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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Which Lathe?
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 1308851" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>I disagree that a 3 phase machine is worthless at resale time. I know you already know this but for the new guys shopping there is two ways to make 3 phase power in a small shop. For light duty use the cheap VFD Inverter for a couple hundred dollars works okay but derates the hp and torque from the motor. The more serious guys can get an American Rotary Digital Phase Converter. I got the 15 horse model for $1500 and it will run my 7.5 horse lathe and a 3 hp mill at the same time without derating the motors. On the lathe we use a VFD with 3 phase input and output to get us infinitely variable speeds. If we slow the motor with the VFD it does derate it a little. We were told to never go below 50% but haven't touched it in years. I guess the training wheels are off now. The mill has a variable speed head so it's used as is. Lot's of guys around here using the rotary phase converters. Some are even home made. My electrician said he could build one for about $150. They are using them to power some fairly large CNC machines and big old industrial wood working equipment as well as some pretty big old lathes. </p><p> </p><p>Single phase machines are or can be prone to chattering in the surface finishes from the HZ cycles transmitting the pulses through the motor all the way through the gear boxes. Then is shows up in the finishes. The single phase Grizzly machines are very prone to this and it is tough to cure if you are affected. </p><p> </p><p>As far as metric threads my machine has one mark on the thread dial that is for metric so we can drop the half nut anytime we want. We routinely thread to a solid stopping point on tennons and muzzle brakes. I hate the look of a thread relief on those parts. Whenever I see it I just cringe. On thin barrels with small thread brakes it doesn't leave much metal at all right where the tip is weakest. </p><p> </p><p>As far as the foot brake we rarely use it and I would never do instant reverse even if I could. It just doesn't sound like a good idea. I would be interested is seeing someone do it though but not on my machines. </p><p> </p><p>Here is one of ours back when we started out and we used to take pictures of our work. No time for that now. We do this with a DRO set to count down to zero where you want to stop. You can do the same thing with a dial indicator mounted on the carriage somewhere. We just stop and back out at the same time. With practice we can stop it within .001 or tighter even at 80 rpm. It's especially handy when single point cutting action threads. Makes them look super clean and very professional. </p><p></p><p><u><u><u><u><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/np9abxj" target="_blank"><img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/853/9abx.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></u></u></u></u></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 1308851, member: 1290"] I disagree that a 3 phase machine is worthless at resale time. I know you already know this but for the new guys shopping there is two ways to make 3 phase power in a small shop. For light duty use the cheap VFD Inverter for a couple hundred dollars works okay but derates the hp and torque from the motor. The more serious guys can get an American Rotary Digital Phase Converter. I got the 15 horse model for $1500 and it will run my 7.5 horse lathe and a 3 hp mill at the same time without derating the motors. On the lathe we use a VFD with 3 phase input and output to get us infinitely variable speeds. If we slow the motor with the VFD it does derate it a little. We were told to never go below 50% but haven't touched it in years. I guess the training wheels are off now. The mill has a variable speed head so it's used as is. Lot's of guys around here using the rotary phase converters. Some are even home made. My electrician said he could build one for about $150. They are using them to power some fairly large CNC machines and big old industrial wood working equipment as well as some pretty big old lathes. Single phase machines are or can be prone to chattering in the surface finishes from the HZ cycles transmitting the pulses through the motor all the way through the gear boxes. Then is shows up in the finishes. The single phase Grizzly machines are very prone to this and it is tough to cure if you are affected. As far as metric threads my machine has one mark on the thread dial that is for metric so we can drop the half nut anytime we want. We routinely thread to a solid stopping point on tennons and muzzle brakes. I hate the look of a thread relief on those parts. Whenever I see it I just cringe. On thin barrels with small thread brakes it doesn't leave much metal at all right where the tip is weakest. As far as the foot brake we rarely use it and I would never do instant reverse even if I could. It just doesn't sound like a good idea. I would be interested is seeing someone do it though but not on my machines. Here is one of ours back when we started out and we used to take pictures of our work. No time for that now. We do this with a DRO set to count down to zero where you want to stop. You can do the same thing with a dial indicator mounted on the carriage somewhere. We just stop and back out at the same time. With practice we can stop it within .001 or tighter even at 80 rpm. It's especially handy when single point cutting action threads. Makes them look super clean and very professional. [U][U][U][U][URL="https://imageshack.com/i/np9abxj"][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/853/9abx.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/U][/U][/U][/U] [/QUOTE]
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