Wanting to try a personal/custom build (Rem/age)

[adam.WI]

So I'm getting out of the Army after 10 years, five of which were with 2nd Ranger Battalion. My wife gave me the go ahead to drop some money on my next rifle as a commemorative piece...oddly enough I have fought terrorist but still need her permission. I have a huge interest in doing things myself and would like some opinions. I have been researching the Rem/age barrels and would like to know how visable it is to purchase a trued Remington action with a pinned recoil lug, Rem/age barrel with nut, gauges and misc tools, HS precision stock and DBM with a Timney trigger and piece it together.

I'm very mechanically inclined and aware that it may cost just as much as some of the lower cost custom rifles, but I would like the satisfaction of doing it my self. My main question lies with what other items would I need? Is this actually as simple as it appears? Would this project require any machining to get the final product?

I have thick skin, so if I'm way off base just let me know that I'm an idiot and will continue to look for a custom builder. Thanks in advance!

 

[FearNoWind]

Adam, first off, Thanks for Your Service.

I don't think you're way off base at all.
The trued Remington action would, IMO, be a good idea if you're an accuracy fanatic. I am; I'd do that. It wold also make it much easier to get the final product you probably want.
You'll need a good barrel vise (I'd prefer aluminum to prevent those nasty scratches on barrels) the best drill press you can find and the necessary wrench set.
Pinning the recoil lug isn't terribly difficult, but you've got to take your time (measure twice, drill once - good quality drill press is essential) to ensure that your set up is perfectly vertical and perfectly centered on the center line of the action. I use a machinist's square and a drill bit as short as possible. . You only get one chance to get it right. You'll want a recoil lug at least .250 IMO. I wouldn't use anything thinner.
I haven't built a rifle on the Remage platform but, like you, it intrigues me. Perhaps one day when my rich uncle arrives with a gift I'll be able to do that.
I don't see any machining requirement for the Remage platform:
Rebarrel a Remington 700 without a lathe: McGowen's Remage barrel conversion | Rifleshooter.com
As I see it, fitting the barrel to the action is the most challenging phase. You'll want a barrel with squarely cut threats and a smooth even shoulder for the recoil lug to mate with. The depth of the shoulder relative to the face of the barrel will determine how thick your recoil lug can be. If I recall correctly, the Rem. action thread is 1 1/6 x 16 tpi. Using a short bolt with that pitch to fit the recoil lug in place,marking the area where the bolt head aligns with the top of the recoil lug and then grinding off that portion of the bolt head to provide access to a larger portion of the head of the recoil lug is (IMO) a good way to keep things squared when drilling for the pin.
I've worked a lot of Timmney's and they're very good.
Stocks are a personal choice for style. Whether you want a straight comb, something with an adjustable cheek rest, etc. is something I'd never try to make recommendations about. Depends a great deal on how you intend to use the rifle.
"Stocky's" has some very good stocks at very good prices. HS Precision also makes very fine stuff - don't overlook the McMillan and other customs.
Best of luck to ya in taking on this challenge.
Wishing you good shootin' gun) - - - - - - - - - (X)

 

[adam.WI]

I'm glad that it doesn't look as though I'm way off. It really does seem to easy to be true. I have a line on a truer 700 with a pinned lug so I should be ahead of the game. Thanks for the insight!

 

[BallisticsGuy]

It's easy as pie even for a first timer. There's a couple special tools but they're not expensive. For a barrel vise I use these (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900061?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-fragola-performance-systems&gclid=CPjBr6qmis8CFYKHfgodQggIPw) jaws in a regular bench vise. Wrap the barrel in masking tape at the contact points and no marring at all and they're cheap and multi-purpose. Works best on a barrel with as little taper as possible. That and an action wrench and headspace gauges and you're set. Remove the extractor and ejector from the bolt before setting headspace. Ejector applies pressure to the case head, not helpful. Extractor often breaks since many HS gauges are made of steel, not brass. It's been a problem for me in the past. Easier to remove them.

What you haven't told us is the most important thing. What'cha going to use it for generally speaking? Hunting rifle, F-class target rifle, plinker, PRS match rifle, etc...?

The first one I did was based on a mauser 94 that I made into a .45ACP and took me about 15 minutes. My next was a Win70 that I converted to switch barrel. Took about 15 minutes.

What parts you use is up to you. You could do a Savage, a proper remage or a Winage or whatever you want nowadays. Remage and Savage barrels are the easiest to get.

