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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
Wanting to try a personal/custom build (Rem/age)
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<blockquote data-quote="BallisticsGuy" data-source="post: 1231862" data-attributes="member: 96226"><p>IMHO, and don't take this wrong it's just opinion, you're crossing the streams a bit. Hunting guns are best light and fast. They give up some things in order to be easy to carry. Target shooting to 1000m+ is totally fine and a .260 hunting gun will 100% do it but, you gotta watch that barrel heat or you'll lose barrel life fast. </p><p></p><p>That opinion given, I have to admit that one of the comps I do regularly (hunter gun high power metallic silhouette) is specifically done using hunting weight rifles (<8.5lbs) with thin barrels to do 5-10 shots rapid fire (< 30 seconds between shots) out to 500m, offhand. The way I and many of my peers get around barrel heat is mostly to keep the powder capacities low. Most of us use BR cases or .222RM cases or .300sav cases as the parent cases because of their reduced capacity from something like a .308Win case... They've got just barely enough powder to down the 500m rams. </p><p></p><p>One of my students I took to a long range precision rifle match 2 weeks ago with a cheapo package gun he got at Big-5 and a cheapo blister pack scope. He had to shoot the match as a requirement for me to take him hunting (a hard lesson in marksmanship and gun handling while hiking). I handloaded his ammo from one of my standard recipes without ever seeing the gun and on his 2nd shot after a 200m zero'ing I had him nailing the 800m gong (2moa target) shot after shot. Modern guns can do more than anyone gives them credit for... especially drain your wallet. In the match he wasn't so successful because his gun wasn't well configured for the sport and he was a newb and I wasn't allowed to help. He did hit 9 of 50 targets. Not bad. </p><p></p><p>If you want to target shoot, get in to hand loading. 3x the match ammo for the same money and it's not expensive to get into or hard to learn to do. Unfortunately you will not achieve 1/3 the cost for the same amount of ammo. Not how it works in the end. You just get more boolitz.</p><p></p><p>For a hunter gun, stick with the factory trigger IMHO. No need to buy a timney if you're not shooting for score. For a stock, get it into a proper hunters stock. When target shooting, remember it's a hunting rifle and to expect hunting rifle performance and recoil. </p><p></p><p>You know how a screwdriver handle makes an ok ad-hoc hammer once in a while? It works but it's far from ideal. Well, that's how building a gun to do hunting with and then doing any kind of target work with it. Yeah it works and probably well enough but it's not going to be a hammer if it starts out as a screwdriver. My hunter weight match rifle is purpose built to deal with being used as a target gun from stock design, action selection, barrel taper and material, trigger, etc... It only looks like a hunting rifle but it is in fact a purpose built target rifle. </p><p></p><p>You're on the right track learning first. Above all, build the gun you want for what you want it to be used for. I'm a firm believer in using a fly rod only for fly fishin'. There's nothing saying you can't hunt and target shoot, just make sure it's built for how you'll shoot it and you'll love it all of your days.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BallisticsGuy, post: 1231862, member: 96226"] IMHO, and don't take this wrong it's just opinion, you're crossing the streams a bit. Hunting guns are best light and fast. They give up some things in order to be easy to carry. Target shooting to 1000m+ is totally fine and a .260 hunting gun will 100% do it but, you gotta watch that barrel heat or you'll lose barrel life fast. That opinion given, I have to admit that one of the comps I do regularly (hunter gun high power metallic silhouette) is specifically done using hunting weight rifles (<8.5lbs) with thin barrels to do 5-10 shots rapid fire (< 30 seconds between shots) out to 500m, offhand. The way I and many of my peers get around barrel heat is mostly to keep the powder capacities low. Most of us use BR cases or .222RM cases or .300sav cases as the parent cases because of their reduced capacity from something like a .308Win case... They've got just barely enough powder to down the 500m rams. One of my students I took to a long range precision rifle match 2 weeks ago with a cheapo package gun he got at Big-5 and a cheapo blister pack scope. He had to shoot the match as a requirement for me to take him hunting (a hard lesson in marksmanship and gun handling while hiking). I handloaded his ammo from one of my standard recipes without ever seeing the gun and on his 2nd shot after a 200m zero'ing I had him nailing the 800m gong (2moa target) shot after shot. Modern guns can do more than anyone gives them credit for... especially drain your wallet. In the match he wasn't so successful because his gun wasn't well configured for the sport and he was a newb and I wasn't allowed to help. He did hit 9 of 50 targets. Not bad. If you want to target shoot, get in to hand loading. 3x the match ammo for the same money and it's not expensive to get into or hard to learn to do. Unfortunately you will not achieve 1/3 the cost for the same amount of ammo. Not how it works in the end. You just get more boolitz. For a hunter gun, stick with the factory trigger IMHO. No need to buy a timney if you're not shooting for score. For a stock, get it into a proper hunters stock. When target shooting, remember it's a hunting rifle and to expect hunting rifle performance and recoil. You know how a screwdriver handle makes an ok ad-hoc hammer once in a while? It works but it's far from ideal. Well, that's how building a gun to do hunting with and then doing any kind of target work with it. Yeah it works and probably well enough but it's not going to be a hammer if it starts out as a screwdriver. My hunter weight match rifle is purpose built to deal with being used as a target gun from stock design, action selection, barrel taper and material, trigger, etc... It only looks like a hunting rifle but it is in fact a purpose built target rifle. You're on the right track learning first. Above all, build the gun you want for what you want it to be used for. I'm a firm believer in using a fly rod only for fly fishin'. There's nothing saying you can't hunt and target shoot, just make sure it's built for how you'll shoot it and you'll love it all of your days. [/QUOTE]
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