the Rhinehart series targets. I personnally use the Rhinehart Rhino Brute XL target because of its larger size and the manufactures warranty that states that if you can shoot it out in a year or less, anywhere, so that it won't stop your arrows, they will replace it at no cost to the owner. That said, since all broadhead targets designed to stop a broadhead arrow use friction against the arrow shaft to do so, they are all very difficult to remove your arrows. What I've learned to do, is to shoot 3 or 4 arrows at different spots on the target and then turn the target on its back, stand on it with my feet and then pull out my arrows using two hands and pulling straight upwards. Once the arrows begin to move and break the friction bond, they come out the rest of the way easily. The whole secret is in initially breaking the friction bond around the shaft. I've heard the Block Black is even more difficult to remove arrows which was one of the reasons why I opted for the Rhinehart target. Welcome aboard and good luck! Regards, Jon [/QUOTE]
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