For what stuff to put on it: for a barrel, well I've got a special place in my arsenal for Black Hole Weaponry barrels. They're total hammers and inexpensive for a drop in. Timney makes great triggers for remington but a remmy factory trigger isn't that bad. You might find it's good enough for you, try before you buy. Stocks are best set up specifically for what you want to do with the gun so there, really spend some time getting the right thing.

 

[adam.WI]

This will be a moderate weight hunting rifle with the primary goal of deer hunting out to around 500-600 and target shooting beyond. I plan to do a Remington short action and chamber it in 260 Remington. I want the ability to get factory match grade ammo for playing at the range and seeing what it is capable of. You guys are a lot of help. I have a little research ahead of me still but am getting a good idea of what I need. Keep the help coming.

 

[BallisticsGuy]

IMHO, and don't take this wrong it's just opinion, you're crossing the streams a bit. Hunting guns are best light and fast. They give up some things in order to be easy to carry. Target shooting to 1000m+ is totally fine and a .260 hunting gun will 100% do it but, you gotta watch that barrel heat or you'll lose barrel life fast.

That opinion given, I have to admit that one of the comps I do regularly (hunter gun high power metallic silhouette) is specifically done using hunting weight rifles (<8.5lbs) with thin barrels to do 5-10 shots rapid fire (< 30 seconds between shots) out to 500m, offhand. The way I and many of my peers get around barrel heat is mostly to keep the powder capacities low. Most of us use BR cases or .222RM cases or .300sav cases as the parent cases because of their reduced capacity from something like a .308Win case... They've got just barely enough powder to down the 500m rams.

One of my students I took to a long range precision rifle match 2 weeks ago with a cheapo package gun he got at Big-5 and a cheapo blister pack scope. He had to shoot the match as a requirement for me to take him hunting (a hard lesson in marksmanship and gun handling while hiking). I handloaded his ammo from one of my standard recipes without ever seeing the gun and on his 2nd shot after a 200m zero'ing I had him nailing the 800m gong (2moa target) shot after shot. Modern guns can do more than anyone gives them credit for... especially drain your wallet. In the match he wasn't so successful because his gun wasn't well configured for the sport and he was a newb and I wasn't allowed to help. He did hit 9 of 50 targets. Not bad.

If you want to target shoot, get in to hand loading. 3x the match ammo for the same money and it's not expensive to get into or hard to learn to do. Unfortunately you will not achieve 1/3 the cost for the same amount of ammo. Not how it works in the end. You just get more boolitz.

For a hunter gun, stick with the factory trigger IMHO. No need to buy a timney if you're not shooting for score. For a stock, get it into a proper hunters stock. When target shooting, remember it's a hunting rifle and to expect hunting rifle performance and recoil.

You know how a screwdriver handle makes an ok ad-hoc hammer once in a while? It works but it's far from ideal. Well, that's how building a gun to do hunting with and then doing any kind of target work with it. Yeah it works and probably well enough but it's not going to be a hammer if it starts out as a screwdriver. My hunter weight match rifle is purpose built to deal with being used as a target gun from stock design, action selection, barrel taper and material, trigger, etc... It only looks like a hunting rifle but it is in fact a purpose built target rifle.

You're on the right track learning first. Above all, build the gun you want for what you want it to be used for. I'm a firm believer in using a fly rod only for fly fishin'. There's nothing saying you can't hunt and target shoot, just make sure it's built for how you'll shoot it and you'll love it all of your days.

 

[bootsking]

Call Northlander Shooting Supply. You can order an excellent Criterion barrel, barrel nut, barrel wrench, and action wrench from them. I have done many Savages, and last year did the Remage on a Stiller action. Put the barrel on first, as the scope base will interfere with the fit of the action wrench (on the one I use). Go to the Savage shooters website and you can find many discussions on the how-to. It will take longer to install the trigger and scope base than the barrel, nothing to it.

 

[adam.WI]

Ballistics guy, thanks for the input. I agree with fast but not not always light. My goal is a lighter version of the Remington sendero. This maybe heavier than some like but I prefer some extra weight so long as it is well balanced, besides, I am still young and dumb enough to carry it. I am aware that I will sacrife on the range not going heavy but the time at the range will not be competitive and only recreational. Handloading will be in the future but not at this time. Again, you make some great points. I'm not sure if you are familiar with the Savage LRH in 300 win mag, but that is the contour I'm looking for but will have it fluted to shave some weight.

 

[Barrelnut]

I'm glad that it doesn't look as though I'm way off. It really does seem to easy to be true. I have a line on a truer 700 with a pinned lug so I should be ahead of the game. Thanks for the insight!

You have to be careful here... A "trued" Remington action will more than likely have had the threads recut. After that a barrel, pre-threaded for a Remage build may not fit.

