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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
What to do with 280 Rem mountain rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="Koda_" data-source="post: 2656505" data-attributes="member: 121268"><p>this is correct, keep doing this... (Zero on a cold barrel). All I get out of my thin Rem barrel is about 2-3 shots before the zero starts moving...</p><p></p><p>I have an older Rem 700 bought in early 90s, same thing. What I learned is back then Remingtons were not bedded or floated. To make matters worse they used to mill a bump in the forearm to intentionally touch the barrel on the end to reduce harmonics (a cheap way to get around bedding and floating iirc).</p><p></p><p>The first step to revive this old workhorse is check the barrel crown for dings and have a smith turn anything down. Then have a smith bed and float the barrel. When I did this mine went from 3in groups to under 2moa, with factory ammo. Then, with certain factory ammo I found a brand that shot 1.5" moa and called it good for hunting out to 300yds.</p><p>After bedding and floating if you want to go further then inspect your chamber for a carbon ring and have a smith remove that. After that inspect the barrel throat for firecracking, and pitting in the lands... that may or may not affect the accuracy your after but if after all this your still not happy the only thing you can do is have a smith replace the barrel with a new one and it will be a tack driver.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Koda_, post: 2656505, member: 121268"] this is correct, keep doing this... (Zero on a cold barrel). All I get out of my thin Rem barrel is about 2-3 shots before the zero starts moving... I have an older Rem 700 bought in early 90s, same thing. What I learned is back then Remingtons were not bedded or floated. To make matters worse they used to mill a bump in the forearm to intentionally touch the barrel on the end to reduce harmonics (a cheap way to get around bedding and floating iirc). The first step to revive this old workhorse is check the barrel crown for dings and have a smith turn anything down. Then have a smith bed and float the barrel. When I did this mine went from 3in groups to under 2moa, with factory ammo. Then, with certain factory ammo I found a brand that shot 1.5" moa and called it good for hunting out to 300yds. After bedding and floating if you want to go further then inspect your chamber for a carbon ring and have a smith remove that. After that inspect the barrel throat for firecracking, and pitting in the lands... that may or may not affect the accuracy your after but if after all this your still not happy the only thing you can do is have a smith replace the barrel with a new one and it will be a tack driver. [/QUOTE]
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What to do with 280 Rem mountain rifle
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