I think Bootsking's method above is a good one. Get a custom action like a Stiller to start with. Will be a much nicer action and the threads should be standard spec and nice and square.

 

[FEENIX]

You have to be careful here... A "trued" Remington action will more than likely have had the threads recut. After that a barrel, pre-threaded for a Remage build may not fit.

I think Bootsking's method above is a good one. Get a custom action like a Stiller to start with. Will be a much nicer action and the threads should be standard spec and nice and square.

Another option is the Actions - BigHorn ArmsBigHorn Arms.

I got my BHA LA SR2 (700 custom compatible with floating bolt) for $1K.

 

[adam.WI]

You have to be careful here... A "trued" Remington action will more than likely have had the threads recut. After that a barrel, pre-threaded for a Remage build may not fit.

I think Bootsking's method above is a good one. Get a custom action like a Stiller to start with. Will be a much nicer action and the threads should be standard spec and nice and square.

I have been looking at the custom actions. I was unsure of the initial cost but the more I look the more I like the idea. The TAC 30 caught my eye.

 

[WildRose]

I'm glad that it doesn't look as though I'm way off. It really does seem to easy to be true. I have a line on a truer 700 with a pinned lug so I should be ahead of the game. Thanks for the insight!

Pacific Tool and Gauge sells them pretty reasonably.

 

[FEENIX]

Pacific Tool and Gauge sells them pretty reasonably.

FYI, http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/remington-pt-g-tenon-threads-153592/

 

[WildRose]

IMHO, and don't take this wrong it's just opinion, you're crossing the streams a bit. Hunting guns are best light and fast. They give up some things in order to be easy to carry. Target shooting to 1000m+ is totally fine and a .260 hunting gun will 100% do it but, you gotta watch that barrel heat or you'll lose barrel life fast.

That opinion given, I have to admit that one of the comps I do regularly (hunter gun high power metallic silhouette) is specifically done using hunting weight rifles (<8.5lbs) with thin barrels to do 5-10 shots rapid fire (< 30 seconds between shots) out to 500m, offhand. The way I and many of my peers get around barrel heat is mostly to keep the powder capacities low. Most of us use BR cases or .222RM cases or .300sav cases as the parent cases because of their reduced capacity from something like a .308Win case... They've got just barely enough powder to down the 500m rams.

One of my students I took to a long range precision rifle match 2 weeks ago with a cheapo package gun he got at Big-5 and a cheapo blister pack scope. He had to shoot the match as a requirement for me to take him hunting (a hard lesson in marksmanship and gun handling while hiking). I handloaded his ammo from one of my standard recipes without ever seeing the gun and on his 2nd shot after a 200m zero'ing I had him nailing the 800m gong (2moa target) shot after shot. Modern guns can do more than anyone gives them credit for... especially drain your wallet. In the match he wasn't so successful because his gun wasn't well configured for the sport and he was a newb and I wasn't allowed to help. He did hit 9 of 50 targets. Not bad.

If you want to target shoot, get in to hand loading. 3x the match ammo for the same money and it's not expensive to get into or hard to learn to do. Unfortunately you will not achieve 1/3 the cost for the same amount of ammo. Not how it works in the end. You just get more boolitz.

For a hunter gun, stick with the factory trigger IMHO. No need to buy a timney if you're not shooting for score. For a stock, get it into a proper hunters stock. When target shooting, remember it's a hunting rifle and to expect hunting rifle performance and recoil.

You know how a screwdriver handle makes an ok ad-hoc hammer once in a while? It works but it's far from ideal. Well, that's how building a gun to do hunting with and then doing any kind of target work with it. Yeah it works and probably well enough but it's not going to be a hammer if it starts out as a screwdriver. My hunter weight match rifle is purpose built to deal with being used as a target gun from stock design, action selection, barrel taper and material, trigger, etc... It only looks like a hunting rifle but it is in fact a purpose built target rifle.

You're on the right track learning first. Above all, build the gun you want for what you want it to be used for. I'm a firm believer in using a fly rod only for fly fishin'. There's nothing saying you can't hunt and target shoot, just make sure it's built for how you'll shoot it and you'll love it all of your days.

The weight of the rig can vary greatly depending on how and where you hunt.

If you are driving to within a mile of your stand or blind and then setting up basically like you are at the range it doesn't matter if the rig is six, ten, 20 or whatever pounds.

If you're going on a back country sheep hunt where every ounce counts it can make a great deal of difference.

After 10 years as a Ranger I'm sure he's well aware of how much rifle he can carry on a given hunt. If he's like most of us though in another ten or twenty years those heavy rigs start to get much heavier every year.gun)